2008 Jeep GC 3.7

[PolarBear]

Anyone know Jeeps? My friends jeep is having some problems and I don't know jeep for sht.
First was not being able to get the key out of the ignition. Its one of those keys with the RF proximity and the hole in the dash is square. It would release occassionally and could get the key out after waiting. Then I figured out there was a solenoid in the ignition box holding the key in, it was thinking the shift selector wasn't in park. If I moved the selector, while in park, back and over the little switch would activate the solenoid. That was onsistent for a few hours. I looked up on the net for solutions and was finally able to find one guy that removed the plunger from the solenoid. That did the trick and I was able to get the key out any time. I didn't think anything else of this problem and went in the house for the night. Go out to start it the next afternoon and the battery was dead. Jump it and drive it for a bit and then get back and turn it off but the retained accessory power is staying on with the ignition off. I pulled the ignition switch apart again and there is some liquid damage inside. It's a used ignition box though. I haven't looked very hard, but I can't seem to find new ones.
Anyone know if this is a hard to find part? Looks like Dodge had a recall on these

Second/third problem is I am getting a few codes that I will attach to the post. I tried changing the gas cap for the emissions code, but it looks like it hasn't cycled enough times for this to fix it, if it is the problem

Also the cruise control stops working. And there is a code for that. Not sure if it's the switch in the steering wheel or something greater to replace/fix
Also the ABS and traction control light is on. I am thinking wheel speed sensor(s)?

Any help is appreciated

[crazyblazer87]

So for the key, that ignition switch is known as the WIN module. Caravans used to always do what your problem is. I always had to change the module. You will need to get a scan tool so to get through the key security with also getting the security code from the dealership so to get the module programmed. Dealership can give it to you if you bring proof of ownership with you to the parts department.
Second, depends on what the code is for the emissions. The dash stating tighten gas cap is a dummy light pretty much. The car has detected a leak/ problem with the fuel vapor containment system. That could be a number of things. The leak detection pump (E.S.I.M) common failure, purge solenoid, any vapor line cracked, fuel tank/pump leak or rusted, charcoal canister to name a few.
The cruise control could be because of the abs problem. I would figure that out first to see if cruise control came back. You need to first find what fault code is present to even know where to start.

[PolarBear]

Sorry, I forgot to attach the image

[PolarBear]

The check gas cap message came on today so I told them to put the old gas cap back on.
Someone suggested I change the brake light switch under the dash and put the plunger back in the WIN module, as you called it. So I'm going to try that next. The switch is only like $6

[crazyblazer87]

If you just tightened the gas cap and didn't clear the code. The car needs to run its checks while driving and then do 2000 minutes of off time to run the small evap check. Yes it has to do that one as well in order to pass the tests and clear the codes. Most likely the brake switch will fix the brake and cruise control problem. The win module needs scanners and whatnot to program. That one you may have to bite the bullet and take to a shop/dealer.

[PolarBear]

I did learn about the dealer needing to program the WIN module. A friend of theirs said they can help with the dealer side, I guess he's a mechanic and said he can have them do it and it will be a minimal charge.
I did find the WIN module on the Rock Auto site now. It's live $310 compared to the $580 plus labor the dealer wanted. The WIN module only took me 5 minutes to R&R, so I definitely don't want to spend an extra $300+

[crazyblazer87]

You will have to change it in parking lot because it will not run once changed. Its stupid, but you have to do it there

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by crazyblazer87

You will have to change it in parking lot because it will not run once changed. Its stupid, but you have to do it there

I hadn't thought about doing it there. That's a good idea since it literally only took me 5 minutes. Would save time not waiting on the tow also.

I'm going Wednesday to change the brake light switch. Hopefully it fixes some of these issues because the car is not near me and I gotta take days off work to drive there

[crazyblazer87]

As a fellow mechanic that worked at the dealers, If you change it in the parking lot try to do it as close to the shop entrance as possible so the mechanic can either connect wireless to your car or so they can push it in easier. Get some brownie points with them. Haha