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		|  01-16-2012, 10:54 AM | #1 |  
	| Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
				 
                                        
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				Key copy question
			 
 
			
			I have VATS tuned out of my car so the chip isn't used. I want to get a copy of my keys made but the two times I've tried the ignition cyl will not turn with the copy. Visually the copies seem to match perfectly, only there is no chip in them. I figured it would not make a difference as it doesn't have anything to do with the tumblers in the lock cyl.
 
 
 Note: I am not saying the car doesn't start with the copies, I am saying the key doesn't even turn.
 
 
 
 Do I really have to get official copies made?
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:14 AM | #2 |  
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			What kind/company is the spare key made by? Had a similar problem using a cheaper key (forget the make, was a gold skinny key) in an Alero, usually took a good amount of wiggling before it would turn.  However, had copies made for a Malibu and they worked great every time. I think those were made from ilco and looked like an actual car key.
		 
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:18 AM | #3 |  
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					Originally Posted by 97camaro  What kind/company is the spare key made by? Had a similar problem using a cheaper key (forget the make, was a gold skinny key) in an Alero, usually took a good amount of wiggling before it would turn.  However, had copies made for a Malibu and they worked great every time. I think those were made from ilco and looked like an actual car key. |  Looks like an actual car key with rubber boot. HY-KO brand. Got the copies made at Home Depot. Door keys work perfectly- just not ignition. Copies they made for my Nova work perfectly.
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:25 AM | #4 |  
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			It turns out the system is a lot simpler than that, but still effective. What is embedded in the key is one precision resistor. When you insert the key in the ignition, the resistor becomes part of a simple circuit involving three other resistors. If the key does not have a resistor or if the resistor has the wrong value, the circuit disables part of the car's electrical system to prevent the car from starting.
 
 
 
 
 i couldnt say it better, so i quoted it from another site.
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:27 AM | #5 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon  It turns out the system is a lot simpler than that, but still effective. What is embedded in the key is one precision resistor. When you insert the key in the ignition, the resistor becomes part of a simple circuit involving three other resistors. If the key does not have a resistor or if the resistor has the wrong value, the circuit disables part of the car's electrical system to prevent the car from starting.
 
 
 
 
 i couldnt say it better, so i quoted it from another site.
 |  He disabled that system, and it does not prevent the key from physically turning anyway.
		 
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					Originally Posted by KirkEvil  repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home |  |  
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:29 AM | #6 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon  It turns out the system is a lot simpler than that, but still effective. What is embedded in the key is one precision resistor. When you insert the key in the ignition, the resistor becomes part of a simple circuit involving three other resistors. If the key does not have a resistor or if the resistor has the wrong value, the circuit disables part of the car's electrical system to prevent the car from starting.
 
 
 
 
 i couldnt say it better, so i quoted it from another site.
 |  Right, I get that it prevents it from starting. But it prevents the key from turning in the cylinder at all? That's my problem here.
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:43 AM | #7 |  
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			is the depth of the key right? does the rubber "boot" maybe fill up the bezel too much and not seat fully?
		 
				 Last edited by V; 01-16-2012 at 11:43 AM.
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:44 AM | #8 |  
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					Originally Posted by V  is the depth of the key right? does the rubber "boot" maybe fill up the bezel to much and not seat fully? |  I have two keys, one with the boot and one without. Neither work although the "shank" (?) is the correct length.
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		|  01-16-2012, 11:47 AM | #9 |  
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			Cut one end and attach to one with a resistor? I dono man, sounds like bad keys. Try a local key guy if you have one and see what he thinks of the copies first.
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		|  01-16-2012, 03:55 PM | #10 |  
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					Originally Posted by WildBillyT  Looks like an actual car key with rubber boot. HY-KO brand. Got the copies made at Home Depot. Door keys work perfectly- just not ignition. Copies they made for my Nova work perfectly. |  Same thing I experienced, doors opened in both situations except the copies for the Alero didn't work well and required some finagling in the ignition. They were made by the same manufacture too (ilco) although the Alero keys were copied somewhere in NJ and the Malibu keys somewhere at a hardware store in Montauk NY on vacation. Cannot remember which stores exactly.
 
