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07-21-2020, 03:54 PM
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#301
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Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
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I saw your FB post about all that but I was/am in FB jail so I couldn't comment.
Whats the PN on that temp sensor for the trans? Does it also have the specs for what ever you're configuring it for?
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07-21-2020, 05:05 PM
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#302
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarBear
I saw your FB post about all that but I was/am in FB jail so I couldn't comment.
Whats the PN on that temp sensor for the trans? Does it also have the specs for what ever you're configuring it for?
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I don't know it off hand but will see if I can get that info. At the time, I recall it is a basic GM/Delco sensor but I know that's not helpful.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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07-21-2020, 08:04 PM
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#303
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 586
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Believe this is the trans temp sensor:
ACDELCO 12458118
Good to see it all back together...again. The Monster issue was strange as in static conditions everything was smooth. It was very nice of them to inform of the 'minor' modification after the fact.
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07-21-2020, 08:18 PM
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#304
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I don't know it off hand but will see if I can get that info. At the time, I recall it is a basic GM/Delco sensor but I know that's not helpful.
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The holley dominator can run thermistor senders for activating pumps.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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07-21-2020, 09:26 PM
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#305
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Power Member / trans break does not equal transbrake
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Meadowlands
Posts: 4,513
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I still think we should just Bluetooth all the sensors
__________________
99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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07-22-2020, 10:40 AM
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#306
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaKid455
Believe this is the trans temp sensor:
ACDELCO 12458118
Good to see it all back together...again. The Monster issue was strange as in static conditions everything was smooth. It was very nice of them to inform of the 'minor' modification after the fact.
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Yep that is the one. Texted Mike and he confirmed. Regarding Monster.....yea that would have been nice. For the short time I drove the car after it was all back together, everything was a little notchy at first but after some miles, it's gotten better and better. It finally hit that sweet spot within about 50 miles on it so I expect that to continue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
The holley dominator can run thermistor senders for activating pumps.
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Yea that's nice but can it do bluetooth sensors? Didn't think so.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
I still think we should just Bluetooth all the sensors
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Get on that! It was fun watching your face of disbelief as you saw the fun of an older tech motor.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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07-22-2020, 07:55 PM
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#307
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Power Member / trans break does not equal transbrake
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Meadowlands
Posts: 4,513
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Yeap, my millennial was showing
__________________
99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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09-18-2020, 10:33 AM
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#308
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Nothing too exciting here but figured I'd post a brief update.
Item 1:
I was chasing a P0327 code for a low input (sensor or circuit issue) which I don't know if its resolved but I've done everything reasonable to fix the issue. I replaced the knock sensor which didn't solve the problem but after further sleuthing, I found some wires (including the knock sensor wire) got a little toasty next to the passenger header. I think things just got moved around during the HG replacement a few weeks back. Purple is the starter wire and the blue is the knock sensor.
None of the wires in the bundle were visibly burnt and some multimeter testing didn't identify an issue either. Since I was there, I decided to splice and solder in a new wire while wrapping everything in heat resistant material to avoid a future issue. Everything was re-run away from the header with all of the zip ties. I cleaned the sensor connector as well just to rule out as many variables as possible.
The code came back again after all that so more diagnosing was needed. With help from Smash, the drivers side plugs were replaced with a fresh set given they were changed on the passenger side when the HG was done. Plugs looked fine overall however they were all gapped way too tight (0.020ish vs 0.0275). I'm pretty diligent when it comes to gapping plugs properly so no clue how that happened.
More driving and while it felt fine, the code still came back.
I then checked over every wire from injectors to spark plugs and it seems my #4 cylinder spark plug wire may not have been clicked all the way on the plug.
I haven't seen the code come back but sometimes it takes a few running cycles. Maybe its resolved or perhaps the saga will continue. (EDIT - Took it for a ride and it came back. Ack!)
