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Originally Posted by camzcruizer
yo whats up its chris from rutgers- anyway i got kyb shocks and struts not sure if i have the model your lookin for but i would be careful what you do with the subframe connectors unless your lookin to run like 11's you do not need them there a painn to get installed, add needless weight to your car, and i doubt they will fix your creaking problem any old muscle car is gonna have its creaks and groans
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SFCs help every uni-body eliminate creaks and chassis twist. Not as good as a roll cage but combined the 2 and the car is torsionally stronger than the majority of full frame cars. First mod on ANY uni-body is SFCs no matter what power plant.
Now how much power are you putting down 84HOtransam? I'd do the torque arm last, I'd also get LCARBS inplace of the lakewood traction arm setup which induses binding (big no no).
Also if you're serious about drag racing you'll want the biggest rear sway bar you can fit even if it is 20lbs on the car it'll drop your 60' by more then enough to compensate for the added weight.
As for the adjustable stuff, get a panhard bar to center the rear, then either get adjustable LCAs or an adjustable torque arm to get the pinion angle optimal.
Don't go pro-kit springs if you're serious about the strip car thing. Get straight weight springs, pro-kit is a heavy progressive spring ment for street/daily driven cars.
Also, don't get the heavy blobal west steering brace. It's overkill, get the lightest one or have a shop make one for you for like $30.
As for the STB, don't do it. Again, that's for cars that need the front end chassis stiffness which drag cars do not. I've got one and it's increases my cars interior noise. I only have it in the car because it stiffens up the front end by a LOT and I love to through my car around corners.