Tuners Come In: Stalled-LS1 Trans Tables
 

My 2000 bolt-on car was dyno tuned by Matt at TTP back in 2010. I have the tune file saved on a friend's laptop via HPTuners.
While overhauling my current project, I added a Yank SS3600 converter. The car has not been re-tuned (Ior driven beyond a mile) since then. In a few months, I will have the car properly dyno tuned again. However, in the interim I'd like to be able to drive the car on short trips between home and exhaust shop/painter/friend's garage with lift/etc.

I have available to me a HPTuners file from a 1998 Bolt-On + SS3600 car, tuned by The Bishop here on our board, in his purple beast of a Camaro. Our modifications are similar, however I've heard there are differences between the 1998 Transmission Tables and those of 2000 model years.
Would it be safe to copy his transmission tables (from his 1998 ss3600 Bolt On car) into my own tune file (2000 ss3600 Bolt On car)?

Being that this isn't my forte, I'll step aside and page Creeper and The Bishop to chime in with further details and questions, for better perspective and results.

As far as driving, if your only change is the converter, you should be fine. If you plan on doing an spirited driving I would advise against it.

Can you elaborate please?

*edit*
Can't I "Just Drive" with the stall and factory trans tables, and "be fine"? Can you comment on the advantages of swapping Bishops tuned ss3600 1998 trans tables into my like-modded 2000 model year? Do these advantages exist, or am I *better off* driving the my existing (factory converter) tune?

I'm hesitant to just copy > paste all the trans tables and flash it knowing nothing of auto trans tuning (left that life behind many years ago when I went t56) but typically I won't copy > paste anything related to airflow/fuel at all. Even with all trans tables copied, I'm not sure if the computer references any other tables in the tune for shift calculations which may have differences.

Maybe for the stalling issue I could try just bumping the idle up until it can get to a real tuner? It may not even be the converter causing the stalling issues. There have been other things changed.

Typically does a higher stall "slip" more and make it less likely to stall, as there is almost no load at idle compared to stock? Or is that likely to cause stalling

I've run cars without the torque converter attaches to diagnose noises. Its a pain to keep them running without any load so I can definitely see it causing issues.

Just drive it and don't nail it.

One thing I should have mentioned yesterday - Make sure you add a trans cooler! The higher stall speed generates more heat in around-town driving.

Also, now that I'm thinking about it, you need to change the 'TCC Duty Cycle' in 'Auto TCC' tables under Transmission. There's a maximum and minimum table, set the maximum to 100 all cells, and the minimum to 95 in all the cells.

It's been a while, so I'm a bit rusty.

Just go out and pin it to make sure you break the converter in correctly.

Leave the tune alone until you want to get it tuned and it will be set correctly.

:nod: