Power Window fun times.
 

A couple of days ago, my passenger side power window decided that it only wanted to roll up in 2 inch increments.

Yesterday, I tackled the problem. Thought I'd take it apart first and see if I can fix it before getting new parts for it. After removing the motor and taking the end cap off, the commutator looked pretty dirty. Cleaned it, the motor housing and the brushes, re-lubed the bushings, and soldered the thermal switch shut.

Odd thing is that they're the original motors from 1998 (The rivets were all original/intact with no access holes drilled) and they had the somewhat newer style white end caps.

Also found a rattle that had been driving me crazy; turns out that one of the three rivets that hold the window regulator assembly never went through the metal bracket it's supposed to anchor. Drilled it out and installed a nut and bolt.

Previous owner had installed tweeters on the doors. Well, almost. Only one of them was actually hooked up. Removed them. Found out that the door speakers are not original. Debating on changing out the original radio for one that has bluetooth/audio jack but so far I can't find one that isn't ricer-boy neon. The audio is still better without the add-on tweeters, though.

Noticed mine are slowing down. I'm right behind you.

Just changed my drivers side and have one for the passenger side when it decides to stop working. Didn't find any treasures but 2 weeks later, my cooling fans decided to stop working.

Theres a kit to put an audio jack on the stock radio

This is tech?

Well, the windows motors are powered by electricity and part of the car, so yes?

Any links to it? I have one of those FM transmitters and it's a POS.

every time I roll my windows up at the track in the staging lanes i pray it closes lmao

What brand did you go with for replacement? I had used the Pep Boy ones years ago because they come with a warranty. Its definitely on my long list for the Firebird.

Not sure if you were asking me but I went AC Delco. I'm not confident in any brand at this point and per a recommendation from Sweetbmxrider, I may calculate the $/up-down for fun (sobs into hands).

I took the end cap off the motor, cleaned the brushes and commutator, and re-lubed it. Only modification was to disable the thermal cutoff strip (cleaned both ends then soldered it shut) as when I checked for resistance it was in the 2-3 ohm range. After soldering, was <1 ohm. Window is noticeably quicker and less noisy. Also put a bit of spray white lithium in the window tracks.

You should have taken pics of the process along the way, would have been a great little write up. Instead, it reads like a journal entry :lol:

Day 273: Dear diary, my drivers side window motor refuses to lift the window completely. It mocks me. It rained yesterday and the sleeve of my sweatshirt became damp from the drips coming from my leaking t-tops. The honda 2000 in the other lane put up his windows so fast I thought they would surely damage the convertible top. He must have a 100k under those door panels for them to move that fast. One day I will find a window motor that lasts more than a season. I hate my car. I love my car.

Ok, so now you have to come here and clean the coffee out of my keyboard.

:rofl::rofl:

Mic Drop!

Visualize the lift, Brian. I'm serious You got to listen to me, man.

I owe you nothing! :rofl:

I couldn't resist. Better if read in a solemn voice.

I visualized me changing the motor and being thankful I didn't need to drill anything since it was done years prior.

Im glad my current fbody has crank windows. Way back when i had the 02 ws6 the first window motor left me at 19,000 miles. I feel like i beat the system this time