Ignition modifications

[SteveR]

Ok, first topic

How would you go about seting up the wiring for the ignition if you wanted the key to only activate the electrical side and not the starter and have a seperate switch for the ignition mounted on the dash? Also, would it be wise to have a kill switch for the electric fuel pump?

[Untamed]

Whats wrong with simply turning the key one click to engage the electrical without starting the engine?

[Koll]

Originally Posted by Untamed

Whats wrong with simply turning the key one click to engage the electrical without starting the engine?

QFT. Theres "ON" and then "START". Start is what kicks the starter over. On is the fuel pump (if its electrical), ignition, etc.

[SteveR]

Originally Posted by Untamed

Whats wrong with simply turning the key one click to engage the electrical without starting the engine?

I'd use the key to go one click to engage the electrical then have a seperate momentary switch for the starter and a kill switch for the elec. fuel pump.

[NJSPEEDER]

if you want a safety kill for eh fuel pump i would get one of the stock ones from a ford. they ae usually mounted in teh trunk and can be found in any junkyard for a buck or two.
if you want to run a seperate wire for the fuel pump ou can just use one of teh extra swtiched accesary points in the fuse box as a source and run an inline switch.

later
tim

[Tru2Chevy]

By "kill switch" do you mean as a method of theft deterent, or safety?

- Justin

[SteveR]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

By "kill switch" do you mean as a method of theft deterent, or safety?

- Justin

Safety. If for some reason I'm making a pass and something happens where either the motor dies, fuel line bursts, or fire starts, I want to be able to shut off the pump immediately because unlike a mechanical pump, the electric will keep pushing fuel to the motor if the power is still there. I'd like both to be mounted on the dash. I already have the switches, just need to figure out how to wire them up.

[NJSPEEDER]

i would jsut go with an inline switch with in easy reach when belted in. find one of teh switched power ports in the fuse box that isn't being used and run it off there.
the top of teh console, left side, in front of teh shifter is a nice spot for safety related switches. you can reach it really easy yet it isn't likely to be hit accidently.

later
tim

[V]

fuel pump switch:
on cars that came with factory electric fuel pumps, there should be a fuel pump relay. On the 3rd gens, they are mounted on the drivers side firewall by the cowl(to the right above the brake booster). You would need to check a service manual for your car to locate it. On that realy there several wires, the 2 large wires are main power, one is hot in, other is hot to the pump. do not touch those. there will be a thinner gauge wire that activates the relay most likely a thinner solid red wire(may be tan or yellow) check a shop manual to be sure of wire color or use a test light/ voltmeter to confirm it. (it should give the relay power only with the key at run or start(not ACC)) Then, you would cut into that thinner wire before the relay and install an inline switch. make sure that switch is of good quality and has at least a 30amp rating just to be safe. That way, with the new switch you will turn on and off the fuel pump relay. You do not want to put a switch directly inline with the pump since it uses a higher amp load and could limit proper voltage getting to the pump.

push buttom start:
There are a few ways, depending on where you want to splice into the starter activation wire(3 main places, under dash, underhood by fuse block or at starter). for this explination ill do it off the starter. On the starter you will see two terminals, 1 terminal will have about 4 wires going to it(i think 2 red, pink, battery cable...) the other terminal with have a dark purple wire going to it by itself. That purple wire is the starter activation wire, and it is attached the the starter solenoid (on the starter) with a 8 or 9 mm nut. To make a seperate push button starter switch, remove that wire and tape it off securely, you will not be using it anymore and you dont want it bare and able to touch any grounded metal. Now, run at least a 12 or 14 gauge wire(again to be on the safe side) to that terminal and reattach it with the nut. run that new wire through the engien compartment(keeping it clear of hot or moving engine parts) and run it into the passenger compartment through the firewall(easiest would be the drivers side through an available grommet(you wouldnt need to do this step if you spliced the wire inder the dash) Once the wire is inside the car, you would want to connect it to another high quality pushbuttom switch(at least 30amp rating as well to be safe) Connect the other terminal on the switch to the fuse box under the dash with a blade connector into a terminal marked IGN, with that done, you now have a pushbutton starter and the key will ONLY activate the "run" position for all power on, turning the key to start will NOT engage the starter anymore. (You can also install a ford style remote starter solenoid, the same basic idea, just involves moving the starter wires away from the starter itself and running a single batteray cable to the starter with a custom jumper between the 2 terminals, i'll explain that more in a email in interested)

Other people may say there are other way to do these wirings, but these are the safest from my experiences and I would never wire my cars differently. Ive wired up many vehicle with all sorts of electronics, switches, stand alone FI systems, and custom chassis harnesses and I am 100% confident with my methods. If you have any specific questions or concerns email me directly at Smokingss@aol.com.