[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by Mulletbird

Well, an update. Got 'er outta the shop last night (around 6:30-ish) and took her home, let her cool (and wait for the rain to stop) and around 7:15-7:30 I took 'er out for a quick spin, with light traffic, just to see how she was running and do a quick test-drive before the meet (so I wouldn't get any surprises out there) and ... she overheated. Cracked the brand spankin' new radiator, blew the hoses, and sent a nice geyser of gasseous coolant flying. Took 2 seconds to go from 180F to 260+F. No fans.

I did shut 'er off the instant she went, so we're thinking I got 'er off before I lost the HG, but not 100% on that yet. Still no fans, so Shaun over at NTB's running a diag on her to see if they can get those to work; they came on with A/C but nothing else. Another idea is (the shop in WV) fudged up that thermo when they put in the 180 to replace the 2xx? They ***'d up a lot of other work on this car, so I wouldn't be surprised. (I got written up twice for working on my car in the college lot, and the third time they tow the car ... so I figured I'd take 'er into a "professional" shop)

Wait. Don't LT1's take specific themostats? Did you use one of those? And aren't LT1 thermos 180* stock?

Originally Posted by Shoebox

While on the subject of thermostats, the LT1 reverse flow system uses a special, long thermostat that works together with the passages in the water pump to provide proper coolant routing. If you use an old SBC style thermostat, you run the risk of the system not operating with proper efficiency and it may overheat. Escalating temps can be caused by poor air or coolant flow.