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04-08-2008, 01:18 PM
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#1
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Anyone try/using Dry Guide?
Getting ready to do some painting and reading about dry guide. Anyone using it, good/bad - tricks?
Thanks, JB
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93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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04-09-2008, 12:25 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 2,630
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I'm assuming dry guide is a guide coat for on top of your primer? I use a spray on guide coat powder but I'm going to start using the dry stuff for economical reasons. Guide coat is a very very valuable tool when doing high quality jobs. It will show you nicks, scratches, and low spots you'd never see with your naked eye.
Just put it on and let it dry or adhere for maybe 5-10 minutes and sand it off. Use a flat block or rubber squegee and sand until all the guide coat is gone....if you start hitting bare metal and your still have your guide coat you know you have a low spot that needs filling. Don't bother using your guide coat until you are ready to sand with either 220 or 400 grit paper. If you're using coarser than that you're too far away from finished still.
Best of luck!
Oh and you can sand it either wet or dry. If you don't have to worry about rust coming up on you quickly I'd suggest wet sanding.
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--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
1989 IROC-Z Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
GM High Tech Performance - Tech Article 3/06
Chevy Rumble - Tech & Feature Articles November 2006
Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
SkinAndSteel.com
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04-09-2008, 04:46 PM
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#3
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Thanks bud!
yes, that is what it is
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
It's a used fiberglass hood, Think it's called the "Stinger" looks like a 67 stingray BB hood.
I think it was made by American SC design. Seems to be of good quality. The paint that is on it isn't too bad and it is painted in the Camaro teal color, looks to have been done fairly well, but there is some noticable fisheye. One bad scratch about 1' long that I need to block out and a few stone chips. but other then the scratch, overall I think just sanding out to the base coat and prime/paint from there will be good. Don't expect to have to do any major filling or sanding at this point. Don't see any waves in it at all.
Since it will be painted black I know it needs to be as perfect as I can get it. Been a long time since I used a spray gun ( and that was the old sytle cup guns too ( cause,,,, well last time I painted,,,,,,, Lacquer was popular! LOL! )
Actually think this is going to be a fun project, I picked up a full set of guns, The kit with two of the Devilbiss Startingline HVLP guns, and also got a touch up and air brush set. So they have been sitting their begging me to take then out of the wrappers!
I'll probably have a few more question and I'll keep you posted on my adventure!
If this works, I'll move on to other panels!
John
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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04-10-2008, 08:53 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 2,630
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Sounds good John. Feel free to PM me or even call me with any questions. What paint line are you planning on using? If it happens to be DuPont let me know. I have a high build primer that's just for fiberglass that would help you out a lot with that thing. If you're coming down this way for E-Town or Cops and Rodders and can transport the hood I could hit it with a nice thick coat for you. I have extra just sitting around so no charge or anything. Or if you have some kind of containers you can put the primer and activator in I'll just give you a few ounces.
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--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
1989 IROC-Z Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
GM High Tech Performance - Tech Article 3/06
Chevy Rumble - Tech & Feature Articles November 2006
Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
SkinAndSteel.com
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04-10-2008, 08:33 PM
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#5
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Banned Camp Director Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Somerset County
Posts: 8,395
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I've used rattle can spray paint as a guide coat before. nice and cheap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddest434
and 1 more smart ass answer by you and i'm going to reach into this monitor and grab you by the throat
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04-10-2008, 09:31 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elmer
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian
I've used rattle can spray paint as a guide coat before. nice and cheap
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Thats what I use quick and cheap. Just use a contrasting color.
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The faster I go the happier I am.
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04-11-2008, 12:16 PM
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#7
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcoreZ28
I have extra just sitting around so no charge or anything. Or if you have some kind of containers you can put the primer and activator in I'll just give you a few ounces.
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THANK YOU! Yes, I'll get contains. There is a place local to me that is a distributor, and I think Dupont is an option. I actually have gotten that far yet as to brand.
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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04-11-2008, 12:26 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 2,630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
THANK YOU! Yes, I'll get contains. There is a place local to me that is a distributor, and I think Dupont is an option. I actually have gotten that far yet as to brand.
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Ok....I have to doublecheck one thing though....that primer may only be good for bare fiberglass. I'll have to read the can and see or call my supplier. If so you may want to just sand that hood down with some 180 on a DA first if you can do it without creating low spots everywhere. You may be able to go right over the sanded old paint though. Gonna PM you my shop number and you can call or leave a message whenever you're ready.
__________________
--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
1989 IROC-Z Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
GM High Tech Performance - Tech Article 3/06
Chevy Rumble - Tech & Feature Articles November 2006
Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
SkinAndSteel.com
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09-23-2008, 10:27 PM
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#9
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Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
Been a long time since I used a spray gun ( and that was the old sytle cup guns too ( cause,,,, well last time I painted,,,,,,, Lacquer was popular! LOL! )
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Holy crap you're old!
Damn kids
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09-23-2008, 10:31 PM
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#10
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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I have read many good comments on dry guide (3M I think).
Maybe look here: http://www.autobody101.com/
Stinger hood FTW.
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09-24-2008, 08:22 AM
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#11
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NJFBOA Co-Founder
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: All up in your kool aid!
Posts: 12,235
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I never knew they made special guide coat before. I always went to the local hardware store and got the 75cent cans of BBQ paint, available in black, gray, and white. lol
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09-25-2008, 07:50 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 2,630
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Again I'll preach on how great guide coat is. I use it on atleast my last two sandings on every car I paint. You'd be amazed how many little nicks, scratches, and tiny dings your eye will miss.
I still prefer the stuff that comes in the aerosol can too...it sticks better, especially on verticle surfaces like doors and rear quarters.
__________________
--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
1989 IROC-Z Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
GM High Tech Performance - Tech Article 3/06
Chevy Rumble - Tech & Feature Articles November 2006
Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
SkinAndSteel.com
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09-26-2008, 09:35 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Morristown
Posts: 191
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I used the 3M dry guide coat on my car and it worked great. Very quick and easy to use.
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09-30-2008, 01:13 PM
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#14
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Been so busy with other projects I never got back to finish blocking it out. Maybe one day,,,,
Funny, I was watching a show one night about the Riddler hotrod award, and one of the top cars ( not sure if it won ), was painted with water base paint. It was one of the only cars not painted with Lacquer, so I guess being old isn't always a bad thing?
Eventually the car will be a really deep black, with light blue/purple/red ghost flames. I want the old school type flames, criss/cross down the fendors and doors. I also haven't touched the air brushes in years, but I have an idea for something on the underside.
How the inital paint on the hood turns out will probably determine how my plans go. I got the entire paint layout in my head, getting it onto the car is going to be the real hard part!
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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10-04-2008, 07:03 PM
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#15
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: under a roof
Posts: 2,034
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I actually used it on my bumper today, it worked good. I still prefer just using a rattle can, plus its cheaper!
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1973 Chevy Nova - best e.t.-10.04 - currently disassembled
1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
2016 Dodge Durango R/T
2015 Ram 3500 Dually Cummins
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