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			04-19-2010, 02:46 PM
			
			
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			#1
			
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				The impact of suspension changes on vehicle dynamics
			 
			 
			
		
		
		
			
			Based on a few recent posts, I thought this list might be useful to some folks who are thinking about chassis changes. 
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					Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
					
				 
				
Guide To High Performance Handling
	Code: 
	Adjustments	 	Decrease Understeer 	Decrease Oversteer 
Front Tire Pressure 	Higher 			Lower 
Rear Tire Pressure 	Lower 			Higher 
Front Tire Section 	Larger 			Smaller 
Rear Tire Section 	Smaller 		Larger 
Front Wheel Camber 	More Negative 		More Positive 
Rear Wheel Camber 	More Positive 		More Negative 
Front Wheel Toe 	Toward Toe-Out 		Toward Toe-In 
Rear Wheel Toe 		Toward Toe-In 		Toward Toe-Out 
Front Wheel Caster 	More Positive 		More Negative 
Front Springs 		Soften 			Stiffen 
Rear Springs 		Stiffen 		Soften 
Front Anti-sway Bar 	Soften (Thinner) 	Stiffen (Thicken) 
Rear Anti-sway Bar 	Stiffen (Thicker) 	Soften (Thinner) 
Weight Distribution 	More Rearward 		More Forward
Front Track		Decrease track		Increase track	**
Rear Track		Increase track 		Decrease track  **
Front Toe-in		Reduce 			Increase
Front tire downforce	Increase 		Reduce
Rear tire downforce	Reduce 			Increase 
  
			
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 understeer = the nose pushes 
oversteer = the tail gets loose
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read. 
 
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold.  I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors. 
 
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			04-19-2010, 05:48 PM
			
			
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			#2
			
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			 12 Second Club 
			
						
			
			
			
				 
                                        
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			good call on this post
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			04-21-2010, 12:46 AM
			
			
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			#3
			
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			Nice post, just one concern. Its seems to me that the first 2 rows are backwards?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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2000 SS M6 
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			04-21-2010, 07:47 AM
			
			
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			#4
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
		
			
				
					Originally Posted by  BarneyMobile
					 
				 
				Nice post, just one concern. Its seems to me that the first 2 rows are backwards? 
			
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 I had the same thought.   
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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67' Camaro - Worked 327, Hotchkis TVS suspension, 4 wheel cross drilled discs, AM radio FTL 
05' Silverado - Stock, stock, and stock.
			  
		
		
		
		
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			04-21-2010, 09:03 AM
			
			
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			#5
			
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			I'll do some more research.  But I know with my civic it would oversteer when pushed hard and bumping the back tire PSI up absolutely helped.  In any event I believe the concept is based on starting with PSI on being within an ideal range.  So we’re talking maybe +/- a few psi, just fine tuning.  IMO it’s tweaking after you’ve already set ‘ideal’ PSI via reading temps across the face of the tire.  It’s not saying drop the tire to 10 psi or raise it to 60 psi. 
 
I have read where if a car understeers entering and oversteers exiting a corner, raise all pressures.  But I’ve never done that.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read. 
 
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold.  I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors. 
 
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
			 
		
		
		
		
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			04-25-2010, 03:25 PM
			
			
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			#6
			
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			Taken from How To Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn 
 
To Reduce Understeer: 
Increase weight transfer at rear by increasing rear roll stiffness 
Reduce weight transfer on front by reducing front roll stiffness 
Reduce front toe-in 
Increase aero downforce on front tires 
Reduce aero downforce on rear tires 
Wider front tires 
 
To Reduce Oversteer: 
Reduce weight transfer at rear by reducing rear roll stiffness 
Increase weight transfer on front by increasing front roll stiffness 
Increase front toe-in 
Reduce aero downforce on front tires 
Increase aero downforce on rear tires 
Wider rear tires 
 
He states the old rule of thumb was to increase front PSI to reduce understeer and increase rear PSI to reduce oversteer.  He goes on to say this really applies to road cars where PSI is often too low to begin with.  Best bet is to get PSI correct via temp readings via skidpad testing and changing psi only limits grip. 
 
In Herb Adam's Chassis Engineering, he also does not appear to get into PSI other than working off temperatures to get to ideal and is generally in the same vein as Puhn. 
 
So that jives with my gut that PSI is just fine tuning and Puhn talking about only going up on road tires matches my experiences.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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				Vent Windows Forever!  
 
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read. 
 
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold.  I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors. 
 
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
			 
		
		
		
		
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