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12-09-2009, 03:48 PM
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#26
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff
Why not do the bolt on but put hood pins in the front corners so you can get rid of the latch like you want to. The GM fiberglass crossram hood for my 69 is actually built for the hinges and has the holes to pin it up front in the corners. The biggest risk is if it flies open because a pin comes out or breaks.
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yeah this is what I think Im going to do.
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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12-09-2009, 04:15 PM
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#27
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff
Why not do the bolt on but put hood pins in the front corners so you can get rid of the latch like you want to. The GM fiberglass crossram hood for my 69 is actually built for the hinges and has the holes to pin it up front in the corners. The biggest risk is if it flies open because a pin comes out or breaks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
yeah this is what I think Im going to do.
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Somewhere I have pictures from when we removed the latch and took a holesaw to Little G's stock hood on his '02 Camaro - he did front pins, and left the rear hinges, and it worked great, so I would imagine the same would hold true for an aftermarket bolt-on hood.
I'll look on my computer tonight and upload 'em if I find 'em.
- Justin
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1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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12-09-2009, 05:02 PM
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#28
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Mr Fantastic
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Milford NJ
Posts: 7,917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff
Why not do the bolt on but put hood pins in the front corners so you can get rid of the latch like you want to. The GM fiberglass crossram hood for my 69 is actually built for the hinges and has the holes to pin it up front in the corners. The biggest risk is if it flies open because a pin comes out or breaks.
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this is what i was thinking, thats why my mustang has
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Matt
B18B1 FTW
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12-09-2009, 06:35 PM
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#29
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
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yeah i thought that was one of your original ideas. i would do that as well.
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12-10-2009, 04:04 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Hillsborough, NJ
Posts: 1,099
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Kirk,
Are you going to buy the hood brand new?
if you are we can get you a good deal on the VFN hoods.
__________________
-Devin
Whiplash Intense Performance
Intensify your ride with over 500 name brand Performance parts and accessories!
www.intensewhiplash.com
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09-12-2010, 08:50 PM
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#31
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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__________________
1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-12-2010, 10:40 PM
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#32
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
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i like how the heavens parted for the almighty ls1
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09-13-2010, 07:18 AM
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#33
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,619
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Looks kinda rough...
__________________
1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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09-13-2010, 02:42 PM
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#34
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque
Looks kinda rough...
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Its black primer and has some sanding spots. Yes, it is pretty rough and needs a good deal more prep work before paint. Funny how there's a "VFN Quality" stamp under the hood
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-13-2010, 03:00 PM
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#35
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,153
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what made you decide to get such a tall hood?
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Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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09-13-2010, 04:31 PM
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#36
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Hippy Mod, Bergermeister Meisterberger, Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ewing
Posts: 6,213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
what made you decide to get such a tall hood?
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Tunnel Ram!
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69 Z28 JL8 4 wheel disc brakes - being restored
09 Silverado Z71
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09-14-2010, 08:54 AM
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#37
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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Hood looks great...... not to happy with the zip ties on the licence plate. but as always, your car looks sweet in the pics. I would go with bolt on & pin the front or use dezus fasteners painted to match car (nice flush mount & clean)
I don't know if you went with the bolt on style but heres some pics of mine.
gives ya plenty of room for a custom ram air setup.
(don't think you want to go as drastic as i did)
pics below: Bolt-On Hood/Pin/Latch Delete MOD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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09-14-2010, 10:41 AM
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#38
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
what made you decide to get such a tall hood?
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Its 3" tall, which is still smaller than cowl hoods. I always liked the aggressive look of this hood, and not too many people have it. Plus I got a great deal from Ron. The underside is open, and you can actually see through the scoop vent from the driver seat. Its functional as a cowl, not a ram air.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER
Hood looks great...... not to happy with the zip ties on the licence plate. but as always, your car looks sweet in the pics. I would go with bolt on & pin the front or use dezus fasteners painted to match car (nice flush mount & clean)
I don't know if you went with the bolt on style but heres some pics of mine.
gives ya plenty of room for a custom ram air setup.
(don't think you want to go as drastic as i did)
pics below: Bolt-On Hood/Pin/Latch Delete MOD
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Damn Curt, no turning back now . Do the dezus fasteners need to be welded in? Basically, could the position of the hood be changed to match body panels after the rails are installed?
My hood is bolt on. My bumper support is gone, and the underside of front bumper cover is trimmed underneath. The only thing that would block a box ducting would be the "V" shape support of the hood latch assembly. I was thinking of cutting the V supports and mocking up a serious ram air box...I'll have to start looking for sheet metal.
