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05-19-2009, 10:28 PM
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#26
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BadMod
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: hamilton, nj
Posts: 8,889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque
i too am looking for these answers....
what will get the front wheels to pull off the ground...?
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mine pulls them with my setup and a stock motor
__________________
So much stupid, so little time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79CamaroDiva
It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Mercerville MotorSports, LLC
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05-19-2009, 10:39 PM
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#27
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,619
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thats the best i've gotten with stock springs/struts... with just tubular lca's and a umi tubular stock replacment tq arm.
__________________
1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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05-19-2009, 10:49 PM
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#28
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BadMod
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: hamilton, nj
Posts: 8,889
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still have your front sway bar?
__________________
So much stupid, so little time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79CamaroDiva
It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Mercerville MotorSports, LLC
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05-19-2009, 10:50 PM
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#29
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrrmike
still have your front sway bar?
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yes, as well as stock rear
__________________
1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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05-20-2009, 08:31 AM
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#30
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MILLVILLE NJ
Posts: 84
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drop the front sway bar, leave the back one on. u need a strut that will throw the front end up fast and slowly let itself back down. i run all drag suspensions on my mustangs and 90/10 lakewood struts are the best..too bad they dont make em for fbodys. u might find a good adjustable to accomplish wut u want..stock struts suck for drag racing..as soon as the go up the come right back down
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05-20-2009, 08:40 AM
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#31
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,619
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yeah, i run 90/10's in my buick... just dont know what people run in an fbody...
__________________
1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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05-20-2009, 09:05 AM
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#32
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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don't they run qa1's all around? i just think a fully adjustable coilover in the front is your best bet, not sure on the spring weight though
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05-20-2009, 02:12 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hillsdale
Posts: 68
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well going on with what everyone is talking about here i have a question about my set up, i have lakewood 50/50's is rear with tube lcas, stock springs and tq arm and stock up in the front and still have both swap bars, my question is what else could i do to get the best 60 foot and best set up for drag ?
__________________
-Andrew-
98 Ram2500 Cummins 9in lift kit, 37 super swampers 20mpg city Daily Driver
00 Custom R1
97 Trans-Am M6 SOLD =(
89 FoxBody SOLD =(
02 WRX/STI Cashed =(
89 Jeep Wrangler- The Toy 7.5in lift 35 MT's * FOR SALE *
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05-20-2009, 02:19 PM
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#34
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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whats your 60' and what tires and wheels are you running and psi?
Last edited by sweetbmxrider; 05-20-2009 at 02:19 PM.
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05-20-2009, 02:24 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hillsdale
Posts: 68
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the last time i went to the track it was a 2.0 60 foot with bold 275/40/17 with 18psi on y2k vette wheels but now i have brand new htr-z 275/40/17 still on the y2k vette wheels but i havent been back to the track yet with the new tires.
__________________
-Andrew-
98 Ram2500 Cummins 9in lift kit, 37 super swampers 20mpg city Daily Driver
00 Custom R1
97 Trans-Am M6 SOLD =(
89 FoxBody SOLD =(
02 WRX/STI Cashed =(
89 Jeep Wrangler- The Toy 7.5in lift 35 MT's * FOR SALE *
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05-20-2009, 03:16 PM
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#36
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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see what it does in comparison to the old 60' first before throwin parts at it. i am not familiar with those tires so i can't really give any tips there. your best bet is to remove weight off of the front and transfer the weight rearward. adjustable front coilovers will help this. being an m6 though, i would say seat time and launching practice will help your 60' the best.
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05-20-2009, 06:41 PM
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#37
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,619
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1.62 60' with MT ET street radials... 275/40/17
__________________
1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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05-20-2009, 09:38 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Long Branch NJ
Posts: 706
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Just for the record, 4th gens dont have any struts. tubular LCAs and good bushings will help a lot. The stock ones are quite flimsy. On my monte carlo just welding plates over the stamped LCAs made a huge difference. What is the deal with disconnecting your sway bars? what does that do aside from make your car more dangerous to drive? They dont have any front to back load on them. Adjustable torque arm mount would help too if you can adjust the height at the front. I dont know if such a part exists. The torque arm/lca design is a pretty good design. Lots of weight transfer ability with the right geometry
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Formerly known as REED!
JSFBOA
Draino?
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05-20-2009, 09:48 PM
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#39
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BadMod
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: hamilton, nj
Posts: 8,889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isphius
Just for the record, 4th gens dont have any struts. tubular LCAs and good bushings will help a lot. The stock ones are quite flimsy. On my monte carlo just welding plates over the stamped LCAs made a huge difference. What is the deal with disconnecting your sway bars? what does that do aside from make your car more dangerous to drive? They dont have any front to back load on them. Adjustable torque arm mount would help too if you can adjust the height at the front. I dont know if such a part exists. The torque arm/lca design is a pretty good design. Lots of weight transfer ability with the right geometry
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yes, they do, struts in the front, shocks in the rear
__________________
So much stupid, so little time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79CamaroDiva
It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Mercerville MotorSports, LLC
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05-20-2009, 09:54 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shownomercy
For the 1996 LT1 and 1996 LT4:
LT1 Mass: 785.3 lbs (356.2 kg)
LT4 Mass: 1003.5 lbs (455.2 kg)
For the 2001 LS1 and 2001 LS6:
LS1 Total Dressed Engine Weight: Auto. - 457.6 lbs. (208 kg); Manual - 497.2 lbs (226 kg)
LS6 Total Dressed Engine Weight: (Manual only) - 497.2 lbs (226 kg)
Edit: I don't like those numbers, but bascially a 100* difference LT1/LS1
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http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/camaro...f-body-weight/
Edit- Don't know how accurate this is cause I just found this as well http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/weights.htm .
