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Old 03-17-2005, 09:54 PM   #2
Injuneer
 
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: East Brunswick, NJ
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You've got the right idea on the panhard rod. When you pull the stocker out, set the new one to the same length. When you install the new one, check both sides to insure the body is centered correctly side-to-side over the rear axle assembly. Measure from the inner edge of the wheel or tire to a structural point like a subframe box. Adjust the bar on the car, as required (that assumes it is "double adjustable" and can be turned on the car to change its length. If it is "single adjustable" you will have to pull one end off to adjust the length).

On the LCA's, if they are adjustable, I would strongly recommend you VERY CAREFULLY adjust them so they are both exactly the same length as the stock arms you removed. There is no reason to adjust them, unless you LCA relocation brackets don't have the holes arranged in the correct arc and/or your car is seriously lowerd. Even then, you're talking fractions of an inch. If there is some evidence your rear axle is not centered in the wheel openings front-to-back, then you might consider adjusting the length to center them. But it is critical to make sure that both arms end up exactly the same length, or the axle will be set at an angle to the body and you will have alignment/thrust angle problems.

Once you have everything else done, check the pinion angle on the adjustable torque arm. For a realtively stock/bolt on setup, you might only want -1deg. For a big HP setup, with poly ends, you might want to go as high as -3deg (maybe only at the track, limiting it to -2deg on the street). Rod ends and a big power setup, -1.5 to -2.0 deg.
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1994 Formula - 381ci / 300-shot N2O / TH400 / Gear Vendor OD / Strange 12-bolt 4.11 - 11.5@117 on straight motor
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