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-14-2010, 10:13 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
Damn Curt, no turning back now . Do the dezus fasteners need to be welded in? Basically, could the position of the hood be changed to match body panels after the rails are installed?
My hood is bolt on. My bumper support is gone, and the underside of front bumper cover is trimmed underneath. The only thing that would block a box ducting would be the "V" shape support of the hood latch assembly. I was thinking of cutting the V supports and mocking up a serious ram air box...I'll have to start looking for sheet metal.
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yeah, no turning back. car will be twin turbo w/ A.C. and me deleting the latch assembly & other stuff I cutout, will help me do several things:
1.move radiator and conderser where I want them
2.room for me to make a cold air panel up & over the rad support and under the turbos which will then wrap behind the turbos to block heat from the engine and supply cold air to the filters while cooling the turbos a bit @ the same time.
as for hood & dzus fastenersL:
you need to fit hood & adjust as best as possible. than make little brackets like picture (1) below, when installing the brackets oblong the mounting holes, this will allow you to move the mounting plate (catch) of the dzus clip.
the clips in the hood itself can be rivetted in, screwed or epoxyd. once installed you can clean them up/sand finish & paint the hood all 1 shot. very clean look when your done.
any final adjustments can be done with the mounting plates that are attached to fender wells.
i believe you want to use whats called a oval barrel dzus. that is pic (2)
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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09-15-2010, 10:37 AM
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#40
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Its more practical for me to keep my hood on hinges. Dzus fasteners are a great idea but Im not really a fan of the pins all over the hood. I think Im just going to cut the V shape of the latch bracket and make some new supports for it.
I spent some time yesterday taking measurements and designed an the airbox using Autocad.
My goal is to keep cost under $100 in materials, weigh under 5 lbs, and be constructed with only hand tools. My plan is to make decals to scale, then stick them to the sheet metal as a stencil to cut out. I dont have a break bender so most of the bends will be separate pieces, riveted together with tabs and sealed with 200mph tape.
For materials, Lowes had 22ga steel, 26 ga coated steel, and .020 Aluminum. Im leaning towards the 26 ga steel because it would be the easiest to wrk with, and slightly stronger than the aluminum. The only thing Im worried about is noise with the thinner sheet, but I guess that could be fixed with supports.
Thoughts on any of this?
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-15-2010, 01:19 PM
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#41
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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KIRKEVIL,
As for the hood, I wasn't stating to pin your hood all over the place, was just showing you the mounting brackets.
I am keeping my hood with hinges but no front latch assy.
i will be putting in only 3 dzus fasteners: (1) @ top center of each headlight & (1) in dead center front above chevy emblem.
as for the cold air kit. my personal fav is stainless steel sheetmetal. no rust,no need to paint & looks really trick.
my buddy works @ lowes and he tosses out tops for bbq grilles all the time due to dents and such. i have 2 of them to make my cold air kit. if you want I see if i can get 2 more for ya.
other route I would do aluminum (light,no rattles) but you'll need to tig it.
if going with sheetmetal steel, use the galvanized sheetmetal thats used for hvac ductwork. thicker,won't rust & can be bent,rivited,painted etc..
p.s. If you cutout the urethane part of bumper behind the lower grille you can get a s*&tload more airflow.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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09-15-2010, 01:21 PM
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#42
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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got a copy of the autocad program? i would love to have it, or any other edition of cad,cadkey, etc... lol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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09-15-2010, 02:16 PM
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#43
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER
got a copy of the autocad program? i would love to have it, or any other edition of cad,cadkey, etc... lol
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Nice seeing ideas take shape...
__________________
1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-15-2010, 02:25 PM
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#44
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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looks galvanized sheetmetal.....good choice!
have fun cutting it, let me know how many bandaids you need me to send ya!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
Last edited by S.J.SLEEPER; 09-15-2010 at 02:26 PM.
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09-15-2010, 02:56 PM
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#45
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Its some kind of plated steel. Im going to paint it black anyway so it doesnt look too obnoxious in the engine bay.
I've learned my lesson and now wear gloves with sheet metal, Haha. Cutting so far isnt that bad just using tin snips, its only 26 ga.
__________________
1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-15-2010, 08:01 PM
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#46
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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The box is coming together...
__________________
1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-16-2010, 12:31 AM
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#47
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: barnegat nj
Posts: 1,340
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looks good! keep up the good work.
i swear that looks like galv sheetmetal!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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South Jersey Racecraft
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09-17-2010, 07:46 PM
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#48
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Teaser Pics
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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09-17-2010, 07:48 PM
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#49
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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That thing got central air?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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09-17-2010, 07:53 PM
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#50
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Zone climate control, with a built in air purifier. Smells like lavender.
__________________
1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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