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This is another great writeup on pinion seal replacement, I have done a few this way and it works well.
GM says to use a new nut, but you don't have to. Don't change the crush sleeve, either.
If you use the same nut then mark it at 12:00 position with a punch and your new setting will be a tad past that. I needed to use an impact gun to undo the nut.
-jack the car up off the rear wheels
-remove the rear tires
-use a inch lb torque wrench and measure the torque it takes to turn the axle, this will be the reading you'll need when the nut is tightened to where it was before you started, but add 1-2 in lb to make up for the extra drag on the new seal.
-remove nut
-clean threads
-pack seal cavity with wheel bearing grease
-lube the seal rubber part with oil so it doesn't tear
-the manual says to use permatex II sealant on the threads, some use loctite
-screw nut on and tighten down in increments and take your torque reading and get the correct drag + 1-2 in lb.
-you'll need to put the wheels on and lower the car to tighten the nut unless you rig up a tool to screw on the yoke so it touches the ground and stops the axle from turning. So if you want you could take your in lb reading with the wheels on so your not taking them off and on so many times.
-if you had a small small leak dripping you'll still have a smaller one still even though you have a new seal because the old seal made a grove on the yoke from turning for years while you drive.
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