[V]

I remember in a thread I made about a year ago, I mentioned possibly making my own bracket and stuff, and my fabrication skills and tooling available was brought up.... I think that question was answered now, lol.


The main plate is 3/8" 6061 aluminum, same thickness as the stock one, I also had to relocate 2 bolts further out because it was cause interference issues with where the alternator pulley will sit. To relocate them, I had to make that smaller bracket too.

The cylinder spacers are made out of 3/4" 7075 Aluminum rod that I cut and drilled to match the original ones. All measurements are down to .001"

The spacers that hold this all to the engine are made out of 1" 7075 aluminum rod I also cut and drilled. The ones that came with the kit were for an f-body so I was only able to use one of the 3 original ones.

All hardware is grade 8, the metric hardware which attaches this to the engine is all 12.9 grade.

Since I didn't want the idler pulley putting any stress on the bolt going into the s/c headunit, I put a 3/8-16 stud into the headunit, then a measured spacer, followed by a coupling nut. that nut tightens down onto the stud, providing the proper standoff, and then the idler pulley bolt screws into the coupling nut and locks the pulley down to the main plate itself.

The idler is a timing pulley for a ford 2.0L engine. Looks better on this application I think. I needed a idler with an outer diameter under 2" and this has a 1.8" diameter. The backside of the belt will ride on this and the belt will go on the inside of the bracket(not near that one close bolt head).



Now I just have to put this in place and then start building/putting the car back together from the front of the engine forward. I still have to make the custom a/c line ends, lower rad support, trim factory fan setup, layout I/C piping, buy I/C, and sleeve my fuse box for an I/C pipe.(gonna be interesting)... Then injectors and load it on my trailer and drag it off to get tuned...