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01-09-2012, 08:14 AM
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#101
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Highland Mills, NY
Posts: 1,915
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If you aren't pulling the head I would try and check cylinder leak down on that cylinder to make sure that valve never contacted the piston. .
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2000 Camaro SS 610rwhp/570rwtq LS2 440, 12 bolt 3.73, tranzilla t56
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01-09-2012, 08:34 AM
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#102
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
and a fram. nice.
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It's a Purolator. I don't even put Frams on my saturn. And I'll clean the engine bay once I fix the leak. There is simply too much on the to-do list to worry about my engine bay cleanliness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER
Jake,
There is a preload tolerance amount for the lifters.They are hydraulic so you don't have to spot on.measure w/a dial indicator from time pushrod just touches rocker to completely bolted down. you want 50 -100 thousands preload.
Example: with 7.350 pushrods, if you have 150 thousands preload, you want to go with 7.275 or max of 7.300 length rods.
Depending on head milling and decking of block, head gasket thickness, you will need anywhere between
7.300 and 7.400. I have yet to build one that needed under 7.300.
most are 7.350-7.400.
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I'll look into that. I've never messed with a dial indicator before, but after looking quickly, if they can't be rented, they aren't expensive at all. I found another method on a GH High Tech article using a pushrod length checker and caliper which I already have on order
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFirstZ
If you aren't pulling the head I would try and check cylinder leak down on that cylinder to make sure that valve never contacted the piston. .
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Good idea. I'll do that.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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Last edited by qwikz28; 01-09-2012 at 08:43 AM.
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01-09-2012, 11:15 AM
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#103
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
and a fram. nice.
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Surely you know about SureGrip
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01-11-2012, 02:55 PM
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#104
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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Hey guys-
I need a bit of help. I removed the valve covers again today and I found all the broken pieces of that rocker. I had to remove the two rockers (the springs appeared to be fully extended) to get to the broken piece but I was able to reassemble the rocker with the broken piece so I am confident that I got, at least, all the large pieces together.
Anyway, I also now have the borescope which I purchased, but I don't know where to stick it to check the lifter. The pushrod seems fine (and its a 7.400 btw) as far as I can tell, but I don't really think the borescope I bought can fit into the hole for the pushrod. Am I going to have to remove a valve spring? I have never done that before. What should I do?
Thanks again guys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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01-11-2012, 03:17 PM
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#105
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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You need to look into the hole in the head where the pushrod travels through. Lifter is directly down in that hole about 4 3/4 inches below that opening.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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01-11-2012, 03:25 PM
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#106
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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see lifter in hole?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
Last edited by S.J.SLEEPER; 01-11-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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01-11-2012, 03:32 PM
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#107
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER
You need to look into the hole in the head where the pushrod travels through. Lifter is directly down in that hole about 4 3/4 inches below that opening.
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Can I just peek in, or do I need a borescope?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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01-11-2012, 03:34 PM
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#108
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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i just took that pic with my Lg smartphone.
need to use bright light and should be able to see retaining clip.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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01-11-2012, 03:39 PM
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#109
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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you want to make sure retaing clip is still seated properly...see pic below.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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01-11-2012, 03:46 PM
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#110
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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Curt-
Thanks for taking the time to get and post that picture for me. So, if that retaining clip is there, and seated properly, I'm good to go?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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01-11-2012, 04:16 PM
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#111
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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yup!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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01-11-2012, 04:29 PM
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#112
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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Awesome! Thanks again for your help! I think I still have your number by the way, next time I'm in Barnegat, I'd like to swing by your garage if you are working on your car to shoot the **** and see the build in person.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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01-11-2012, 10:02 PM
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#113
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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No problem Jake, Anytime!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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01-13-2012, 10:23 AM
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#114
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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One more problem (I actually don't know that for a fact, but I sure hope it is smooth sailing after this). The Yella Terras were stud mounted, while the OEMs are pedestal mount. I recall reading that the springs need to be fully extended before replacing the rockers. I can't do that though because I need the entire 8 rockers on each bank to be removed before I can put the pedestal down. What do I do? Is there any harm in just replacing them all at once, even if some of the springs are compressed? Will I have to retorque them after I spin the motor to get them such that the valves are closed?
Edit: Nevermind, misread the instructions on LS1Howto. Got it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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Last edited by qwikz28; 01-13-2012 at 07:59 PM.
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02-20-2012, 10:41 AM
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#115
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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Finally got around to removing the intake.
Yuck!
And lastly, the intake:
There was some gas accumulated by the injector, and because of that damage to the composite pictured above, I am going to err on the side of caution and replace the intake.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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03-16-2012, 11:54 PM
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#116
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13 Second Club / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Posts: 8,689
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I got the car running yesterday. The valvetrain is SUBSTANTIALLY quieter. I mean, the ticking of the valvetrain could be heard in the car over the exhaust, and is now completely gone. There was definitely something wrong before, but whatever it was, it is gone now.
In other news, it all has to come back apart. Buttoning it back on, I misspoke and told my cousin to torque the valve cover bolts to the same torque as the rockers; 22ft/lbs. He ended up snapping the first one. Not his fault, completely mine. Wasn't paying attention when he asked. I tried drilling out the middle of the broken bolt and using a screw extractor, and naturally made it worse. I just left that screw undone and plugged up the hole in the valve cover with the broken bolt and some glue. I'm going to need new heads. It is what it is. For now, the car runs, but I can't really drive it with the hole being covered up with only glue.
Anyway, thanks for all the help guys. I obviously couldn't have done it without you guys. I'm going to order new heads soon (probably going for some milled, ported AIs) and have the car running before the end of next month, hopefully.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Except Jersey mike, great kid, but the way he looks at me makes me feel like im in danger
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03-17-2012, 12:10 AM
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#117
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: west orange nj
Posts: 2,415
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im glad you finally figured it out
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