Quote:
Originally Posted by 87IROCmadman
awesome, thanks hardcore and wildbilly..
from looking at the car on the ground. it looks like the crossmember below the tq arm and driveshaft loop is the lowest part. it looks about 1"or so lower than anything else important. what i mean byy important...is the lowest part of the car is the air-dam up front.. very low. . i hope the x-member not too big of a deal for ground clearance since the front is on 2" drop spindles and the rear on cut moog springs. i'll measure it's height off the ground one day soon and let u know if ur still interested.
as for power. i have to be honest. not too much. its a replacement long block from gmpp. about 7 years old too, with the stock tpi setup. the long block is a step below the gmpp zz4 motor, and that puts out about 350 hp 350 tq . mine was quoted around 310 hp at the flywheel, so maybe 275 if im lucky at the wheels after driveline loss. but the headers, exhaust, and air induction may add another 10 or so on top of it. future plans are for a small 100 or 125 shot of nitrous.. then to yank this motor and throw in a 383 with a reasonable procharger/vortech/paxton/etc...or if i decide i like the nitrous ill pump it into the 383...goimg to sta with a small block most likley tho.
i will prob use that heat gun and scraper method. i read about it on thirdgen as well. iw as planning on doing both. it'll be a messy project, but a necessary one. i was planning to use the por15 or some type of paint on the inside of the floor to seal off the metal as well. which orignally is why i thought a wire wheel would be good b/c it would open up the bare metal and paint would stick better than just scraping it off. thx for the advice guys. ill post progress pics in a few weeks. havent started it yet
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Sounds good- but from my experience a wire wheel won't leave enough "tooth" for POR to stick to. It will peel off in small sheets. If you are going to wheel, use some sandpaper to rough it up afterward.