I do know that a auto LT1 with all accessorys on, in 4 bolt version weighs roughly 565lbs (and the 4 bolt block is slightly heavier than the 2 bolt). Bought a 93 Ybody complete engine and it was put on the scale at the yard before it was loaded into my truck.
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Last edited by Formulalt1; 05-20-2009 at 10:55 PM.
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05-24-2009, 10:16 PM
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#41
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Co-Founder / Site Admin
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isphius
What is the deal with disconnecting your sway bars? what does that do aside from make your car more dangerous to drive? They dont have any front to back load on them.
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Disconnecting the front sway bar allows the front suspension to droop down further and / or faster, which will help weight transfer to the rear of the car. Also if you elect to take it off completely it's a few more pounds off the nose of the car which never hurts either
- Justin
__________________
1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?
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05-28-2009, 09:08 AM
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#42
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque
i too am looking for these answers....
what will get the front wheels to pull off the ground...?
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Lots of RPMs and traction!
Just FYI, you need the rear to squat and stay planted, so you really want the double adjustable shocks to control compression and rebound.
On the front you want the shocks to extend and stay extended/compress slowly. For the rear you want then to compress and come up/rebound slowly.
Basically, compression plants the tires, rebound (or lack of) keeps them planted. On the initial hit the front lift and the rear drops = plants the tires, when the rear shocks rebound ( lift the body back up to original ride hieght ) it needs to be controls or at the top of rebound the inertia works to lift the tires off the surface. If you don't control rebound the car is basically rocking fron to back. So even if you plant the tires at the line after a few feet you start spinning. The air bag in the spring is used to prevent the car twisting side to side which causes the driver's side tire to loose traction. The amount of air is minimal or you are just adding rebound.
If you can adjust your shocks to be firm for street driving you won't notice the sway bar missing. I have the SLP suspension with revalved Blistens and no sway bar, the car handles fine, but I don't do any high speed turns.
__________________
93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
Last edited by Pampered-Z; 05-28-2009 at 09:11 AM.
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05-28-2009, 09:27 AM
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#43
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BadMod
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: hamilton, nj
Posts: 8,889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isphius
What is the deal with disconnecting your sway bars? what does that do aside from make your car more dangerous to drive? They dont have any front to back load on them.
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Not both, just the front, and unless your taking exits like a f1 driver its not extremely noticeable. i never had any problems driving with no front sway bar either in my current setup or with my old setup lowered with 17s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by isphius
Adjustable torque arm mount would help too if you can adjust the height at the front. I dont know if such a part exists. The torque arm/lca design is a pretty good design. Lots of weight transfer ability with the right geometry
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you don't want to change the height of the front of the tq arm, you use the adjustments in the rear to change the pinion angle of the rear.
__________________
So much stupid, so little time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79CamaroDiva
It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Mercerville MotorSports, LLC
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05-28-2009, 11:02 AM
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#44
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Long Branch NJ
Posts: 706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrrmike
yes, they do, struts in the front, shocks in the rear
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They are just coil over shocks, struts handle the lateral load too. they have an upper control arm for that
__________________
Formerly known as REED!
JSFBOA
Draino?
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05-28-2009, 11:43 AM
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#45
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Guest
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so its clear. what shocks (other then switching to QA1s) does everyone reccomend for drag racing
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05-28-2009, 01:53 PM
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#46
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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fully adjustable....
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05-28-2009, 02:37 PM
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#47
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Browns Mills NJ/ Rotondo West FL
Posts: 3,054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
As far as I know most of the parts are the same. I know that spring rates are different due to the LT1 being heavier. That is probably why they list it as 93-97.
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The part numbers are different but I did some research over on tech about LS1 guys using LT1 springs and vica versa and the stance was perfect...Guess the 30-40 pds doesnt make a huge difference in the spring rate.
__________________
AI HCR 241's , Lunati 223/236 .615/.626 114+2 , Full Exhaust , Ported Fast 92 , Ported LS2 TB , Veraram , 85mm MAF , Circle D 4000 , 3.42's , GTP 36# , CSP Dyno tune. More on the way
420 HP/367 TQ on a Unlocked Converter & still climbing.
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06-03-2009, 09:01 PM
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#48
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 65
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For std weight LS1 Fbody
QA1 12 ways all around
300# front springs (I believe stock is 292#)
160-180# rear springs
For LT1 car go with 325# or a lighter car go with 275#
this is assuming you have an aftermarket torque arm and other
common suspension pieces
__________________
Bammann Racing Engines built
ECS tuned
Calling it like I see it...
Last edited by cdubbzz; 06-03-2009 at 09:03 PM.
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