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-   -   Paint 1992 Heritage Z/28 (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55837)

Northstar01 04-29-2011 12:01 AM

Paint 1992 Heritage Z/28
 
Hey guys,

I'm Kevin. I was a regular posting member up until like a year ago. I had the black 88 Monte SS.

I need some advice from you guys. You are the go to guys. My son who is also on the boards has a 1992 Heritage z/28 that needs paint. It's a T-Tops car. I just got a quote of 3 grand for paint and to fix a number of small imperfections(scratches,rust spots). That would be paint and 2 coats of clear plus fixing the small imperfections. Is that a decent price?

If any of you guys paint and need the work hit me back.

Thanks in advance.


Kevin

86ta-adf 04-29-2011 08:50 AM

It depends on how bad the imperfections are and where they are. And if it's a complete color change some shops charge more. Also depends on the color because some paint is more expensive than others.

Rich189 04-29-2011 07:08 PM

Like posted above it depends... also I would not be happy with only 2 coats of clear I would want 4. I would pm hardcorez28 on the boards here he does fantastic work (he owns RPM customs)

Northstar01 04-29-2011 10:19 PM

They are really small imperfections. Probably the biggest the size of a fingernail. It's not a color change. Original Heritage colors. White/Red stripes. The guy told 500.00 for a gallon of paint just to start. I'll PM RPM customs.

Thanks for replying.

Anti_Rice_Guy 04-29-2011 10:22 PM

Paul does great work, and so does Summit Rod & Custom.

Northstar01 04-29-2011 10:34 PM

I just PM'd him. My sent messages still say 0. Is that right?

MyFirstZ 04-30-2011 10:14 AM

my private messages do that to

HardcoreZ28 04-30-2011 08:29 PM

Just replied to your message

SRC 05-04-2011 06:38 AM

Kevin
Depending on what your expectations are for the final product you can make a decision on what level of clear finishing you want. For example in a standard production shop two coats of medium solids clear will layout with similar appearance of a factory clear, IE similar levels of orange peal. In most production shops full body wet sanding is avoided due to the increase in labor and time. Now assuming the paint booth and painter runs into no dirt, dust type issues, runs etc they can deliver a car without wet sanding and you will have a clean finish.

In comparison most custom shops will approach clear layout in a different manor, one being the application of two coats of clear, wet sanding the car and then an application of one final coat followed by wet sanding and buffing. This provides a flatter clear finish. This step can also be repeated several times to produce even better results, again depending on what we are working with and what the budget is. In our case we always wet sand every project so the game plan begins with enough clear to wet sand and leave behind enough material.

If your sons goal is to have a clean factory appearing finish I would recommend that you have at least three coats of a high solids clear applied with one final wet sanding phase at the end. This will be the most cost effective approach with above average results. If there are rust repairs and other minor imperfections I would also review how they are going to be repaired with whomever you choose. Not knowing exactly what your project looks like now I can not comment on the price you have been quoted, however keep in mind that your final choices with regards to product type are an important one and in most cases increasing a budget by only a few hundred dollars can greatly increase the quality and longevity of the finish.

Northstar01 05-28-2011 10:58 PM

Thanks everyone for your replies.


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