Rear swap question

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by LS1ow

I’ll feel like I’d rather sell the car than flare brake lines

Steal a hydraulic flare tool from work and get to it

[sweetbmxrider]

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71.../dp/B007TN15EG

Its the best. You can get 37.5* stuff for nawzzzzzzzz too!

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Steal a hydraulic flare tool from work and get to it

We dont have those, i asked when doing the line like the first time and my shop foreman laughed at me. Audi doesnt condone that. The whole line gets replaced and comes done already.

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71.../dp/B007TN15EG

Its the best. You can get 37.5* stuff for nawzzzzzzzz too!

dat amazon return policy doe...

[LS1ow]

instead of having to replace all the lines, i could just replace the commpression fittings with these?

Straight fitting to the rear line to complete 3 channel swap

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-323...origin=keyword

and a T for the fronts

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-466...origin=keyword

then just remake lines from line lock and prop valve?

[sweetbmxrider]

You have to flare the metal line to create a sealing surface. You can do it by hand or whatever tool you get to do it with. You would be doing the inverted "double" flare.

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

You have to flare the metal line to create a sealing surface. You can do it by hand or whatever tool you get to do it with. You would be doing the inverted "double" flare.

Ya I know dis. But instead of just redoing the whole lines I’ll be able to swap the compression fittings for the fittings I posted, right? I’ll just flare the lines.

I ordered a 3/16 flare tool from my matco guy at work. $60, figured it’ll be better than one of those $40 universal kits, but save me $ from the hydrolic kit on amazon

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by LS1ow

I ordered a 3/16 flare tool from my matco guy at work. $60, figured it’ll be better than one of those $40 universal kits, but save me $ from the hydrolic kit on amazon

Should be just fine. Doesn't look like you are flaring stainless. That can be the real bitch.

[sweetbmxrider]

You just need 1 tee for front lines. Just flare the one line you need for the rear and remove the other. You can use that union to extend the rear line if needed. The factory metal lines are pretty tough, have fun

[IROCZman15]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

Should be just fine. Doesn't look like you are flaring stainless. That can be the real bitch.

yup! I had to flare some stainless under the car back in feburary. as in, not off the car in a vice on a workbench, but laying on my back under the car with the line flailing all around as I worked on flaring it. next year that particular line is becoming nickle-copper, but for now my flare worked.


do some test flares on scrap pieces of line first too. just so you get the hang of it. brute force is not the way to go here. takes a few practice runs to start learning. a little brake fluid as lube on the flare's die can be helpful too.
also, try not to over tighten the fittings, the threads can strip easily and then you have to cut off your brand new flare, remove the fitting, hope you have enough spare line to make up the difference you just cut off, reflare etc.