Quote:
Originally Posted by GREZ28
I must be making you crazy
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Your too late! Wife's been doing it for 24 years!
Well for the pan, you'll need to pull the engine or drop the K-member to install it, and you'll looking at a $350 price tag for the Pan and pickup tube, then you need gaskets too! so you might just use the port above the oil filter. Not the best place, but it will work somewhat.
For the water temp: You need to check that the sending unit is the same size as the port in the head or you may need to purchase an adapter. The port is on the pass head between the back two spark plugs. I think the plug will fit a 3/8" or 1/2" drive so a short extension and breaker bar will remove it. It's usually in there pretty good so you should use a quality tools. Craftsman etc., I’ve broken a few of the cheap-o rackets and extension trying to pull these type of plugs out.
The sending unit should have teflon on the threads already. If not, go to a parts store and but a tube and coat the threads lightly. When you pull the plug out, allot of antifreeze will be pouring out! Your going to make a mess if your not quick.
Once you have the two sending units installed, you have two options here. Either way you opt’d for using mechanics wire to fish the lines makes the job easier.
A) There is a harness on the Drivers side by the brake bboster you can try to run the wires thru, I never had any luck doing this on my car. ( for my boost gauge and
linelock I used option B: )
B) Locate a good spot somewhere near where the brake peddle passes thru the firewall and drill a hole for the wires. Make sure you double and triple check before you start drilling. Then install a grommet and run the wire through.
C) Pull the EMC from the mount (2 10MM bolts) and swing it out of the way. You’ll see a large rubber grommet where the wires pass from the engine compartment thru the firewall and into the passenger compartment. You’ll then need to remove the passenger side kickplate (4-5 Phillips screws). It’s part of the sill plate that hold the carpet down and the entire panel should pull out. Using a piece of 3-4’ mechanics wire push it from the engine side thru the grommet. The wire will come out under the dash. Sometimes this can be a PITA to find it. If all else fails ther is room on the grommet to make another hole, run the sires thru the put some sealant around the hole you made. Then remove the covers under the dash and route the wires over to the Driver's side ( i think the dash is covers at 8MM bolts?)(i used this method for my oil pressure and temp gauges that are mounted in my console). Nice because no drilling required.
Starting in the engine compartment push the mechanics wire thru. Once you have the mechanics wire thru, secure the wires for the sending units to the end and pull them thru.
Then just connect the wires per the instructions.
For the gauge pod, if it is the one that attached to the factor piller conver, sit in the car and figure out how you want it mounted. Then mark the location and remove the cover. It’s held in by 3-4 clips, start in the back by where the shoulder harness belt is and carefully pull it of the clips working towards the front of the car. Once off you then need to drill a 1/2” size hole to run the wires from the dash behind the cover, then into the gauge pod. So a fairly large hole because you’ll be running the gauge wires plus a power and ground for the lights.
I have an Autometer Pod. It came with 4 plastic pins to connect it. I didn’t like the look so I used a hot glue gun to attach it, use plastic body filler to blend it into the piller cover. I then use Eastwood’s sandless primer and interior paint to make it all match.