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KirkEvil · 11-01-2010, 01:00 PM

There is a lot of controversy about injector sizes floating around. Some people say you are fine running the stockers at 120% DC for short WOT, others think those people are crazy. I went with 30# svo, which are 36# at ls1 fuel pressure. I figured it gives me room to grow, and I wouldnt have to get re-tuned if I stayed with stock injectors and wanted to upgrade.

I mentioned head gaskets because you had ls7 lifters in your list. You have to remove the heads to install new lifters on LS1s. You should get ARP BOLTS because its difficult to pull the heads with studs without dropping the engine (cowl clearance). If you do not plan to remove the heads, you should pick up some 3/8" dowel rods to hold the lifters up while you install the cam.

The 2 piece timing cover is a waste of money unless you plan to do Chinese fire drill cam swaps. Removing the crank pulley is hardest the first time.

I personally chose to remove the heads during my "cam only" install to avoid lifter problems, install ARP bolts, and 0.040 gaskets to bump compression. My goal was to get as much power as possible with a mid size cam to stay street friendly. I run a 228/232 111 lsa, which should act just like the 232/234 112 lsa. My current SCR is 11.4:1 and I run 93 pump gas without a problem. I had problems only when re-using the cosmetic head gaskets, and torqued them with an uncalibrated torque wrench.

Reusing plugs is up to you. After spending so much on a cam install I didnt want to cause problems because I got cheap on $15 plugs. This was a thread on Tech about cam swap prices...

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cam-swaps.html

11-01-2010, 01:00 PM	#5
KirkEvil 10 Second Club Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Eatontown Posts: 1,647 iTrader: (11)	There is a lot of controversy about injector sizes floating around. Some people say you are fine running the stockers at 120% DC for short WOT, others think those people are crazy. I went with 30# svo, which are 36# at ls1 fuel pressure. I figured it gives me room to grow, and I wouldnt have to get re-tuned if I stayed with stock injectors and wanted to upgrade. I mentioned head gaskets because you had ls7 lifters in your list. You have to remove the heads to install new lifters on LS1s. You should get ARP BOLTS because its difficult to pull the heads with studs without dropping the engine (cowl clearance). If you do not plan to remove the heads, you should pick up some 3/8" dowel rods to hold the lifters up while you install the cam. The 2 piece timing cover is a waste of money unless you plan to do Chinese fire drill cam swaps. Removing the crank pulley is hardest the first time. I personally chose to remove the heads during my "cam only" install to avoid lifter problems, install ARP bolts, and 0.040 gaskets to bump compression. My goal was to get as much power as possible with a mid size cam to stay street friendly. I run a 228/232 111 lsa, which should act just like the 232/234 112 lsa. My current SCR is 11.4:1 and I run 93 pump gas without a problem. I had problems only when re-using the cosmetic head gaskets, and torqued them with an uncalibrated torque wrench. Reusing plugs is up to you. After spending so much on a cam install I didnt want to cause problems because I got cheap on $15 plugs. This was a thread on Tech about cam swap prices... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cam-swaps.html __________________ 1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114 2008 TBSS: 12.48@108 2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?