my new toy

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by bigz28man

anyone have any experience with rpmtransmission? Spoke with them yesterday, l may be going with their level 5 t56 trans, or does anyone have a good direction on where i should go with this? rebuild it or swap it? while it was over at tunetime mike their engine builder said he would rebuild it and make it pretty much bullet proof for 2K. I'm really beginning to hate this car

Call our sponsor, Bob Hanlon ->

Does great work.

[bigz28man]

I spoke with Bob's wife, the other day. I may be doing a roadside hand off with him on the trans. So I figured while the car is down for the reminder of the summer i would do the 3 pod A pillar gauge cluster, cant seem to find to many places that sell them for hard top f-bodies, found that speedhut sells them , does anyone else know where i can find this item at? Also should I get mechanical or electrical gauges from auto meter for the pods? also while the car is down i will be pulling out the front seats and painting the seat tracks, I also need a good carpet cleaner, the carpet is in really good shape but I'd like to make it perfect. I will be shimming the starter to get rid of the whinn when i go to start it (damn thing sounds like it has a blower) . Matt over tunetime informed me about pulling the rear cover off my moser rear and replacing the seal, anyone had to just replace the seal on a new rear? Matt said at about 500 miles the seal should be replaced... I said damn, more work.

[sweetbmxrider]

As far as I know, molded 3 pillar pods don't exist for the hardtops. If you can find one, I'd grab it. Usually they just have the kind that screws into the existing plastic. I would run electric gauges too.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by bigz28man

I spoke with Bob's wife, the other day. I may be doing a roadside hand off with him on the trans. So I figured while the car is down for the reminder of the summer i would do the 3 pod A pillar gauge cluster, cant seem to find to many places that sell them for hard top f-bodies, found that speedhut sells them , does anyone else know where i can find this item at? Also should I get mechanical or electrical gauges from auto meter for the pods? also while the car is down i will be pulling out the front seats and painting the seat tracks, I also need a good carpet cleaner, the carpet is in really good shape but I'd like to make it perfect. I will be shimming the starter to get rid of the whinn when i go to start it (damn thing sounds like it has a blower) . Matt over tunetime informed me about pulling the rear cover off my moser rear and replacing the seal, anyone had to just replace the seal on a new rear? Matt said at about 500 miles the seal should be replaced... I said damn, more work.

Depends what you are putting up there, but not knowing that I'd run electric gauges.

[bigz28man]

I know there has been many people out there looking for a full A pillar 3 gauge pod for hard-top camaro's so i found this and i just ordered it. speedhut says they have 2 left. I just figured I'd let everyone here know.

http://www.speedhut.com/product_deta...NUMBER-727.htm

[bigz28man]

so i'm about to purchase these three gauges from summitracing, but before i do can anyone tell me if I should go with anything different. ATM-2634, ATM-2635, ATM-2645. Or will these do the job. thanks guys

[WildBillyT]

Personally I'd do a shift light instead of the voltmeter.

[bigz28man]

I would do a shift light but where is a good spot to mount it without drilling holes into the car?

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by bigz28man

I would do a shift light but where is a good spot to mount it without drilling holes into the car?

Autometer makes ones that fit in one of the 3-hole pods. Or you can mount Raptor light basically anywhere.

I just think the voltmeter is a waste of space. You could do a scan gauge there too.

JMO.

[LTb1ow]

Fuel pressure, wideband, and maybe oil temp, but shift light would prob be better.

Other stuff, is cheesy and not really needed.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Fuel pressure, wideband, and maybe oil temp, but shift light would prob be better.

Other stuff, is cheesy and not really needed.

I dunno, a good oil pressure gauge is not a bad idea.

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

I dunno, a good oil pressure gauge is not a bad idea.

Perhaps, but on a new rebuild its gonna be pegged anyways. At least thats what I have seen from other builds.

Oil pressure is either good, or its not I don't see the need to see the pressure read out in exact accuracy, the stocker was fine for me to show that I had pressure and there was no slow drops in it over time. IMO of course.

