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		|  10-04-2006, 02:55 PM | #1 |  
	| Resident Camera Guy   
				 
                                        
				Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: North Jersey 
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				Over-Heating under throttle
			 
 
			
			Took the car out on the road today, and it keeps over-heating under light throttle! When the car idles the temps stay nice and cool at a steady 190*. But when I start on the road, the temps slowly rise to a dangerous level after a few minutes of low speed driving.  I figured it was possibly air bubles in the lines, because at one point it just spiked to over heating, so i immedietly shut the car off and roleld to a stop and let it cool, when I poped the hood, the Electric water pump was going as it should, and the anti-freeze didn't smell bad at all!  Also the temps returned to normal after only a minute.
 Now I have un-coated pace-setters on the car now, that are running through the heat cycles and blowing out alittle smoke, but could that cuase it to over-heat like it does?
 
 I didn't get a chance to check the fans yet, I'll be doing that after class.
 
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				 Last edited by ar0ck; 10-04-2006 at 02:58 PM.
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		|  10-04-2006, 03:03 PM | #2 |  
	| Co-Founder / Site Admin 
				 
                                        
				Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ewing, NJ 
					Posts: 22,476
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			Sounds like air bubbles if the gauge is moving around pretty quick.
 - Justin
 
				__________________1999 Camry  - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban  - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee  - Not running / Project / Selling?
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		|  10-04-2006, 03:07 PM | #3 |  
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				Join Date: Nov 2004 
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			air bubles ftl, there a pain best way is to just drain the coolant and add a little bit a time, and when its topped off start the car up and add more if need be that usual takes care of the bubbles.
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		|  10-04-2006, 03:48 PM | #4 |  
	| Sliderule / Moderator 
				 
                                        
				Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Catawissa PA 
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			Make sure the radiator is topped off!  Then keep bleeding it via the bleed screws.  It's not unusual to have to do this 4-5 times, air pockets in the heads can be a pain to get all out, so also keep an eye on the coolant level.
 Run it until it starts to warm up (not all the way until the thermastat opens), CAREFULLY open the bleeder valves.  Then shut it off, let it cool and open the bleed screws again until coolant comes out, repeat, repeat, repeat.
 
 Keeping the rad topped off helps get the air forced out quicker so keep an eye on it.
 
 JB
 
				__________________93Z M6 Black:  The 385 Lives!  Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
 
 1) Build it
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		|  10-04-2006, 06:36 PM | #5 |  
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				Join Date: Feb 2006 
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			my guess with out having it happen to me is the fan clutch if it has one has gone away -- jz
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		|  10-05-2006, 10:49 AM | #6 |  
	| Co-Founder / Site Admin 
				 
                                        
				Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ewing, NJ 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by johnjzjz
					
				 my guess with out having it happen to me is the fan clutch if it has one has gone away -- jz |  Nope, this is a '95 LT1. All electric fans.
 
 - Justin
		 
				__________________1999 Camry  - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban  - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee  - Not running / Project / Selling?
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		|  10-05-2006, 12:54 PM | #7 |  
	| 13 Second Club / Moderator 
				 
                                        
				Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ 
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			alex did you fix this yet?
		 
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					Originally Posted by LS1ow  Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger |  |  
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