Ran at ATco for the first time

[coolmanvette75]

IMO there is no such thing of a good and cheap converter. Theres good and theres cheap, chose one. Spending the coin on the converter. It will make you much happier in the long run

[NJ Torque]

Originally Posted by townsend

and on the converter thing. i literally NEED the most cost effective best solution...i dont have much money to waste, and i dont want to buy parts that im gonna regret or need to replace in a few months. ill look into circle d.

anyone used precision lock-up converters before?

id be happier than a pig in s*** to run a 12.99...id shut enough people up around here..too many kids think they are really fast in their basic bolt-on imports with a boost setting 3psi higher than stock (subie guys), you take em to the track once and all of a sudden their car has something wrong...they just dont want to admit they lost to a camaro.

The vigiliante line is good...

I would say run a PTC, cheap and a good unit.

[evilz99]

I can tell you I researched the ***** out of my revmax before I got it and I will tell you I could not find ONE negative thing about them from someone that actually HAD one of their products and have talked to MANY MANY people with them and they all LOVE them not sure where harmony is but I'm in millville you are more than welcome to come and take my car down the road and see how you like it before you make a decision. Just sayin if I was sellinga circle D I would say go circle d too HAHA Rev max=400$ everyone else=799$ no thanks I will stay with what I got that works fine for me but some people need that fancy name to feel warm and fuzzy inside but when I get cold, I can burn the 399 dollar bills I saved a lot longer than 1 yank, vig, or circle D sticker LMAO....

[sweetbmxrider]

If you are going to do a 503, get a good converter and some good tires and see how she does.

Isn't a Revmax converter just a cavalier converter? I wouldn't want to throw any sort of power at it and they aren't going to be efficient. When the $400 you saved lets go and you now need a trans, I'll chuckle a little.

[evilz99]

chuckle all you want their is a gto on ls1tech local to here that has been running 10s on it for years, but I guess thats not throwing power at it I'll chuckle a lot

[sweetbmxrider]

We can only imagine what's being left on the table. For the money, it is probably a fun converter on a mild setup. I wouldn't want to play with over 400 flywheel hp with one though. Spend a little now or spend a lot later when clutch material ends up in your trans.

[evilz99]

whatever dude like I said people running 10s on them for 2 years with no complaints with a **** ton of runs on them with nitrous on top of it means nothing... Not year to measure di*ks or wallets. Just giving opinions on some thing I HAVE and DRIVE not something I never owned...
Last I have to say on the topic OP can make his own decision all I was doing was giving him my experience with them.
I will say this op, make a post on here and ls1tech asking people who HAVE them what their opinions are before you listen to people with no experiance with the product... if you search on ls1tech you will find numerous articles, videos and opinions/reviews on them that can help you make your decision. Also they are a sponsor on ls1tech and give discounts...

[LTb1ow]

Since you wanna talk bout you drive and run, I cut 1.59s with a circle D, what do you cut on your revmax?

My trans ran remarkably cool, cruising sat around 150* area and never ran hot after a few back to back passes, what does your trans run at?

During the many times I had changed the trans fluid for issues unrelated to the torque converter, it always was nice shiny red without flakes or any hint of burnt fluid, any insight on yours?

Originally Posted by evilz99

whatever dude like I said people running 10s on them for 2 years with no complaints with a **** ton of runs on them with nitrous on top of it means nothing... Not year to measure di*ks or wallets. Just giving opinions on some thing I HAVE and DRIVE not something I never owned...
Last I have to say on the topic OP can make his own decision all I was doing was giving him my experience with them.
I will say this op, make a post on here and ls1tech asking people who HAVE them what their opinions are before you listen to people with no experiance with the product... if you search on ls1tech you will find numerous articles, videos and opinions/reviews on them that can help you make your decision. Also they are a sponsor on ls1tech and give discounts...

AFAIK, that statement refers to one guy in a GTO correct? I am not trying to bash the product cause obviously they work great for stock to mid power range cars. However, I have not come across one behind a decently quick car that repeatedly cuts good 60fts.



Essentially, thats why you want a nice verter, they don't come with a ring welded to a stock verter that had been tweaked to stall higher. For the record, I ran a mystery cheapo stall with a similar setup... ring welded to it etc, and never cut as good 60fts as the new circle D that replaced it.

[sweetbmxrider]

Originally Posted by evilz99

whatever dude like I said people running 10s on them for 2 years with no complaints with a **** ton of runs on them with nitrous on top of it means nothing... Not year to measure di*ks or wallets. Just giving opinions on some thing I HAVE and DRIVE not something I never owned...
Last I have to say on the topic OP can make his own decision all I was doing was giving him my experience with them.
I will say this op, make a post on here and ls1tech asking people who HAVE them what their opinions are before you listen to people with no experiance with the product... if you search on ls1tech you will find numerous articles, videos and opinions/reviews on them that can help you make your decision. Also they are a sponsor on ls1tech and give discounts...

I understand what you are trying to say. I have experience with $1k converters, $700 converters, and $300 cavalier converters. I know that for the money they are fun for mild builds. I know that they won't perform as well as a quality converter because they simply can't. I know they weld an adapter ring and drop in a new stator. I know the lockup clutch is smaller than stock. I know that sooner or later, they all will fail. I know that they are inefficient on the top end. I know this because I've been through it. I strongly suggest against that route because I know its the wrong way to do things.

