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05-08-2012, 10:47 AM
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#1
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Stalker
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
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jeep tire/steering issue...
Since this site also could almost be called NJ jeep owner association... I have a Jeep question...
Vehicle is a 2001 Cherokee sport, (4dr, auto, 4wd etc).. My friend complains of a clicking/popping/grinding sound coming from the drivers side tire area when making left turns. We also just had to change his drivers front tire to the Spare due to major uneven tire wear. ONLY the drivers side tire had wear on the outer edge down to the metal cords. All other tires show normal wear. I'm thinking bad hub assembly. Any other possible causes? He doesn't have much money so can't afford throwing a ton of parts at it. Even taking it to a shop and paying a diagnostic fee, then parts and labor would be really pushing it. I would swap the hub myself for him if I feel very confident that it is the cause. He did say the tire wear got worse as the noise got worse, and tires all wore fine prior to noise. Oh, and also best place to get bearing and brand?
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05-08-2012, 01:18 PM
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#2
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
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Sounds like either a bad wheel hub or ball joints. I would get it from rock auto. As far as brands I can't really comment on that
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Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO
2018 Silverado 1500
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05-08-2012, 02:41 PM
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#3
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Stalker
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
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rock auto had a decent selection, so decent that it confused me lol. I have no idea which one i need or should get.
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05-09-2012, 07:48 AM
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#4
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
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as far as wheel bearings I have always had luck with Moog or Timken stuff. Ball joints I try to stick with a wheel known brand, so if there a Delco or Moog or anything like that I would use them
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Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO
2018 Silverado 1500
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05-13-2012, 03:28 PM
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#5
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2007 Member of the Year
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seabrook, TX
Posts: 14,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenformula92
as far as wheel bearings I have always had luck with Moog or Timken stuff. Ball joints I try to stick with a wheel known brand, so if there a Delco or Moog or anything like that I would use them
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WF=DF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
Junk the pos, spend the money on beer, acquire headache.
Same result cept this headache doesnt last months.
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05-13-2012, 05:12 PM
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#6
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jim Thorpe PA
Posts: 2,133
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For wheel bearings use timken. I would check the u-joint on the axle shaft as well as they will click and bind when they go bad. For the tire wear its probably the hub bearing or ball joints, I would also get it aligned after.
Last edited by B4C; 05-13-2012 at 05:13 PM.
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05-13-2012, 05:23 PM
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#7
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Stalker
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
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i looked at the u joint at the wheel and nothing jumped out at me as being odd or faulty with it. Im sure if i pull the wheel and look at it again, now that i know where to look, i bet ill be able to notice hub failure.
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05-13-2012, 05:50 PM
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#8
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jim Thorpe PA
Posts: 2,133
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with the truck on the ground just have someone push on it in park and watch the joint to see if there is play in it.
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05-13-2012, 08:52 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,638
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More than likely a bad hub, although the ball joints could be at fault, too.
A bad hub is easy - Jack up the axle on that side, try wiggling the wheel at the top and bottom. If there's any play, watch the backside as you do it to determine if it's the hub or ball joints.
Getting the hubs out is sometimes a bit problematic, as they lock in with rust. Using a hub puller on the hub surface won't help, as it'll just pull the hub apart at the bearings.
What I found works is to turn out the hub bolts on the backside 1-2 turns, put a sacrificial socket on then one at a time, and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer. Walk around all three, and the hub should start coming out.
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1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
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05-13-2012, 11:07 PM
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#10
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Bishop
More than likely a bad hub, although the ball joints could be at fault, too.
A bad hub is easy - Jack up the axle on that side, try wiggling the wheel at the top and bottom. If there's any play, watch the backside as you do it to determine if it's the hub or ball joints.
Getting the hubs out is sometimes a bit problematic, as they lock in with rust. Using a hub puller on the hub surface won't help, as it'll just pull the hub apart at the bearings.
What I found works is to turn out the hub bolts on the backside 1-2 turns, put a sacrificial socket on then one at a time, and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer. Walk around all three, and the hub should start coming out.
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That or a ton of heat and a lot of PB Blaster. either way it can be a huge PITA
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Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO
2018 Silverado 1500
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05-20-2012, 07:47 PM
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#11
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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I think I may have shown this to you in chat Paul, but if not:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unit...tbearing-1.htm
Easy method to get the unit bearing out on a Jeep Dana 30 front axle.
- Justin
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1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-20-2012, 08:01 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: manchester, NJ
Posts: 1,775
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sounds most to me like it is the u joint on the axle... could be bearing though.. bearings are super easyto change... just did mine replaced with timkens... they are fine so far. being its only making noise on turns it sounds like the ujoints are binding up..
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