Manual Transmission Power Lose
 

Let me first start off by saying I am sorry if this is a stupid question. Now with that said. I just got done building my 383 stroker. Its complete forged rotating assembly Brand new internal balance. 10.3:1 compression, I bought a Trick Flow 490 HP Super 23 Top-End Engine Kit (TFS-K314-490-440). I followed what they said they used for a intake(Victor Jr) and carb(holley 750 DP) it states you will have 490 Hp. I know you cant believe that but I should be close to that. Now I have Hayes Flywheel and PowerGrip Clutch. My rear end is a built 10 bolt that has been in the 10's with another car. My trans is a stock t5 that came with the car. I know the factory never put t5 behind 350.

Now here my question. I took the car to the track friday for the first time ever. I ran 13.8 at 103 with a 2.091 60ft, I was pretty upset figured i be in the high 11's to mid 12's. Now I know there a 18% Power lost to the wheels with a manual trans which should leave me around 400hp to wheels. Now I ran those number thru and engine calucator and it says i am only make 280-290 hp to the wheels. Can a stock t5 hold the motor back that much? Please help

I am far from experienced at the track (I've only ran my car 4 times), but your 60' seems off. I had a 2.08 60' in my Trans Am which is basically stock. I have a 305 with headers, exhaust and some suspension work.

I ended up running a 15.4 at 87.4 mph.

Maybe how your launching your car or wheelspin?

That is a big part of your problem

Your MPH is only good for a low 13 / high 12 second pass with good traction.. There is another problem somewhere. You are not making the power you were expecting.

No power loss in manual. Power loss is in the Auto. The only reason you run faster times in a Auto is because you take the human error out of it equation.

It takes power to move anything be it manual, automatic or even direct drive. Auto transmissions will show lower numbers on a chassis dyno mainly because of the torque converter but also because there is more rotating mass after the flywheel.

Mph is wayyy low. Another 10mph might net you what you want.

I took better look at the car today, My carb is running rich, and exhaust was a little lose, timing cover was had a small leak. I was running street tires friday. I was just going by what trick flow said and horsepower cal. Also my timing is at 34

Yeah, I would see what you can get out of some tuning.

sounds like your in the same boat as me... I have a 383 very similar to yours top end wise super victor heads and victor junior intake with an AED (modified holley) 750, 10bolt rear with 4.10's and stock T5 nwc w/t-tops so I weigh a bit more than you. I ran a 12.4 @ 112 spinning hard with a 1.9 60ft. I don't think your car is 500hp probably closer to 425 to the flywheel, mine engine dynoed at 498 but I know all the specifics of the motor with a big cam in it. Good rule of thumb for every .1 you can save in your 60ft equates to about twice that on the top end. so if you were to run a 1.6 60ft you would shave roughly a second off your time, sounds like you have no traction and suspension is your issue.

Those calculators don't take enough into consideration so don't look too far into them for your car to run 11's you would need to be about 10-15mph faster, you have a low 13 high 12sec car there, awesome for the street

His mph is terrible and its a good indication of the motor's performance. I don't know the entire setup though.

you defintly need to work on some things. I had almost identical setup in my ol' iroc and car went 11.60's NA and 10.20 on the button. I have seen that TFS setup make 500hp on a engine dyno on a 355 w/ a hp950 carb!!!

i'm not real big on holleys (but the new ones are supposed to be alot better).. I've had real good luck with HP carbs
1/4 mile times can really fluctuate on a lot of factors... obviously you 60' sucks, get that down to a 1.5-1.6 and you'll see that 13.8 drop down to a 13.2-13.4.

here's a couple of ?'s
1.what rpm are you leaving @? (you should leave in the cam's power range)
2.what rpm are you shifting @?
3.what gear ratio in rear? (should be runnin 3:73 or 4:10 max)
4.who assembled the motor? you?
5.did you degree the cam in, or just set it straight up?
6.distributor locked out w/a start/retard box?or mechanical or vaccuum advance?
7.what plugs & gap? ( I have seen guys lose 40hp on the dyno w/wrong plugs/gap)
8.octane of fuel? ( i hope 93 or better)
9.who installed rockers & set valve lash? (if too tight you'll lose hp)
10. did you check for vacuum leaks (common for intake gskt leaking, you should retorque after warmed up)
11. Holley carb... (how old? blown powervalve?)

if you need any help or want any suggestions, pm me for my #.

good luck w/ the car!!!

I am not sure what rpm I am leaving at. I am shifting at 5500-6000 I started at setting shift light at 5500 and than changed it thru out the night. I have 4.10 gears.me and this guy norm. He works for gm and races. The cam was just put in with the two dots lined up. I have msd 85551 distributor. I have ngk plugs and gap to what trick flow had in the packet that came with the top end kit. I am running 93. And norm installed the rockers and set valve lash. I rechecked my intake yesterday nothing was lose. Holley carb is fresh rebuilt don't know how old it is

try a pass with decent tires and see what it does