LCA's: I read this link (
http://www.ws6zxr.com/showthread.php?t=23014), and now im not sure what to do. "Road Noise", how bad can it be? I'm not looking for Cadilac quiteness (it would have to be some serious freakin noise as my car already raddle's, ect), or Porche GT2 performance. Now, i want an improvement over stock (obviously), but don't want to spend a fortune on LCA's. I was thinking UMI or BMR (non-adjustable), any one have suggestions? Like ROD ENDS???!!!
I would go with UMI non-adjustable LCA's with the poly ends so you dont have the added noise and dont need to lubricate them as often as rod ends. Make sure that you also get LCA relocation brackets. You can do weld in or bolt on, I chose to do the weld on. This will help with wheel hop issues after lowering the car.
Panhard bar: Again i need an adjustable one and i was again thinking BMR or UMI. Single adj / dbl adj?? Rod ends???
I would go with UMI dbl adjustable PHB and would skip out on the rod ends.
SFC's: 2 point or 3 point? difference's, pro's con's for my application??? Weld-in or Bolt-in, differences in application (besides weld-in being stonger).
You can wait to do these I kind of wish i had. I got all my stuff at the same time so it was harder to "feel" what made a big or little difference. As far a 2 or 3 point I would go with 2 point just because of the issues you might run into down the road if you do exhaust modifications.
Springs: The big question; how low should i go? I can get a set of hotchkis springs pretty cheap. I was looking @ a 1.5" drop in front & 1.3" in rear. However; i do want headers soon, and i don't want my butthole to pucker up to the size of a pin head whenever i go over a bump. I know that QTP and KOOKS say they have no clearance issues but i would like 1st hand opinion. Other then that; they have a 1.2" front and rear drop springs i might go with if u guys think it is too low. also, what lbs spring rate???
As far as springs I would go with a set of Strano springs. They lowered the car just right IMO I ocassionally will scrape my front air dam when pulling in a steep driveway. I am about to find out if there will be any issues with my Kooks headers once i figure out what else I want to go with.
Shock Re-valving: What is the deal with this? It is required? I know the shock bound and rebound should be set with the spring rate but does anyone have first hand experience with have them re-valved? like does it really make a difference or is it necessary for my application? Also, who does them and how much $$$? The shocks I have are the same ones that come in the SLP shock and spring package.
Shock revalving is needed on the Bilstein shocks for them to be comaptible with lowering springs and still give you a decent ride. If I would do it again I would have skipped my revalved Bilsteins and waited to buy the Koni's from Sam.
If you live close by to the Turnersville Washignton Township area I would be more than happy to come show you my car and take you for a ride. Also if you would like me to take any pictures just let me know. If you do a search I had a post a while back about my new setup on here as well as LS1tech. And last if you have the time give Sam Strano a call he is a great guy and helped me out alot with my setup. Right now he is very busy as it is basically just him running his business so just leave him a message and he will get back to you. Goodluck on your setup and let us know how it goes!