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04-01-2012, 12:16 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Posts: 777
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Just want some thoughts on this....
But before I go any further, please, I KNOW rattle can jobs are not generally approved. Eventually I will get this thing painted right. But for now I would like to address that failed third gen paint job that is flaking off. Would like to at least get the car in one color again. I don't want to go the Maaco route, because that may just create more work in the long run.
I know a few people here have painted their cars with a roller, I also know some people rattle can the car. Right now I have everything from bare metal, to rust, to etch primer and original paint. Here is what I'm thinking.
Strip the original paint off everything using airplane paint stripper. Decals included. The plastic pieces I'll wait til someone has a better suggestion, but it sounds from talking with body guys that sandpaper is better there. Anyway, strip off everything with airplane stripper, take the rust down to metal as far as I can go. Hit the car with Rust Encapsulator, then primer, then maybe....(I don't know how far I will take it.) color. I will likely just stop at primer and use an all weather primer that can handle water. I would paint the car in my garage but my air compressor I believe is only 10 gallons, I don't think that is enough to do a decent job. Not to mention the fumes linger.
Should I go through the trouble? Or should I just hit the places that are bare metal, treat the rust, then leave it til I get the money to have the rot fixed and the body painted right?
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04-01-2012, 03:04 AM
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#2
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Highland Mills, NY
Posts: 1,915
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Is it worth the investment of time and effort for you? And do you think it will come good enough for you to be satisfied till you can do full paint.
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2000 Camaro SS 610rwhp/570rwtq LS2 440, 12 bolt 3.73, tranzilla t56
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04-01-2012, 03:28 AM
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#3
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12 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oradell
Posts: 8,370
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ive had good luck with Macco (saddle brook), do the prep work urself, they do a final sanding and paint and i think its worth every penny, both of my 88 Camaros were done there, one artic white and one medium maui blue metallic
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88 Camaro
95 Impala SS
97 Trans Am WS6
98 Blazer ZR2
00 Corvette
04 CTS-V
04 Grand Cherokee
07 Sublime Charger Daytona
09 Grand Cherokee Limited HEMI
12 Tahoe LT
17 Malibu LT
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04-01-2012, 09:24 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Posts: 777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maroman88
ive had good luck with Macco (saddle brook), do the prep work urself, they do a final sanding and paint and i think its worth every penny, both of my 88 Camaros were done there, one artic white and one medium maui blue metallic
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Will they go as far as replacing the floors? If not then I'll consider the them for the paint work and have the metal work done by someone else. I'd do it myself, however welding isn't exactly my area or expertise. I can do it, just won't be pretty. I found I was a better painter than welder when I was in school but that was a couple years ago. I've prepped some cars in the past so I know whats involved. How far did you go? I can disassemble the trim and take apart the GFX blah blah blah. Hell, I'd go as far as removing the bumper covers and rear spoiler.
I do know I need to completely strip the paint off the metal as its flaking off. Once it does that you've got no choice and it has to come off.
Now the car does have rot issues on the floor, the rockers, a couple spots in the back and in front of the drivers door under the fender. But this one is saveable. The T top bar was pristine. And I could easily do a lot worse here in the north east.
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04-01-2012, 09:51 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Milford
Posts: 1,026
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Check your pm. Also for a rattle can job, just hit all low areas to make them even and just apply. Most likely, the next body guy will redo the work to make it perfect so your essentially doing it twice...this is just for the interium and not permenant so don't go overboard.
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04-01-2012, 10:40 AM
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#6
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12 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oradell
Posts: 8,370
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i removed the spoiler, emblems and all the lights, sanded the chipped up bumper covers and filled a few dings before bringing for paint, it was a completely rust free car so i didnt have that issue, but i wouldnt let them weld floors in
__________________
88 Camaro
95 Impala SS
97 Trans Am WS6
98 Blazer ZR2
00 Corvette
04 CTS-V
04 Grand Cherokee
07 Sublime Charger Daytona
09 Grand Cherokee Limited HEMI
12 Tahoe LT
17 Malibu LT
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04-18-2012, 01:49 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 77
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Ive had great luck with maaco too and you cant beat a thousand dollar paint job. Just stay away from the single stage jobs they have for cheap and get the singature series which is base coat clear coat.
__________________
99 Z28 A4, Mufflex 4" catback, SLP lid and ram air, bbk 80mm tb, GMS MAS, Ls6 Intake, poly mm's, pacesetter lts and ORY, REVMAX 3600 Stall, Founders PH Bar and LCA's with relocation brackets, qa1 front coilovers with 300lb springs, heater hose mod, umi tunnel mount torque arm with ds loop. ACE Racing 4l60e, 3.42s.
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04-18-2012, 03:11 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Posts: 777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilz99
Ive had great luck with maaco too and you cant beat a thousand dollar paint job. Just stay away from the single stage jobs they have for cheap and get the singature series which is base coat clear coat.
