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11-29-2012, 03:08 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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jeep issue need help diagnosing
hey everyone i know this isnt a jeep forum but everyone here always offers great information. im a member of jeep forum and from what ive seen if you post an issue on there they either refer you back to the common problem threads or you'll be left with probably 30 different reasons why your jeep is screwing up.
anyways...got my jeep back from the shop today for some rear end work, make it home fine. taking it around for a test drive after it stalls. starts back up if i hit the gas a little bit while turning the key. driving around more, it gets worse. if i rev the engine to 2.5k in park, the rpm needle will just come straight down to 0 and stall. start it back up again it fires up with a little foot on the gas, drive around mess around with some electronics like flip the heat all the way on...it stalls again lol. that was weird im not sure why it did that. sometimes also the rpm needle after i hit the gas goes from .5k to 1k back to .5k.
im thinking its a fuel issue...since i got it i havent done anything with the fuel system. if anyone thinks its anything different let me know. either way i can guarantee it could benefit from a new filter or at the very least some fuel injector cleaner. are there any tell tale signs of the fuel pump about to take a crap? any input would be great guys thanks a lot.
Jon
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
Last edited by madness410; 11-29-2012 at 03:13 PM.
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11-29-2012, 04:14 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,634
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Is this a 4.0 jeep? Might be the crank position sensor.
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1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
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11-29-2012, 04:23 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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5.2...yeah ive been reading on that too on jeep forum. seems like everyone there will add in their .02 of what it can be and at the end of the thread you'll have 30 reasons why your car is acting up lol.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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11-29-2012, 04:37 PM
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#4
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
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Any codes?
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Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO
2018 Silverado 1500
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11-29-2012, 04:45 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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the check engine light isnt on...i do have a scanner tool i could plug in but currently my brother has it. ill check tomorrow.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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11-29-2012, 06:05 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Galloway, NJ
Posts: 591
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Couple common problems I've heard, the TPS.. the IAC... I've had my jeep do this to me for a few days, I swapped out the battery and IAC and strangely enough it hasnt done it to me in a couple days.. probably just the stupid sensors.
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.9
1998 Camaro, 3.8L M5 Stock - SOLD
2001 Camaro Z28 M6 SLP LM1, Lid - FOR SALE
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11-29-2012, 07:26 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,634
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If I have it right, you're saying that the tach is reading incorrectly right before it stalls, right? That's why I mentioned the CPS. Not completely a shot in the dark, but the best I can do with the limited info available.
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1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
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11-29-2012, 07:36 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullittSVT
Couple common problems I've heard, the TPS.. the IAC... I've had my jeep do this to me for a few days, I swapped out the battery and IAC and strangely enough it hasnt done it to me in a couple days.. probably just the stupid sensors.
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yeah ive heard those also. ill check those out tomorrow make sure they arent loose or corroded.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Bishop
If I have it right, you're saying that the tach is reading incorrectly right before it stalls, right? That's why I mentioned the CPS. Not completely a shot in the dark, but the best I can do with the limited info available.
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nope the tach reads fine. it just shows how the motor is before it stalls. if i revved the motor up the 2.5k it would come straight back down to 0, stalling.
its weird though i took it for two separate rides after that and now it works fine. although sometimes it still seems like the rpms dip way under what they should, barely not stalling.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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11-29-2012, 10:15 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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yup problems back lol.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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11-30-2012, 06:51 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,634
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Ok, did you do this? -
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/h...-valve-756934/
Or replace it. Whatever floats your boat/makes your wallet happy. Also clean out the hole it mates into.
And afterwards disconnect your battery for 10-20 minutes to reset the PCM and let it re-learn the idle.
Fixed this for someone else a few years back and forgot all about it.
__________________
1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
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11-30-2012, 03:03 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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yeah thats the exact thread i was looking out yesterday. i didnt clean it though i replaced it completely...it was only 45 for a replacement. i didnt reset the pcm though ill go outside to reset it now. but it was still idling a bit funny and low when in park, when switched to neutral reverse or drive the rpms still fluctuated. not sure if thats normal but it was doing the same thing yesterday. however driving around i probably put 5-10 miles on it with the replacement it didnt even come close to stalling.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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12-03-2012, 12:39 AM
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#12
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jim Thorpe PA
Posts: 2,132
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The way its acting, what you described. Being able to start it with ur foot on the gas and it stalling when u take it off, its the IAC
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01 SS 383 stroker, Magnum F, 9in.
86 Trans-Am 355 t56
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12-03-2012, 07:38 AM
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#13
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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yes i replaced the iac the other day. i havent really had much of a chance to take it out for normal daily driving to see how it is...but i will take it out today and see how it goes. thanks for the input.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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12-04-2012, 06:12 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somerset, NJ
Posts: 4,223
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cleaned the iac and seems to work much better. hasnt stalled on me once. but now i think i have a trans problem. idk what it is
driving on the highway today at around 50-60 mph, i was just cruising not flooring it, at around 3k rpm, seems like it should have shifted into 4th but didnt. during normal driving around town, shifts through all the gears just fine but 3rd and 4th on the highway seem a little weird.
another thing is if i would let my foot off the gas completely it would stay at around 2-2.5k rpm and not drop down to idle.
when i got home i had the parts to do a transmission fluid change, which i did. checked in the pan after it was removed and it was clean, not even a splinter of metal in there. idk if its the trans acting up or if its another bad sensor or something.
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Jon
1999 Trans am WS6
1996 Corvette LT4 6 speed
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12-07-2012, 05:01 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Delran
Posts: 6,785
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i know this sounds so simple, but mostly whenever you do any type of work its common place to unhook the battery while working on it. im not familiar with these jeeps but i would take a shot with unhooking the battery and doing an idle relearn on it. it kinda reminds me of when i was young and was screwing around with my beretta. it did the same exact thing.
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12-15-2012, 01:05 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Southeast, PA / Brick, NJ (Lost due to Sandy)
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon
i know this sounds so simple, but mostly whenever you do any type of work its common place to unhook the battery while working on it. im not familiar with these jeeps but i would take a shot with unhooking the battery and doing an idle relearn on it. it kinda reminds me of when i was young and was screwing around with my beretta. it did the same exact thing.
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Typically a Jeep ECU reset:
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.
2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.
3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to on but do not start.
5. Turn the headlights on.
6. Turn the headlights off.
7. Turn the key off.
The ECU has been reset to factory conditions. For the first 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
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-Rick (Photographer)
- 2001 Trans AM WS6 - M6, ORY, Borla catback, etc.
- 1998 Trans Am - M6, functional Ram Air hood, Flowmaster, 3" QTP E-cutout, ORY, K&N FIPK, 3.42's, LSD, Hella 60mm Projectors, 4300K HID's & more.
- 2003 VW Golf TDI - Turbo diesel @ 50 MPG highway
- 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L(ZJ) - 4.75" lift, 32" MTZ's, armor, etc.
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