how the hell do you get the alternator out of the LS1!?!?
 

also, the wire that fits into the alternator like a plug snapped. it was SUPER tight... in the past its been very loose idk what could have changed the wire length, it really makes no sense, but it snapped while jimmying the alternator for removal

i have all the bolts out but this damn thing just wont fit out. i cant find any angle!!!!!!

got it out but my god that was impossible... anyone know the name of that plug and wire? i need to go get a new one :(

how did you get it out?

1 part shaking 1 part shifting 3 parts anger and 6 parts luck

found the answers about the wire here
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...ing-issue.html

says that that wire connects to the PCM, which then communicates to the gauges..

my question is then, do i NEED to hook that up? or will my car run no problem without it for now?

it woudl SUCK to have to wait for that wire in to get the car running. this is my daily driver and I need to drive to TEXAS! (im stuck in florida now!) I was hoping to leave last monday, now working on car today was hoping to leave tomorrow morning.

try your local auto parts store. if that fails head to your local dealer.

this is kinda it. http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=979

but i still cant get any info on if i NEED it. or if its just an output for dash lights

no idea what year car we are talking about, but you mean this right?

ACDELCO Part # PT1136
http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpag...DUS/PT1136.jpg

probably has 1 brown wire coming out of it? that is the exciter lead - turns the alt on. yes you need it or gm would not put it there.

go out and get one should not be hard to find.

Thanks Bonzo. Thats correct! (2000 LS1 btw)
How does something so small as a speaker wire turn on something so big as an alternator!?

Also, just because something is there, doesn't mean it's needed to operate the car. It could have powered a dashboard safety light.

it's just a trigger lead. very low amps. notice the like 8g wire on the BAT term. that is the charging lead.

they used to have another red one (~14g) out of that same connector, it was for voltage sensing. seems they don't need it with the newer alternators.

NAPA carries them

autozone has that plug to. i have an extra one in my tool box lol

all done. that was a nightmare!!!!

who decided to put the alternator UNDER the power steering pump anyway!?!?!?

gosh! i hope this one lasts fellas

i ended up getting it from Carquest aka Central Auto Parts for 20 bucks! autozone and others wanted 26-29.95

just wait till the power steering pump leaks and blows the alternator out. i blame people and their aftermarket oversized alts, the stock one is fine and slides out no problem. the aftermarket huge ones are the pita's

^ thats happened twice. but i use the stock alternator, so your theory on what/who to blame is false...

also i just went out and now my battery is draining AGAIN.

Yesterday I swapped the Alternator Exciter and put in a brand new Alternator. Slow Charged a 3 day old battery back to full health overnight... And last night when we tested everything - it was gravy. Took my car a moment or two to realize it had a new alternator, and then wammo everything was running BEAUTIFULLY. Running the gauges showed about 15, and now they are back down to 10. and my check gauges light is on. It really makes NO SENSE.

What could it be!?

New battery, alternator, and alternator exciter. Was running sexy last night. Wth?

you did not replace "alternator exciter". You replaced a connector. And with that, you made sure you spliced that to the right one, correct? I know those replacement pigtails might come with more than one lead.

check all your fuses.

yeah the replacement came with 4 pigtails, but obviously i checked and doublechecked to make sure it was the right one, and everything was crimped and connected extra carefully and correctly. i can see those connections still in tact from in the hood.

like i mentioned, everything was working perfect on the first start attempt with the halfdead battery last night. 3 days old, but it was still halfdead from the bad alternator taking it for a 30 minute drive. and it took it right up to 15 on the start. so we let it slow charge for about 12 hours.

this morning is a different story. could it be that the battery is already beyond repair? could a short somewhere be causing this? would a short in a headunit have any possible effect? (even when headunit is off there is no change though)

short in the head unit? unplug it.

could be lots of things. bad battery, a high parasitic power draw somewhere. check your fuses.

Well I dont have a tool on hand to check the fuses, but I know its not the battery. After a couple trial and error starts, monitoring my gauges... one time it decided to charge up. It must be the wires leading to/from the exciter connector.

although they were hooked up well/properly, I fear because they are unprotected in a very hot area, that that could be it???

hopefully i can check fuses tonight.

pull the fuses and look at them... anything aftermarket on the car like stereo sytem, lighting...?

12v test lights are like $10 and anyone that works on cars should have one.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/testlight4.gif

Yup, that happened on my '00 Z28. The inside of the alternator wasn't very pretty looking lol

An undercharged battery can kill a brand new alternator, no doubt. The excitor is built into the Ls1's instrument panel.

If the bulb is dead for the dash indicator you won't get a signal. Bad connection in the cluster can do it too. The voltage travels through the bulb, then goes to the alternator. With the key on, engine off if the battery light is not on in the dash you have a bad connection or dead bulb.