Item #2
The factory steering wheel/airbag combo is ugly and none of the re-wrapping options I've seen help it to look any better. So it was time to embrace racecar a bit more and replace the wheel with a new unit sans airbag. One part of me wanted to retain the bag but the other suggests I shouldn't trust an 23 year old airbag anyway. Decisions were made and for my bday, I received the NRG short hub and quick disconnect. For the wheel, I grabbed a 350mm Sparco that appeared to best fit the style of the interior.
After some coaching from Smash regarding the install rigor and reading up, I got to work. I've pulled the wheel before so nothing was new there but I took pause when the short hub did not want to go deep enough on the steering column splines.
It became evident the clock spring needed to go. Given it would only be used for the now nonexistent steering wheel airbag and radio controls, out it went. I soldered in a 2.2k ohm resistor to keep the airbag system happy (and no light on the dash). and finished up the install. One annoying item was not getting hardware to install the wheel to the quick disconnect so a run to the hardware store was needed.
After I got it all buttoned up, I liked the look/wheel size/etc. but wasn't loving the new wheel position. The quick disconnect just brings it too far out from the dash. Granted the distance did give me a bit more room for the clutch leg so that was probably the only plus. I told myself, "Drive it and see if you get used to it." I took it for a maiden voyage and immediately noticed the steering effort was much higher and felt like driving a car with no power steering. Seems I tightened down the nut for the column a bit too tight even though I measured the release torque and matched it during install.
Foresight was on my side in a funny way as I spent a good deal of time getting the horn to function properly. I haven't used the horn in maybe 5+ years but I just wanted it to be functional. On my maiden voyage with the new wheel, I had to use the horn big time due to a NY minivan casually coming into my lane on 287. I wasn't in their blindspot and you would think the person would hear my car but nope....not a turn of the head nor any peripheral vision apparently. There was a quick panic as I steered to avoid an issue and a smirk as my muscle memory had me going for the horn as if the old wheel was there.
I ended up ditching the quick disconnect but needed a short spacer to give enough room for the horn button connections so that was installed yesterday. The placement is pretty perfect now.
I got a couple quick errands done and the lighting looked right for a quick picture.
The saga will continue.....
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
Last edited by Blackbirdws6; 09-18-2020 at 11:31 AM.
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09-19-2020, 10:29 PM
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#309
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10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,116
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nice update. I am wondering about the false-knock you are getting, but I am not skilled/smart enough to diagnose a problem like that. I wonder what larry has to say about it?
I like the look of the new wheel. never thought about one with a quick-release adding length to the column, but that makes sense. Good to keep in mind if I ever go that route. agree about the horn. Mine stopped working way back in like 2012 or so, but when I did the Optima Batteries USCA event, they deduct points if you don't have a working horn. I hadn't really needed to use it in many years, but i took the time to troubleshoot the problem and got it working prior to the event. it has been fine ever since, and I have indeed actually had to use it since then. I'm sure your muscle memory will play tricks on you for some time to come.
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
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09-20-2020, 06:44 AM
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#310
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quick update. Still getting the P0327 knock sensor low input code. Car drives perfectly fine but I see the 3.9 degs of knock retard on part/full throttle with load on the engine. Revving it in place doesn't trigger it unless I really just whack the the throttle but it's inconsistent. This makes me think that under load, the drivetrain is flexing like it will and something is touching/tapping.
Maybe something shifted just ever so slightly when the pan was done since the K member/motor mounts were unbolted. Something may be touching that wasn't before causing audible noise. Both driver and passenger lifter preload was redone recently so I guess she needs to go back in the air to see what may be causing the knock sensor to trigger.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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09-21-2020, 10:04 AM
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#311
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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An update and a bit more mystery to this knock sensor issue.
- Codes cleared a couple days ago, car not driven until yesterday.
- Start up, give it 30 secs or so to warm a little. Took it out for an easy drive.
- Very light throttle, soft upshifts etc as everything gets up to temperature. No knock retard shown on scanner.
- Take it on the highway, fully warmed up. No knock retard (KR) with any throttle - 0-70%. Played with it in different gears and rpms, no knock retard. It would have typically showed KR in these situations given my view of the scanner on prior drives.
