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02-05-2012, 01:44 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vernon, New jersey
Posts: 29
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basic suspension set up ideas
Well...i tried to sell the car but it didnt work out....back to the drawing board. It still has stock suspension set up and its old and tired. What would be a good start for front and rear suspension set up without going crazy. The engine isnt worked over to much- just replaced top end AFR heads with new cam, trans has a 3000 stall, rear is a 4.10 w/ eaton unit in it. I would like the set up to be decent enough for the track but still allow me to drive on the road to..ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!!
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as of now- ARF 180 heads, cc305, re-built bottom end, 3000 stall in re-built 4l60E, 4.10 in the rear......and still slow...lookingformore...still
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02-05-2012, 02:48 PM
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#2
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,692
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When you say track, do you mean drag racing, autocross, road course?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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02-06-2012, 08:58 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 2,630
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What year is the car? I'm a dealer for Spohn's stuff and I've always been happy with it on my IROC. If you'd like pricing on anything in particular let me know. I run their rear lca's, panhard, torque arm, and front engine cross member
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--==RPM Resto & Custom==--
1989 IROC-Z Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - Readers Rides 4/03
GM High Tech Performance - Tech Article 3/06
Chevy Rumble - Tech & Feature Articles November 2006
Auto Restorer Magazine - Feature Article 5/11
SkinAndSteel.com
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02-13-2012, 07:04 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vernon, New jersey
Posts: 29
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The car is a 1995 Z28...and i like to have a drag racing set up.....and if anyone could kinda put together a basic shopping list i could get pricing on.....i hear so many options....i dont want to put a top shelf set up drag only set up...just something that will get results with my current set up....
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as of now- ARF 180 heads, cc305, re-built bottom end, 3000 stall in re-built 4l60E, 4.10 in the rear......and still slow...lookingformore...still
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02-13-2012, 10:35 PM
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#5
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12 Second Club / Bullwinkle
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Old Bridge, NJ/Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 1,847
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Adj Torque arm
LCAs
LCA relocation brackets
Subframe connectors
Drag bar or bigger rear sway bar
If you want to do it on the cheap (meaning not an all out set up) as far as springs/shocks go:
Competition engineering 3 way adj drag shocks
V6 springs or eibach drag launch springs
As far as front struts/shocks go, I would go with some qa1 coilovers (in the rear too of you can afford it)...
Just my recommendation. There are other ways of doing it, but that is the way I have (and plan on doing) mine...
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1994 Medium Patriot Red Z28 6spd
370ci/Huron Speed T6 S480 ET-R HO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by WSex
who is FFB?
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An NJFBOA legend. Ask about him at the next meet. |
Last edited by coolmanvette75; 02-13-2012 at 10:35 PM.
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02-14-2012, 07:30 AM
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#6
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Please do not get drag launch springs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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02-14-2012, 08:15 AM
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#7
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
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Yeah I run stock rear springs. Most improvement will come from front shocks, torque arm, and a drag bar.
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02-18-2012, 09:10 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vernon, New jersey
Posts: 29
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Thankx guys....dont think ill be getting the drag launch springs....everything else though...i have sub frame connectors welded in already and a torque arm......qa1 are the ones i was thinking too.....i'll let you guys know how the new set up works this spring.....havent been to the track in two or three years....miss it.....besides these minors upgrades to what i already have....anything else worth doing to the car during this season.....
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as of now- ARF 180 heads, cc305, re-built bottom end, 3000 stall in re-built 4l60E, 4.10 in the rear......and still slow...lookingformore...still
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02-19-2012, 07:36 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hawthorne, New Jersey
Posts: 516
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Any replacement parts are going to compliment your setup better then 15 year old stock parts. Even a OE replacement sensatrac.
I dont know your exact situation but I wouldnt go crazy on adjustables and all that jazz if you were just trying to flip the car..
Just talking, are you trying to sell it? Does it sit around most of the time? Are you really going to turn those adjustment knobs more then twice or is it a novelty that is going to wear off fast?
Not ball breaking but ive seen it happen a ton. Ive installed adjustables on cars and trucks because the owners have wanted the ability to "tune the ride" only to see the knobs rusted in place from sitting/never moving.
A few years back I bought a bunch of new suspension equipment and a couple years ago installed it (hah hah hah). I went from stock everything to UMI torque arm/panhard/LCAs with reloc brackets and a wolfe 6 point bar welded in. I got the UMI subframes too but they are currently modding my garage wall. When it came to springs and shocks/struts I grabbed some kind of OE eibach spring from Alex Q (Firehawk factory spring maybe? Idk hell if i remember) and the matching bilstein shocks.
The result is a nice handling ride thats not to hard but GREATLY better then stock.
A recap: Buy whats going to fit your needs for the amount of time your in the car. Is it a DD? You (like me) have not been to the track in years, so I would look at building it to improve it overall, not just for the occasional trip to the track.
Just my .02
PS If your going to ask me how my suspension only upgrades helped me at the track..ill "let you know in the spring". ;p
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02-19-2012, 09:16 PM
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#10
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
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With my strange fronts, I loosen them at the track and ride around town at mid valving. If you don't adjust them, that's just dumb.
As a suggestion, I would put the knobs facing inward so you can reach around the tire and adjust them rather than trying to get between the wheel or having to remove the wheel.
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02-26-2012, 03:25 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vernon, New jersey
Posts: 29
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Good thought......i never drive this car except to go to the track really.....i will consider this when doing the suspension tweaks....
__________________
as of now- ARF 180 heads, cc305, re-built bottom end, 3000 stall in re-built 4l60E, 4.10 in the rear......and still slow...lookingformore...still
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