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					Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider  Cut one end and attach to one with a resistor? I dono man, sounds like bad keys. Try a local key guy if you have one and see what he thinks of the copies first. |  I agree with this guy. Perhaps Home Depot either made a mistake or the machine is not accurate enough.  It doesn't take much difference to misalign the teeth of the key and the pins in the ignition cylinder thus preventing you from turning the key.
 
I am not a locksmith or any thing like that, just personal experience    
				__________________1997 Camaro Z28  - 355 LT1, T56, CC503, LTs, ORY, Bald Eagle-back exhaust, !emissions, Lingenfelter CAI, EWP, !CAGS, BMR LCAs, UMI PHB, Koni Str.t/Koni SA, C5 Z06 front / LS1 F-body rear brake swap, factory hurst with short stick   2014 2LT Cruze 2.0  Turbo Diesel |  
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		|  01-16-2012, 04:07 PM | #11 |  
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			my friend had a home door key made at Lowes... didnt work, looks perfect, but just doesnt work.
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		|  01-16-2012, 04:09 PM | #12 |  
	| Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
				 
                                        
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			Could be their bum copies but maybe my key and cyl is worn down.
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		|  01-16-2012, 06:01 PM | #13 |  
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			old key could be to worn down or the inside of the cylinder is worn, had the same issue with my blue 88, new fresh cut key wouldnt even turn, and there was no vats chip at all
		 
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		|  01-16-2012, 06:12 PM | #14 |  
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			Bill, run a wire wheel over the key to soften the edges and see if it helps.
		 
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		|  01-16-2012, 07:13 PM | #15 |  
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			billy go to a lock smith have them make you the ignition key
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		|  01-16-2012, 07:17 PM | #16 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon  It turns out the system is a lot simpler than that, but still effective. What is embedded in the key is one precision resistor. When you insert the key in the ignition, the resistor becomes part of a simple circuit involving three other resistors. If the key does not have a resistor or if the resistor has the wrong value, the circuit disables part of the car's electrical system to prevent the car from starting.i couldnt say it better, so i quoted it from another site.
 |  reading fail......
 
Billy, I have come across that many times, and everytime, I've taken the copy,hit it on a wirewheel thats on my bench grinder (wireheeling both sides of key) and key would work evrytime after that. Try it.
		 
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	South Jersey RacecraftQuote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by SRGN  I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane. |  |  
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		|  01-16-2012, 07:44 PM | #17 |  
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			The chip shouldn't matter.  The master that comes with a new cylinder does not have a chip and will turn the cylinder.  
 You may need to round the edges of your new copy to get it to work correctly.  I usually use a wire wheel.  If the new key is a hair off it won't work,  I've had to file down teeth to get them to work correctly.
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		|  01-16-2012, 08:25 PM | #18 |  
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					Originally Posted by Stevoone  The chip shouldn't matter.  The master that comes with a new cylinder does not have a chip and will turn the cylinder.  
 You may need to round the edges of your new copy to get it to work correctly.  I usually use a wire wheel.  If the new key is a hair off it won't work,  I've had to file down teeth to get them to work correctly.
 |  Someone else that knows the trick...   
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	South Jersey RacecraftQuote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by SRGN  I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane. |  |  
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		|  01-16-2012, 08:37 PM | #19 |  
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					Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER  Someone else that knows the trick...  |  Yup. Gonna do it tomorrow after work.
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		|  01-16-2012, 09:37 PM | #20 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER  reading fail......
 Billy, I have come across that many times, and everytime, I've taken the copy,hit it on a wirewheel thats on my bench grinder (wireheeling both sides of key) and key would work evrytime after that. Try it.
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					Originally Posted by Stevoone  The chip shouldn't matter.  The master that comes with a new cylinder does not have a chip and will turn the cylinder.  
 You may need to round the edges of your new copy to get it to work correctly.  I usually use a wire wheel.  If the new key is a hair off it won't work,  I've had to file down teeth to get them to work correctly.
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					Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER  Someone else that knows the trick...  |  
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					Originally Posted by Featherburner  Bill, run a wire wheel over the key to soften the edges and see if it helps. |  I guess you guys didn't see my post?
		 
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		|  01-16-2012, 10:19 PM | #21 |  
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			^^^ lol.... I actually read through all the posts before replying, your post & chris's didn't show up cause I had the page loaded, then went to dinner than came back and replied before refeshing page....either way, I seem like a marter now tho... lol
		 
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	South Jersey RacecraftQuote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by SRGN  I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane. |  |  
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