73 Camaro "Black Pearl"

[PolarBear]

Support, radiator, dual fans, overflow and brackets welded on for the A/C condenser for future purchase. I'll get that when I am closer to putting the AC in the car, probably next spring.

[BonzoHansen]

nice.

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

Yeah, pretty much. Wheels are my other big purchase this year.

[BonzoHansen]

just don't complain about money lol

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

just don't complain about money lol

When have I ever. Lol. I've been thinking about getting another useless car..... heh

[PolarBear]

70-73 Camaro ... 73 Camaro Radiator/Core Support with Overflow Bottle, LS Motor, Stock Sub-Frame, 1-1/4" Hose Connections 1,400.00

Dual Fans w/Sh... Dual Fans and shroud for Camaro 450.00

AC Brackets Ac Brackets 40.00

Subtotal 1,890.00

Freight 115.30

[WildBillyT]

[sweetbmxrider]

Its carbon fibear, right?

[PolarBear]

Aluminum, but that's OK. It's lighter than steel, it won't rust and it has a higher capacity radiator than what I have now and will look awesome doing it all

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by PolarBear

Aluminum, but that's OK

you should have it covered in c/f.

[PolarBear]

"Just one thing" today, haven't felt like working on the car much but I got my ass off the couch and into the garage today.

I put the diode in between the power lug and the crank lug on the starter so I don't have that induced voltage driving the starter since I am using the ford type relay right now.

I also finished looming the exposed wires near the heater delete plate, the alternator wire and the wire from the alternator that I will use to power my fan. For now I just butt spliced the wire in two places that was there from the previous owner and made it all look a little better. I also got a relay kit that has the correct pins for the connectors to the ECM. I have to take the connectors off and put the pi n in the proper terminal, then the fan will be controlled by the computer rather than the temperature sensor/relay module that was in the car when I bought it.

I am really close to being able to drive it now. I have to swap out the 3rd gen intermediate steering shaft with the collapsible Borgeson unit with the U joints, put the sheet metal and nose on the car, front light harness, rubber under carpet shifter boot and the alignment. Just a few other little things under the dash to finish and I should be able to drive this thing. Other winter project is to put the e-brake cables together under the car so I can finally use that too. Also have to run two wires for the reverse circuit and pin in the reverse lockout solenoid.

Monday is MLK day, so I plan on attempting to use that time to get a little more done on the car, maybe the under dash stuff......

[PolarBear]

Got "one more thing" done today. The little tab for the headlight switch wouldn't fit in the aluminum gauge panel so I used my jewelers file to make the slotted part a little larger and the switch back in place. Tightened the jamb nut for the fuel pressure regulator.

I also did my alignment and tightened up all the jamb nuts and pivot bolts for the SPC upper arms. The alignment isn't perfect, but it should do for now and it will be quite close if/when I get it to a shop. I got about -1° of camber and 5.25° castor on the drivers side and -1° and 5.5° on the passenger side. Still have to set the toe and put all the cotter pins in the steering linkage and then grease all the fittings, upper and lower.

Also put the pin in the computer for the fan, not I just have to go out there with the laptop and try to figure out how to make it turn on Fan #1 since the trucks didn't get electric fans for that year(s)

Also learned that the new lower valence I got doesn't fit that well, I think. I don't have a good GM one necessarily to measure against. Time will tell when I start really bolting that all together. The Carbon nose is also going to a total pain to fit, holes in the carbon piece don't line up in the lower valence, Anvil should have just left the holes out and let the fitter/body guy drill the holes in the appropriate place. Now I am going to have to fill the holes, or put a backer piece of metal there to sandwich the fiberglass, the latter is easier since I can just trim a piece to length and then lay over the lower valence, drill holes in that and then use a nut and screw through all three pieces.

I also learned that, at the very least, my drivers fender has some plastic in it from what looks like a minor accident. Oh well, my cousin will fix that in the future Oh and something in the accessory drive is now squeaking


Sheet metal, radiator support bushings, shifter boot, tighten clutch/brake cross bolt, and tarq lug nuts left to do

[BonzoHansen]

How did you align it?

[PolarBear]

With my SPC Fastrax that I bought

[PolarBear]

"Drove" the pearl today



Switched the cars around to work in the garage. I have to say, the quick stint just while I was backing up and moving forward, that little 4.8 is no slouch, should be fun even even though it's only about 280 horse!

[PolarBear]

Seat brackets and sliders came yesterday. I have to vacuum out all the soy bean husks now and get some new hardware for the floor, then the seats can go in.

Also my AutoRad should arrive in the next 2 weeks or so, they called this morning for the remainder of the payment

[Blackbirdws6]

When does this build get some boost?

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

When does this build get some boost?

As soon as someone decides to donate a device that will provide sufficient boost for the platform, need all the parts though. I can assemble or fabricate if needed.
I really want an LS9 supercharger on top of the engine

[Blackbirdws6]

Its only money. Make it rain.

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

Its only money. Make it rain.

The coffers are limited, I would get a new engine before buying boost, that's why I keep saying If someone were to donate it I would do it.

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by PolarBear

The coffers are limited, I would get a new engine before buying boost, that's why I keep saying If someone were to donate it I would do it.

Could the blower you buy be used with a new engine? Skip the baller wheels and make some pah!

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

Could the blower you buy be used with a new engine? Skip the baller wheels and make some pah!

The LS9 blower bolts to the LS9/LS3/L92 head, but that won't fit on an LR4 the 4.8/5.3 block. I would have to buy the MAST black label small cylinder heads to be able to use them on this little engine, but I'd probably need new pistons....... But really, I NEED new wheels to fit over the better brakes and even with the power of the 4.8 I think it is going to be able to blow the tires off like I am riding around on doughnut spares so I don't think I need a blower or turbo right now

The rad support will probably the last bit of money I spend on this car this year besides gas and insurance, maybe tires if I don't figure out wheels before spring.
Also I have another project to start spending more money on, not a ton, but there are a few expensive things I need to make the truck nicer. I need to rebuild the other frame/suspension and put a seat in it. Foam and seat cover are over $500 plus a lot of the nickle and dime stuff.

[PolarBear]

I just saw the bill for the remainder of that AutoRad, ugh.

I threw one of my seats in the car last night. Now I understand why GM went to a stud for the seat tracks. All you guys with newer cars probably don't know what I'm talking about. Took me like two minutes to get one damn bolt started through the carpet, I can't even imagine having to do that in all 8 positions. I'll have to look through ARP's catalog and see if they have any nice 5/16" studs that I can permanently install in the floor.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by PolarBear

I just saw the bill for the remainder of that AutoRad, ugh.

I threw one of my seats in the car last night. Now I understand why GM went to a stud for the seat tracks. All you guys with newer cars probably don't know what I'm talking about. Took me like two minutes to get one damn bolt started through the carpet, I can't even imagine having to do that in all 8 positions. I'll have to look through ARP's catalog and see if they have any nice 5/16" studs that I can permanently install in the floor.

My Nova has studs.

You can probably just get 5/16 bolts and cut the heads off.

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

My Nova has studs.

You can probably just get 5/16 bolts and cut the heads off.

I actually just ordered some studs from McMaster Carr with thread repair kit (to fix the steering wheel in the Firebird) and some locking flange head nuts for the seats

That's odd that the Camaro is bolts and your Nova is older. I think the truck also had holes in the floor and not studs, but I'll have to double check though