spec clutches (feedback)???

[deadtrend1]

Originally Posted by lethalrides2k3

actually i was thinking maybe i can mix and match some parts.centerforce disk with a spec preasure plate or somethign liek that

Spec has a wierd style pressure plate and disk compared to the rest. Most look like OEM, spec's has a thinner disk with the stage 2, and the pressure plate has more springs, but smaller in size

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by qwikz28

if its your DD and you have the cash, might as well shoot for the T56. they are stronger anyways

yeah just make sure you have a 2001 or 2002 T56 because the shift forks will bend in the other ones.

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by qwikz28

does it matter what car? mine is great. holds like a glove, pedal feel is nice, overall a good unit. all clutches are hit or miss IMO so you are always running the chance of having clutch failure. and with your track record its more then likely

I couldntve said it any better myself. despite the stage 3 being defective and not seeming to last too long, i would still buy another spec just for simple fact that when they arent defective they seriously hold up to some abuse. to give you an idea, after i broke my stage 3 in and raced a few times, i snapped my transmission mount lol. then my rear broke a few months after that on street tires.

[qwikz28]

Originally Posted by 98tadriver

yeah just make sure you have a 2001 or 2002 T56 because the shift forks will bend in the other ones.

i have a 2002 and my shift forks are all bent up. t56rebuilds.com ftw

[Batman]

If anyone was at the F-body nats last year you all saw my stage 3 bite it 5 passes. I know 7 people who ran the stage 3, one made it to 20,000 miles, the rest were done in under 10K. Go for a RAM or Textralia. Spend the coin and do it right.

[project89]

Originally Posted by Batman

If anyone was at the F-body nats last year you all saw my stage 3 bite it 5 passes. I know 7 people who ran the stage 3, one made it to 20,000 miles, the rest were done in under 10K. Go for a RAM or Textralia. Spend the coin and do it right.

its a v6 car,they dont make clucthes for the v6,or ateast ones i can find,only clucthes i can find are stock hevy duty,which i wouldnt even waste my money on,or a center force dual friction clutch,which frankly would prolly slip and burn up in no time behind the turbo motor.

[Savage_Messiah]

Just stick with the 4l60e in the 3.4 and build it up... if you do push serious power, the T5 will die anyway.

[project89]

Originally Posted by Savage_Messiah

Just stick with the 4l60e in the 3.4 and build it up... if you do push serious power, the T5 will die anyway.

no 4l60e i refuse to waste 5-600 on a control box,im prolly gonna stick with the built 700r4 i have now,maybe get a transbrake installed and a vigilante 4k converter

[Savage_Messiah]

3.4s came with 4l60e's stock (except 93?) that's why I said it... but that 700 should bolt up from one 60 to another so go for it

[project89]

yeha i didnt take the trans cause i couldnt use it,and out of the whole motor the only original "3.4" part is the block,but yeah my 700r4 will bolt right upto it,or i could get adapter plates and run the t56 but thats alot of money

[Savage_Messiah]

the canted valve heads and all will give you a better increase than the 3400 top end swap, right?

[project89]

the canted valve heads are 3400 heads i belive,the way they name all the diff motors confuse melol.but anyways the aluminum heads only came on fwd motors as far as i know.

fwd = 3400?
rwd = 3.4 ?

[Savage_Messiah]

yep thats how its named

[project89]

same heads then mine are just new from gm, and the ports are slightly diff