[evilz99]

Like I said before. I made my last syaement on the product. But yes my trans fluid is always clear shiny red, trans stay at 150 to 160 degrees even hot lapping it 4 times. As for 60 ft first of all let's compare suspension than let's compare how many runs you have in Yur car since i have only been tk the track once in mine then let's compare Rims and tires and every other difference between sixtys. Like I have said twice now. I'm not measuring dicks. This my last comment on the topic. I can care less what everyone else uses. And yes I would say they ate mild to low power converters. But seeing that this guy is trying tk fo 12s I would say he not trying to make huge power and maybe thays all he can afford rogjt now. If i was making upwards of 500 HP I may consider a different route but rigjt now I am way within the limits of a revmax. And will most likely stay there.
Think thw topic has been dragged behind a truck long enough now so why not ne mature and let it go. I am.

[sweetbmxrider]

What if you mods down the road that warrant a need to hold 500+ fwhp? It gives you room to grow. So speaking from experience yet again, if he is on a budget and is doing a mild build he should stick with a lesser expensive converter. I still don't like the fact that its a cavalier converter. I have no problem discussing this as it helps open up all sides of the spectrum that are open for interpretation. You have your opinion and I have mine, anyone can read both and gather their own opinion. I am done with throwing inferior parts at my car and having to redo things. I try to save people time and money by having them do things right the first time. If it requires more money, then take your time and save more money until you can do it the best way. Its worth the wait in the long run.

[grazi]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

What if you mods down the road that warrant a need to hold 500+ fwhp? It gives you room to grow. So speaking from experience yet again, if he is on a budget and is doing a mild build he should stick with a lesser expensive converter. I still don't like the fact that its a cavalier converter. I have no problem discussing this as it helps open up all sides of the spectrum that are open for interpretation. You have your opinion and I have mine, anyone can read both and gather their own opinion. I am done with throwing inferior parts at my car and having to redo things. I try to save people time and money by having them do things right the first time. If it requires more money, then take your time and save more money until you can do it the best way. Its worth the wait in the long run.

So Diplomatic

[evilz99]

O my god dude let it go lol. Both points have been made several times. It's done lol. Is this like a battle for last word or something? If so, than you can come to my birthday party and I'm telling mommy that you looked at me. Lmao. Let it die bro. It's not that serious.

[townsend]

woaaah crap guys calm down lol. i feel bad for essentially jacking griffs thread about his/my new car.

and im not trying to go cheap on anything. i am saying i want to buy quality stuff one time..not cheap s*** thats gonna leave me hanging on the side of 78 coming home from englishtown or something. cost effective in that way, by no means cheap.

and once again thank you all for your input...

i think im gonna look into a circle d and maybe buy yours LTb1ow if its not gonna cost as much as a new one to have it restalled etc. i still need to get the cash together for that lt1 shortblock if you didnt get rid of it yet.

NEW NEWS: no skimping or anything. i want this car to run great and not worry about driving it anywhere, yet be nasty and fast and nasty fast. so im gonna be asking alot of questions in the tech section and doing alot of research. convinced the wife that spending more and doing it right the first time beats building a whimp and spending more next year...

[98tadriver]

2500 converter is a waste of time and money lol. go with a 3200-3600. Youll be very happy. I have a 3400 in the vette right now and it drives like stock @ part throttle and cruise. I plan on going with a 4000-4200 soon and if i remember correctly, a good rule of thumb is your trans temp shouldnt be more than 100degrees over the ambient (outside temp) except for maybe when its really cold outside lol

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by 98tadriver

2500 converter is a waste of time and money lol. go with a 3200-3600. Youll be very happy. I have a 3400 in the vette right now and it drives like stock @ part throttle and cruise. I plan on going with a 4000-4200 soon

Buy my circle D

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Buy my circle D

lol cool name! sorry bud I spoke with chris a lil while back, and will be having one built for my specific application.

[Slow-V6]

I love my Revmax 3200 converter.. My 95 Firehawk has gone 13.4 with a 1.9 60' and the only mod is the converter, Airfoil, and MSD Coil. Have had it in the car for almost 3 yrs now. I think I paid a little under 300.00 shipped for it. You get what you pay for and I sure as hell did. I would buy a Revmax for any car I would want to do a Converter in. The only regret is that I didnt go with a 3600 converter. If we dont sell the car I will probably do Headers, and maybe gears and it will be a solid 12 second car. Hell if I could cut a 1.6 60' it would be a 12 second car the way it stands now. Every thread I read on Tech about revmax are only positive experiences. I did alot of research on them when I got my converter before they became LS1tech sponsors. Mine was purchased on ebay after I called them personally and told them what I wanted and what I had planned for the car.

[Slow-V6]

Originally Posted by townsend

woaaah crap guys calm down lol. i feel bad for essentially jacking griffs thread about his/my new car.

and im not trying to go cheap on anything. i am saying i want to buy quality stuff one time..not cheap s*** thats gonna leave me hanging on the side of 78 coming home from englishtown or something. cost effective in that way, by no means cheap.

and once again thank you all for your input...

i think im gonna look into a circle d and maybe buy yours LTb1ow if its not gonna cost as much as a new one to have it restalled etc. i still need to get the cash together for that lt1 shortblock if you didnt get rid of it yet.

NEW NEWS: no skimping or anything. i want this car to run great and not worry about driving it anywhere, yet be nasty and fast and nasty fast. so im gonna be asking alot of questions in the tech section and doing alot of research. convinced the wife that spending more and doing it right the first time beats building a whimp and spending more next year...

The fact is that the more power you make the more **** breaks. If you want to drive your car anywere then leave it alone and dont start dumping money into it. Once you start with H/C/I, Big stall, ect then **** will start breaking.


You could have the best converter, most expensive converter known to man but then your tranny goes out or the rear end breaks. The more power you make the greater the risk of you breaking something.

Also for your train of thought if you want the so called best converter for your car and not skimp out then get a Yank converter.

[townsend]

Essentially why im fixing the bugs now and building a new motor and trans