Okay, this is going to make me sound like God... again, when I don't want too but here's an offer to undermine that company. I can build a circuit (have one in my car) for $60 that'll do exactly the same thing. I got the circuit from the buick GN guys. The only difference is it doesn't have an indicator, only an LED and a buzzer that you can turn on and off. More knock makes a longer duration LED/buzz. Works really well and just put a switch imbetween the pcm and this circuit to switch between the 2.
Another thing I can do with the 94-95 Lt1's is speed up the recovery rate of the SA, limit the amount of retard (in PE and non-PE), and a few other things. The best solution would be to disable the knock sensor below a certain vehicle speed like 40mph or whatever is just above 1st gear redline. This I can't do with these pcm's but I could disable the knock below a specific engine temp. This way, if you race at the track at a cooler temp you won't have to worry about the knock retard, only when you're up to street driving temps.
There are a lot of options but disabling the knock sensor is just stupid. The only time you'd do that is if you're running solid mounts all around, super stiff suspension, and have a trans that shifts so hard it puts your head into the back of the seat at part throttle (paul has this). Even then, with the older ecm's I can tune the knock sensor with more control, just seems like the Lt1 pcm's haven't been fully hacked yet leaving a lot of that stuff hidden. Somebody want to give me $60k and I'll spend a year figuring out the code

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, Jon
Owner of a Red Sled.
If it\'s EFI I can tune it. Specialize in 82-95 GM (yes Lt1\'s)
\"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn.......Then, you have enough horsepower\" - Mark Donohue