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LT1 intake removal
Hey guys. I'm going to be removing my intake manifold soon to get it powdercoated. Anyone have any tips on how to remove it? Never done it before. Any special tools that I might have to pick up?
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You should take it to a shop, its tricky. But since meh, here.
http://shbox.com/ci/intake_bolts.jpg Go buy an ARP or similar intake bolt set for a SBC and use them instead of the stock studs on re install, unless you plan on running the alt up top with the crazy ass bracket, or the emissions stuff. I assume you do not have EGR so just be careful not to break the oil pressure sender on the rear china wall. Otherwise, you will prob need a rubber mallet or similar to smack the intake loose, that or pull the TB and pry it up. The front two on the driver side are a pain with the throttle cable bracket, so remove that if you want. As far as special tools, you will need a lisle 3/8 and 5/16 fuel line disconnect tool. Read quick cause my posts like to disappear outside of the BH. |
You can just take the 4 fuel rail bolts out and lay it off to the side. Be mindful of the injectors and their o-rings. Really isn't a bad job though. Unbolt all the things.
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while you have the intake off you may want to dimple the back of the block where the intake sits, they say the silicone adheres better to a rough surface rather than a smooth one
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I do not remember the number off hand, I just got a set of 12 pt ARP intake bolts for a SBC. Dunno if vortec heads/intake differ.
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Ok. I'm gonna give them a call before I order them just to make sure I get the right ones
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Well they won't work with a stock LT1, so I don't know how much summit will help.
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arent you in auto shop? i had the intake on my LT1 off twice with out a problem. you can do it easily.
also why get it powdercoated? just to say its powdercoated? safe yourself the money and paint it yourself. |
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Well, you could use this time to remove the fuel schrader valve while the rail is off, then attach the nitrous fuel line and noid.
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I took mine off a few months back, I left the fuel rail attached. Pretty straightforward tho. X2 on being careful of the oil pressure sender. I took it apart to simply reseal the ends/replace gaskets. When reinstalling, it's a great idea to find something to use in a few of the head bolt holes (like dowels, headless bolts) so you can drop the intake straight down...this way there isn't any sliding it to line the bolt holes up. If you do, odds are the silicone bead at the china wall will leak. Not a bad job at all though. I did my timing cover seals at the same time, and I feel that was a bit more difficult. Go for it :)
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