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Old 01-04-2008, 10:36 AM   #14
Batman
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fishkill, NY
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Here goes my opinion, FWIW,
LCA's and panhard: Go with any single adjustable for both (since you are lowering the car). I would stay away from rod-ends because they are noisy and yes they are better then poly but not by a whole lot.
SFC's: 3 point are stronger but can cause alot of clearance issues with exhust and the ground, for your car a good set of weld in 2 points will be just fine.
Shocks and Springs: Spend the bucks for Koni adjustables oR QA1's. If you don't plan on doing alot of 1/4 mile time singke adjustable is the way to go.

A couple things you are overlooking (don't know if you did it already or not) is a STB and most importantly a torque arm. The STB is dirt cheap and really helps the nose on turn in in tight corners but I would DEFINATELY get a tubular torque arm. I've had a few and SPohn and UMI make nice adjustables but I went a new route on my car that has ben awesome. I bought a BMR non-adjustable and the BMR front mount relocation kit. It costs a little bit more but you get to keep a full length torque arm and still have adjustment (it has 4 or 5 different mounting points on the front). It isn't the easiest adjustment in the world so if you plan on alot of changes a regular chassis mount adjustable may be hte way for you to go, but in the turns it makes a world of difference having the longer torque arm.
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