[V]

Well, for my 3 extra gauges, I got boost, fuel pressure, and oil pressure. The more I think about it, I agree that I don't actually NEED the oil pressure gauge. I got it originally when I had planned to run a stand alone oiling system for the supercharger and it was going to just monitor that system. As long as the factory gauge shows that there is decent pressure, and exact reading isn't too important. On a full race car, yes Id say it is much more important, but for our basic street-able builds, stock one works. So now I gotta go back and look if I can find a good 3rd gauge to get, or just stick with 2 and change my mounting design.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Perhaps, but on a new rebuild its gonna be pegged anyways. At least thats what I have seen from other builds.

Oil pressure is either good, or its not I don't see the need to see the pressure read out in exact accuracy, the stocker was fine for me to show that I had pressure and there was no slow drops in it over time. IMO of course.

Originally Posted by V

Well, for my 3 extra gauges, I got boost, fuel pressure, and oil pressure. The more I think about it, I agree that I don't actually NEED the oil pressure gauge. I got it originally when I had planned to run a stand alone oiling system for the supercharger and it was going to just monitor that system. As long as the factory gauge shows that there is decent pressure, and exact reading isn't too important. On a full race car, yes Id say it is much more important, but for our basic street-able builds, stock one works. So now I gotta go back and look if I can find a good 3rd gauge to get, or just stick with 2 and change my mounting design.

My thinking was that the stock gauges are sometimes slow and do not react fast, so they can mask a flutter or something like that. I dunno.

[V]

most people wont watch an oil pressure gauge 100% of the time. Most will start the car, wait a few seconds, and look at the gauges, If they show good, thats all we really look for, yes they may be slow to react but if theres a sudden loss of pressure they still work. The split second delay it may have isnt gonna be a make or break situation in most cases. you're still gonna take the time to shut it off and get to the side of the road. Plus the stock gauges have the warning lights too which also in the event of pressure drop to 0, even with an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, will 90% of the time be the reason you know there's an issue.

I guess it really depends on the car though too. In my V, I have so many sensors and lights and warnings, they even come on through the 7" radio screen, that I think ill know if I have any serious oil issues. Also any time I race it at the track, I would be data logging it and reviewing all the runs. If i notice any concerns in the log that the gauge may not have illustrated, i can look at it further.

The stock tachometers are the gauges that most people say are the slowest to react. That's something a little more important to watch exactly to shift and such.

[bigz28man]

Ok so I have some decisions to make, i decieded to hold off on buying the gauges till the a-pillar came in .....which it did yesterday. I'll hit it with some charcoal spray paint and install. I did think about running a fuel pressure gauge only to see what pressure im getting but i figured once i take my reading at the rails do i really need to mointer fuel pressure. IDK i see it as what ever goes there is to help my investment . Thanks again guys, maybe I'll get the car back on the road to finish the summer out.

[bigz28man]

I figured I'd snap a photo of it for you guys.

[sweetbmxrider]

You should do a raptor shift light in that bottom defrost hole. I'd do a fuel pressure gauge, you can be driving and start to have issues and take note if the fuel pressure is correct or not. My pump was failing at high rpms under load which you couldn't determine without a gauge hooked up.

[bigz28man]

Thanks guys for all your help....i know thats what these forums are for, you know everyone lending helpfull advise. So I'll be doing a shift light, water temp, fuel pressure, and oil pressure gauges. Those seem to be the most important. Now once i get this car back on the road, it will be time to figure out how to get every last bit of hp out of this motor. Seeing that this car will never have any power adders ie. pro-charger, i dont know if I'll ever really get any more power out of it.

[bigz28man]

I was wondering, while the underside of the car is apart should I keep the pipping past the y-pipe off, till I get a better cat back system (borla) which wont be till after its painted?

[bigz28man]

Had these waiting on my front door step when i got home today. The UPS driver said to me last week...."man you must have soke kinda car, all i see is boxes of car parts coming to the house" i laughed and said its to bad you cant deliever my trans.

[bigz28man]

Went from this and after alittle bit of scrubbing and painting it, to this. It didn't come out that bad

[bigz28man]

So here is the new t56. Looks pretty badass.

[bigz28man]

Been talking back an forth with east coast superchargers about this new motor, they brought up a point of doing a 24x swap. Wanted to know what you guys thought about it. Would running a ls system be that much beneficial to this new motor?

[LTb1ow]

It makes it easier for them to tune, and makes you doubt that are a capable LT1 tuner.

Unless you repin your own harness, the premade harness from EFI connection is a 4-6 month backorder.