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Yeah I know someone who went that route, the single stage job lasted awhile but it was spider cracking in several areas after 2 or 3 years. No matter what I do I was going base clear. As I've said, my car has rust issues that need to be fixed right. Not insane but I'd like it done right. A couple patches here and here, a new battery tray, maybe new floors and that should be it.
If the car is complete and a runner maybe I'll have the SFCs welded in if they're willing to do it and do it right (on a drive on lift). I need a motor and a few misc brake parts, other than that its tires and an alignment. That should be it mechanically. Providing no new problems crop up in test runs. Assuming I have it running by the end of summer, (if I just drop a Vortec motor in and go leaving upgrades for later) I may have it painted within the next year or two.
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04-20-2012, 10:48 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 77
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yeah if you have a lot of body work than I dont know if I would go the maaco route. But if you know a body work guy you may be able to pay him to do it and go to maaco and still be a lot cheaper and look just as good...
If you go to maaco just do like you should with any other paint shop. CHECK CHECK CHECK! Look at that bi*ch with a fine tooth comb and if you find something they will fix it with out a problem. My friend hit a deer and had took his previously PERFECT SS to Ideal body and frame in Vineland, Which is supposed to be one of the best in the area. His insurance got charged 8K!!!!!!! And you wouldnt believ the screw ups he was left with. They fixed it but still a pain in the ass to deal with from "one of the best"...
__________________
99 Z28 A4, Mufflex 4" catback, SLP lid and ram air, bbk 80mm tb, GMS MAS, Ls6 Intake, poly mm's, pacesetter lts and ORY, REVMAX 3600 Stall, Founders PH Bar and LCA's with relocation brackets, qa1 front coilovers with 300lb springs, heater hose mod, umi tunnel mount torque arm with ds loop. ACE Racing 4l60e, 3.42s.
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04-21-2012, 04:00 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Posts: 777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilz99
If you go to maaco just do like you should with any other paint shop. CHECK CHECK CHECK! Look at that bi*ch with a fine tooth comb and if you find something they will fix it with out a problem. My friend hit a deer and had took his previously PERFECT SS to Ideal body and frame in Vineland, Which is supposed to be one of the best in the area. His insurance got charged 8K!!!!!!! And you wouldnt believ the screw ups he was left with. They fixed it but still a pain in the ass to deal with from "one of the best"...
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I was looking over the lot at the Pine Island Macco, a couple of cars really did look quite good. Ofc, it was Easter Sunday so they weren't open. But I know where it is. I'm def going to talk to them about the metal work. I have a name for a guy in NC to go to for paint but its NC. I'd paint it myself, but I'm in a rural neighborhood, people might complain. If they feel the metal work will be an issue, or I don't get a good vibe from them about it, I have a few options more local to ask about having the metalwork done.
I'm surprised insurance didn't total it with that much damage, they totalled my brother's WRX with less money in repairs.
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04-21-2012, 09:35 PM
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#11
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Power Member / trans break does not equal transbrake
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Meadowlands
Posts: 4,513
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ive done 2 cars with rattle cans, and 1 car with a gun in my driveway. zero painting expirience at all.
prep the car like no tommaro, and go at it nice and easy. dont lay on the paint heavy or itll look like junk. just go nice and easy with the rattle can and it doesnt come out half bad.
__________________
99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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04-21-2012, 11:09 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L695speed
I was looking over the lot at the Pine Island Macco, a couple of cars really did look quite good. Ofc, it was Easter Sunday so they weren't open. But I know where it is. I'm def going to talk to them about the metal work. I have a name for a guy in NC to go to for paint but its NC. I'd paint it myself, but I'm in a rural neighborhood, people might complain. If they feel the metal work will be an issue, or I don't get a good vibe from them about it, I have a few options more local to ask about having the metalwork done.
I'm surprised insurance didn't total it with that much damage, they totalled my brother's WRX with less money in repairs.
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the camaro had like 25k on it so it was like right on the line of being totaled the adjuster actually told him if one more thing was damaged they would have.
The maaco I use is on fries mill rd in turnersville and they are notorious in the area for being the best and only maaco to go to
__________________
99 Z28 A4, Mufflex 4" catback, SLP lid and ram air, bbk 80mm tb, GMS MAS, Ls6 Intake, poly mm's, pacesetter lts and ORY, REVMAX 3600 Stall, Founders PH Bar and LCA's with relocation brackets, qa1 front coilovers with 300lb springs, heater hose mod, umi tunnel mount torque arm with ds loop. ACE Racing 4l60e, 3.42s.
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04-26-2012, 04:09 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilz99
The maaco I use is on fries mill rd in turnersville and they are notorious in the area for being the best and only maaco to go to
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really? I live right down the street. what level paint job did you go with?
Last edited by usp55; 04-26-2012 at 04:09 PM.
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