- Almost home now after probably 20+ miles with no KR showing at any point. I goose it a bit in 1st and part of 2nd. Now I am seeing knock retard of 3.9 degrees pop up with any moderate throttle. Doesn't trigger it at light throttle or idle. No CEL popped up just yet but I know it will eventually.
So my quick take is something is getting unhappy or triggering KR after I decide to get saucy and from then on out, it registers KR at any moderate part throttle.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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09-21-2020, 11:12 AM
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#312
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,724
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Did you swap sensors from bank to bank to make sure one of them isn't dead?
__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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09-21-2020, 11:46 AM
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#313
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched73
Did you swap sensors from bank to bank to make sure one of them isn't dead?
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LTx land. Only one sensor on the passenger side of the block need the oil dipstick tube. 0411 PCM.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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09-21-2020, 11:57 AM
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#314
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10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,116
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gen 1 SBC land.... what is a sensor ?
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
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09-21-2020, 12:11 PM
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#315
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15
gen 1 SBC land.... what is a sensor ?
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Just a few clicks of the keyboard away.....
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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09-21-2020, 12:13 PM
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#316
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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You could install two sensors and get double the timing loss!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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09-21-2020, 12:21 PM
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#317
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
You could install two sensors and get double the timing loss!
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I like where your head is at! I'll just pick a spot in the block and start drilling/tapping!
INSERT (BRO I WOULD HAVE HAD YOU IF ALL MY TIMING WAS IN IT) COMMENT
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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09-21-2020, 12:35 PM
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#318
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
I like where your head is at! I'll just pick a spot in the block and start drilling/tapping!
INSERT (BRO I WOULD HAVE HAD YOU IF ALL MY TIMING WAS IN IT) COMMENT
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Driver side already has a coolant port for it.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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09-21-2020, 01:25 PM
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#319
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,724
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1) Why haven't you tuned it out yet?
2) Is it an LT1 sensor or LT4? I heard the LT1 sensors are more sensitive and can pick up false knock.
3) I wanted to ask if you could hear any pinging but I know you can't even hear your own thoughts in that thing
__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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09-21-2020, 01:40 PM
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#320
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched73
1) Why haven't you tuned it out yet?
2) Is it an LT1 sensor or LT4? I heard the LT1 sensors are more sensitive and can pick up false knock.
3) I wanted to ask if you could hear any pinging but I know you can't even hear your own thoughts in that thing
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LT1 vs LT4 knock module, its an OBD1.5 thing, he has 0411 PCM so no more module. Sensors are the same.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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09-21-2020, 02:10 PM
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#321
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Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Millstone Township, NJ
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
Driver side already has a coolant port for it.
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Well great. Now you tell me! Guess I can run three now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched73
1) Why haven't you tuned it out yet?
2) Is it an LT1 sensor or LT4? I heard the LT1 sensors are more sensitive and can pick up false knock.
3) I wanted to ask if you could hear any pinging but I know you can't even hear your own thoughts in that thing
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1. Because I don't tune cars.
2. Not applicable.
3. Engine sounds good other than a tick under load/throttle when the bypass starts to close. Sounds like an exhaust leak but new gaskets etc maybe that's something else. I used a mech stethoscope and didn't hear any ticking from up top or below when I prodded various areas of the engine. During the initial easy drive and heavier throttle before getting saucy, makes the noise and didn't trigger KR.
__________________
97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140
'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
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09-21-2020, 03:05 PM
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#322
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,724
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I'd make sure I had good fuel in it and I'd adjust the sensitivity in the tune
__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Also scrap
'05 Silverado- You guessed it, scrap
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1
Jersey Shore Street Car Takeover (JSSCT) Founder
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike
Seven.
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09-21-2020, 06:02 PM
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#323
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Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15
gen 1 SBC land.... what is a sensor ?
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Dude, your car came from the factory with them!
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09-21-2020, 07:23 PM
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#324
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10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarBear
Dude, your car came from the factory with them!
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I know, I was just attempting to make a joke about the simpleness of a small block chevy. Didn't pull it off well though. whoops! Into the penalty box I go.
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
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