LT1 Build Suggestions?
 

Hey I am taking the motor out this week and looking for suggestions (or at least a look over on what I plan to build). If any part is overkill or not good enough; please let me know. Plan on keeping it stock stroke and just cleaning the cylinder walls .030" over. I have a Vortech V1 T-Trim supercharger I plan on freshening up and changing the bearings to safely turn up to 61k RPM. Custom crank pulley and the smallest supercharger pulley up top to get around 10-12 PSI with water/meth. Motor should sit right around 9-9.2:1 depending on what we find out with the piston to deck height.


Ohio Crank crankshaft - 43503480PM (http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevysb_cranks.html)

Ohio Crank h-beam rods - H5700 (http://www.ohiocrank.com/hbeam_rods.html)

Diamond Pistons -22cc D shape - 126-11420 (http://www.texas-speed.com/p-2584-di...-included.aspx)

I am aware I am leaving the rings out, don't know what the best ring is to run on a supercharged motor. I'm going to see what cam Lloyd Elliot suggests, I know a lower lobe seperation might not be best for a centrifugal supercharger but I really love the sound of the 232/240 .578/.574 110 LSA.

LE1 Heads (mainly interested in just having the heads freshened up but for $1,300 with a cam and another $160 for shipping both ways I can't beat it) http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=51

I'm not concerned about rockers, lifters, pushrods, gaskets, injectors or any of that other stuff. I've built a few motors and have a descent understanding (I like to at least think this lol).



Not looking to build a daily driver or a road warrior but I'd enjoy having something fun to go to work or drive around in the summer (and go to the track with). Throughout the entire winter I will be buying stuff piece by piece or whatever money I get in OT snow plowing I'll put directly towards the build.

Ohio is a good budget option and Diamond makes some nice pistons. Aside from the motor, any palns for the trans/rear? My t56 took a dump with only bolt-ons and you 10 bolt will laugh at you with all of that power...

Edit: I also would consider LE2 over LE1. For the couple hundred extra you will spend, you will be a lot happier with the results. Do it right the first time...

Leaving it all stock until it breaks. I know the 10 bolt wouldn't hold it and that's why I have no intention of regearing. I'm not trying to dump every penny I have into it at once, I'd rather blow the rear on the road rather than go another 2 grand out of pocket up front on the build.

Keep the feedback coming. (I was considering the LE2s but didn't see much of a benefit since I'm not relying on head flow to make power).

Heads make power for the most part, so a less flowing head will require more flow and since you are limited by the little blower, you will make less power.

I would spend the money on the highest flowing heads you can, you may see less boost, but will make more power. Boost is just a number of how much resistance you have in the system. H rods are way overkill, I would just get a simple I rod.

Keep the stock crank, clean it up, and save the money there.

And a cam for chop is def not the cam you want for a blower, so pick what you want, or settle for a half ass build.

I will throw my two cents in here. The rotating assembly parts look fine but make sure the pistons are 2618 material. Not mandatory but 4032 stuff can be a bit brittle.

For the heads, might as well have them max ported. You can use stock stuff but honestly, the more CFM you flow, the less boost you need to run to make more power.

Choosing a cam for sound is the wrong way to go about things....period. I loved the way my CC306 sounded but it was a mismatched cam for my old setup. Go with the one recommended.

As mentioned, its a bit silly to put together a combo like this and not think about the rear end or trans. Car won't be much fun when you break either but I won't preach any further. Make sure the entire combo is matched well to your setup. A mismatched combo will simply perform poorly and when considering boost, its the details that will matter.

Max ported heads actually arent a good idea because it is a porous metal and coolant can seep into the cyls. (ask me how i know ;) ) but the idea behind the max flow that you can get for less restriction is definitely a good idea

Max port and use a quality porter this time!

To keep the volocity up during "normal driving" GTP did my heads basically as a stage 2 intake port, had the intake port runners matched to the heads/ Gaskets, then reworked the bowls, and did his stage 3 exhaust. Also went with the 5 angle, backcut and swirl valves. His stage 3 would have reshaping the runners, as opposed to just opening then up a bit.

Idea being, going to big on the intake side could hurt volocity / throttle responce when in the lower RPMs without boost.

These are stock heads. I've seen aftermarket heads make big gains over what I have, but back in the day when I did my first heads/cam I had GTP do the stage 2 for N/A, There weren't allot of options other then LT4s and Canfields so later when I added the blower I just sent them back for additional work.