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Beater Support
1993 Ford Tauras
3.0 v6 auto 112k miles before the snowstorm the car rode fine and even had a little bounce to the rear suspension...i would take it over speed bumps at over 25mph w/o a problem now(first time i've driven it since the snowstorm) it rides like the rear wheels are firmly connected to the chassis...every single little bump is felt hardcore but only when it hits the rear wheels...any ideas? |
jack up one side at a time(by the back of the rocker panel), and check the travel of each wheel. Those raer setups are independant so most likely only one side is causing the problem. Then go from there to check the shock(or struts) and aarm bushings) From when i used to work at the shop i remember a lot or tarus and sables would come in with a clunking noise by the back wheels, alot of the time it was like a swaybar end link that would fail, not sure if it was a swaybar but i remember the link resembles that type of link, look for that maybe, hope that helps some
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problem is its a ford :wink:
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smokingss what am i looking for to tell whether my problem is teh shock, strut, or bushing? if its the sway bar do u mean a broken sway bar? thanks! |
I know the Taurus has problems with the front suspension wearing out. Maybe the rear shocks are frozen solid!
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if its a broken rear link, its a long bolt with a nut on the end, Â*there will be bushings with a thin metal cylinder in between. if i remember correctly they just called it a rear link(?). that long bolt rusts and breaks and then the back bangs around hard, we used to have a car come in at least every 2 weeks with that. anyway if thats not it then look at the struts and arms, Â*if you jack the car up and down(one side at a time) and the wheel doesnt move up or down with or without weight on it, then you can look into bushing and struts(im pretty sure those have a rear strut setup) Â*you can remove the strut assembly(keep track of where bolts go and where everything lined up before removal) then with the wheel off and with the strut out, see if the arms move freely, if so, then the strut is the cause, if not, then check the bushings. Â*now remember, its been a few years since ive worked on these cars so it may not be that simple and i am just giving you an approximate idea of how to look for the problem, there may be certain things involved with the removal that i can not remember so be careful doing this, look at what attaches to what and basically its common sense.
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- Justin |
Like the other guy said, it's a Ford, what else do you expect?
Have you driven a Ford lately? No mine's in the shop again Ford, where quality is job one. Too though that we skipped right to job 10: get this thing out of here before they notice all the defects Ford, built for the way you live. Assuming you're terminally ill, and will be dead in a month.:twisted:done in bold so it's easier to read |
If you drove it in the snow jack it up and make sure there isn't any frozen snow stuck on the actual piston of the strut (shock?) especially if it has a dust cover over it. Or if you can't see it grab a hair dryer and heat it for a couple minutes and see if it frees up. Had it happen before if the struts have pretty good mileage on them they extend more and leave the piston exposed. Also look for ice in your rear springs. Apart from that look for the broken parts mentioned above. There isn't alot to a rear suspension. Should be pretty easy to find if you go over it well.
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ya there probably frozen
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