New Roll Bar(CUSTOM)
 

ive been lookin at picking up a 4 point for my car, and i was looking at the jegs kits and ive looked at custom bars so i figured why not try it. i know my way around a pipe bender and a welder, and i also got my father whos been building cars and trucks for 35 years. we went and picked up some 1 3/4 x .120 mild steel tube and we went at it. here are some pics. it took us about 45 minutes to come up with the main hoop how we liked it. and ofcoarse its a lot easier with the interior out lol


plans
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1126091235.jpg

starting to bend
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1126091220.jpg

first bend
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1126091231.jpg

almost finished product
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...126091533a.jpg

pic 2
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1126091533.jpg

and yes, the bar looks like its sitting really far from the roof line, its really not as bad as it looks. ill get better pics tommaro from the inside.

just a hoop?

what are you attaching it to? are you making support plates?

definitely looks low, and i'd do a 6 point if you are building it for anything besides looks.

I admire you "goin for it" but I would have done at least a 6 pt and made it NHRA legal.

and it is "course" not "coarse"

nope, we just got the main hoop done yesterday while waiting for thanksgivin diner, the rest should be done today

were welding it to the same place the jegs one mounts to for the main hoop, then the bars that go back are going to the sear seatbelt area
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0005_large.jpg

im goin to my shop now, ill snap some pics of what its really like

its not done yet, im going at least 4 point.

juss took a walk to my shop and snapped some better pics of how far from the roof it is. keep in mind the headliner drops the roofline about an inch too..
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1127091213.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1127091214.jpg

I would think about making the hoop wider. If you ever want to make it a 6 point those doorbars will be too close to your body

hmm... something to think about. i mean worse comes to worse well make another.

Yeah, and make sure you mount the hoop and down bars to proper plate steel.

i know. my dads been building bumpers and bars for his lifted trucks for years.

I would make the hoop as close to the roof as possible. I can just get my hand between the hoop and the headliner and it does block a fair amount of visablity.

yeah it will kill your rear view mirror too if its too low. you might be able to "space" it up with plates, and that will help strengthen the mounts. as pointed out its a little narrow for door bars. are you going to do a cross bar in the main hoop like that pic? don't do a removable one, its pointless if you want to race it. by the way, my 6 point came in today, i could take some measurements off of it if you are interested. same setup with the rear bars in the speakers. let me know.

What size pipe is that? it looks like its coming together nicely for a cuatom job. One more thing lol, were the rear floor pans replaced?

i wondered the same thing

when building a cage or bar think of how the forces will transfer thru the car and bar. You want all your mounting plates to be in 2 planes. I would not want the rear of my bar mounted to the seat belt bracket it is only held in with like 10 spot welds. Just because somebody sells a bolt in bar or cage doesnt mean it is a well thought out item.
http://jalopnik.com/5390934/mustang-...over-tire-wall

It'd be pretty cool if anyone had specs to a roll cage they built or have seen built.... It'd give barney and who ever else a starting point on a roll cage or a guideline

:shock: holy ****! yeah the wolf bars have very large plates welded to the bars. i bought the bolt in design so they have matching plates that go on the under body. i am definitely having it welded after its fully installed. they also attach to the body in the rear, not the seat belt spot. that is an excellent point you bring up, the area he plans to mount the rear bar is in no way designed for a roll bar to mount to.

edit: no way tryin to rip you up barney, its really cool that you and your dad are making a bar. just don't want you getting really hurt out there. 8-)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...7-23-09077.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...7-23-09080.jpg Here are a couple of pics for the cage i did in my car over the summer.hope they help. There is a thread in the road race section with more pics.

yeah im gunna do a cross bar on the main hoop. we worked on it for 2 hours today and got the main parts done. all thats left to do tommaro is crossbar, paint and mount. heres some more pics
down bar tacked into place...
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...1127091356.jpg

welding all the tacks.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...127091455a.jpg

dont take this the wrong way. the rear bars wont do anything in a crash they are bent in too many places already. a bend in a bar is an aready failled piece of tubing. the desighn of the rear bar will not keep the main hoop from moving forward or backward and cutting your head off or squishing it like a grape. in any kind of impact. Your mounting plates need to be larger I forget the # of square inches. I think nhra is 6x6 plate min and scca will let you go up to 10x10 It looks like your stick welding it most sanctioning bodies want to see mig or tig. I would stop and do some research. then start over just chalk it up to a learning experiance

all the welds for the moch up were done with stick. as you might be able to see in the back of some of the pics we have an assortment of welders in my garage. and hey, we've only got a few hours on this thing, and that was with some trial and error. it would be no problem to make another:wink:

yea, good effort but from those shots, those welds don't look too well. Can you take a close up pic of the welds?