[Batman]

Tr 224 cam is very good, so is the LS1 hotcam from GMPP. Personally I would go with something in the 230/230 range if I was doing it again. Makes real good power on a stock block and is very liveable and idles smoothly. Keep in mind any cam swap you are most likely going to need to do valvesprings. I got mine done at Rapid Motorsports in Reading, PA. Mike (the owner) put it in in about 4 hours and had it tuned by early afternoon. When all is said and done you are probably going to spend between $700 and $1000 for the whole swap, plus tuning. I can also say that Rapid's tuning is top shelf, with just my GM Hotcam he pulled an extra 22RWH just from tuning. I ended up with 380 at the wheels from a $400 cam kit. I'd give him a call with your mods and he will custom grind a cam for you. Tuning also isn't cheap, normally it runs between $300 and $500 depending on the tuner. I'd stay away from the nitrous unless you use it sparingly an that will also determine what kind of cam you want. It is better to have some extra exhaust duration for nitrous, help relive the pressure in the cylinders. I'd also ditch the shorty headers and get some longtubes, with a cam the shorty's aren't going to give you the full potential. Now adays it isn't unlikely to see most cam only cars making 375-400+ to the wheels and be very driveable. A good quality poted Throttlebody is a good idea, I think thunder racing does them for around $175? As for the MAF keep the stocker or upgrade to the Z06 MAF and get it tuned with the car. I'm running 11's on a stock MAF with no issues (was cam only BTW). Biggest things are decide about the nitrous first and make sure you upgrade the valvesprings and seats while you are in there.