opinions on my next set of mods...
 

ok, i have some $ saved and am having a hard time deciding which way to go, so i need some opinions.
**please do not add anything to my list, i am basically deciding between 2-3 things.

MY CURRENT MOD'S
pacesetter longtubes, with ory.
borla 3 inch y-pipe back with no plate.
slp lid/ k&n filter.
hurst shifter with lou's short stick.
spohn adjustable panhard bar and lca's
spohn strut tower brace.
h&R springs on bilstein hd's
3.73's in the stock 10bolt

IN MY GARAGE AWAITING INSTALL:
G2 subframe connectors
relocation brackets
SPEC stage 3 clutch with steel flywheel
02 slave cyllender
.
.
.

Now, the 3 things im trying to decide between are......

1. heads and cam......heads will be patriot ls6 stage 2 and i havent decided on the cam yet.

2. finish the bolt on's (t-body, maf, etc.) and add a 100-150 wet shot.

3. buy the 12bolt now, so i dont have to deal with any downtime in the future.

i run on bfg g-force drag radials, the car is a SEMI daily driver, and i plan on racing weekly to every other week. and it has also had ATLEAST one rebuild of the 10-bolt already.

lemme hear what you all think.

to assist you best... what do YOU want out of the car?

With the heads n cam or bolt on's + nitrous BOTH will kill that rear....

May just want to do the rear now :(

the car will eventually have all of it...so my plans arent the issue,

i guess im asking what you would all do first reliability (!10bolt), bolt on's, or internals

the 10-bolt'll blow up again soon w/ 3.73s and sticky tires

make your own boxed lcas...MUCH cheaper

i would say just buy the 12 bolt now to prevent further headaches

12 bolt then... to eliminate down time

lca's = already on the car.

theroetically, the 12-bolt would also give me good gains, with another gear change and the ability to launch harder. correct?

:nod: that is correct

lol rebuilding 10 bolts is sooo fun though :roll:

No reason to make MORE power if you cannot take advantage of it. Since the 10 bolt hasnt even held up for me, id say spend the money on a 12 bolt...you can use it more effectively now, and especially once you begin to make H/C power.

i say ya 12 bolt it....

looks like a concensus....i was leanin towards doin the rear, just needed to be told to not let the money burn a hole in my pocket just yet...
4.10s
or
:drive: 4.30's

it is my professional opinion that you go with the 12 bolt

why not just strap a wet kit to it, and have the 10 bolt decide when it wants to go 8)

Holy crap 4.3?! A little steep no?

well........it is a six speed lol

Manual transmission kill rears, driveshafts, and universal joints everywhere, automatics only do it if you've got mad hook :) . Many a 10-bolts live behind traction limited 400+hp f-bodies and GM trusts them enough to give it a warrenty on all those LS1 powered vehicles...
I still say 12-bolt if you plan on running sticky tires more often than not.

4.30s = :headbang:

4.56s = :headbang::headbang::headbang::headbang:

lets not push it tooo far.......i still wanna be able to take it crusing....8)

Only in todays age can you have "4.30 gears", and "still wana take it crusing" in the same thread.

I say stick with the 4:10's. 4:30's are beginning to push it a little. If you wanna be able to cruise to the shore or something it will be a bitch...4:56 will be going in the nova, but I dont plan on it being much of a street car :twisted:

with the 3.73's i am only turning 2k rpm at 80 in 6th gear........how bad could it possibly be?

on the other hand.....racing, first would be useless, and probably second

they would be next to useless. youd waste alot of time shifting 1st + 2nd. Its up to you, ive just seen problems runnin more than 4:10's on m6's.