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01-04-2009, 04:02 PM
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#51
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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Nice work light. Very fashionable. LOL
Nice job. Been there, done that.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-05-2009, 03:33 PM
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#52
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
Nice work light. Very fashionable. LOL
Nice job. Been there, done that.
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The Bonzo way of replacing a clutch, right? LOL
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01-12-2009, 06:27 PM
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#53
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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I didn't have much time to work on it but i got most everything off the the frame rails: upper and lower control arms, brake line, fuel line, steering.. I have some por15 and por15 top coat coming and a crap load of simple green to clean everything.
I just have one question. Should i remove the frame from the body or is that going to cause more headaches for me trying to get it back on?
one more, is the por15 going to take the heat right there by the engine and the headers? or should i coat it with their higher heat stuff?
Last edited by usp55; 01-12-2009 at 06:27 PM.
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01-12-2009, 06:31 PM
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#54
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,676
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POR will be fine everywhere on the frame. You should pull the frame and replace the frame mounts. It will also be easier to paint the frame with it removed from the body.
__________________
John
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01-12-2009, 06:37 PM
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#55
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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My guess is the subframe bushings are beat, and maybe the frame mounts on the frame. The question is how much of a pita is it gonna be to get them out. putting the frame back in is not too hard.
Here is what one of my frame mounts was like:
<--rusted
<--new plate welded in
<--the small hole is used to realign the frame
<--painted & ready w/solid mounts
a lot of info: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17406
I have had no issue with paint on my frame next to headers - por-15, misted with etch primer, rustoleum semi-gloss black topcoat.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-12-2009, 08:22 PM
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#56
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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Bonzo thanks for the pics.
Ive done alot on this car so far, most for the first time ever, and it really hasn't been that bad. Removing the frame scares the crap out of me to be honest. Seems a little bit over my head and im having trouble pulling up information on removing and reattaching the frame. Not even sure how those smaller hole are used to aline the body and frame. Also have no way to weld on a plate to fix the frame mounts on the frame if they are rusted.
do u thin can can post up some more info on the process of pulling and reinstalling that way I can decide if that's something i really what to do.
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01-12-2009, 09:16 PM
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#57
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usp55
Bonzo thanks for the pics.
Ive done alot on this car so far, most for the first time ever, and it really hasn't been that bad. Removing the frame scares the crap out of me to be honest. Seems a little bit over my head and im having trouble pulling up information on removing and reattaching the frame. Not even sure how those smaller hole are used to aline the body and frame. Also have no way to weld on a plate to fix the frame mounts on the frame if they are rusted.
do u thin can can post up some more info on the process of pulling and reinstalling that way I can decide if that's something i really what to do.
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Collin-
The frame is attached by 4 bolts to the body. Spray them with PB blaster or a penetrating oil to get them nice and loose before you try to loosen them. If you don't you run a greater risk of breaking one of the cage nuts loose (what the frame bolts lock into).
Removing a subframe is no big deal. When it goes on you can stick a large screwdriver into the small holes to align it. But that probably won't be an issue until you go to put the front sheetmetal back on.
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01-12-2009, 09:49 PM
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#58
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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on & off is the easy part, lol.
lots of pb blaster - remember wd40 is not penetrating oil.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-12-2009, 10:18 PM
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#59
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Collin-
Removing a subframe is no big deal. When it goes on you can stick a large screwdriver into the small holes to align it. But that probably won't be an issue until you go to put the front sheetmetal back on.
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by sheetmetal you mean the body right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
on & off is the easy part, lol.
lots of pb blaster - remember wd40 is not penetrating oil.
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I have plenty of PB - i bought a bunch of cans before the project began. Ill start spaying the bolts each day before this weekend.
ok so maybe again im over thinking this and its not too hard to do. Any tricks or tips for safely removing the frame. Seems like an awkward and heavy piece of metal to move and support.
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01-12-2009, 10:18 PM
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#60
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Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
If you don't you run a greater risk of breaking one of the cage nuts loose (what the frame bolts lock into).
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You can see the front cage nuts from the holes next to the frame in the firewall. make sure you spray into there too.
I was able to get my front sub back on the car by myself with only a floor jack and a few jack stands. Took about 10 minutes of juggling it a little with one bolt in the back spot, then pulling the front up and trying to start a bolt by hand.
My cousin said he used to re-install the frames with the engine in them when he worked resto. He had to be very careful about scratching stuff too. I wouldnt worry about R&R
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01-13-2009, 08:14 AM
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#61
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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read that nastyZ link I posted. It's got a lot of info on this.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-13-2009, 08:48 AM
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#62
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Hippy Mod, Bergermeister Meisterberger, Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ewing
Posts: 6,213
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You might want to take some measurements from the firewall up to somewhere near the front of the subframe on each side to help you try to get it back into place as close as possible. You will most likely need to make adjustments when the fenders go back on. Without the engine/trans in there, it's easy to pull out the front subframe and move it around.
__________________
69 Z28 JL8 4 wheel disc brakes - being restored
09 Silverado Z71
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01-13-2009, 01:30 PM
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#63
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wantage, NJ
Posts: 693
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I pulled the front subframe on my '79 during the summer. It was easy; four bolts as stated above. I made sure to support the body on jackstands and used a blocks of wood under the subframe to keep it from crashing down to the ground.
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01-15-2009, 06:19 PM
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#64
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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ok im pulling the subframe and all the bolts came out really easy except for one. The front pass side bolt. Its just spinning and i cant stop it. Tried to hammer the metal part down over the square bolt but as soon as i turn it the metal pops right up and it spins again. any ideas? I pb blasted the crap out of the bolt
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01-15-2009, 06:56 PM
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#65
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usp55
ok im pulling the subframe and all the bolts came out really easy except for one. The front pass side bolt. Its just spinning and i cant stop it. Tried to hammer the metal part down over the square bolt but as soon as i turn it the metal pops right up and it spins again. any ideas? I pb blasted the crap out of the bolt
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Yep, you popped a caged nut. See if you can get vice grips on the square nut to keep it from going. But you can celebrate. The ones in the middle of the car are the nasty bitches. The one you have to deal with is easy to replace.
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01-15-2009, 09:07 PM
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#66
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Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
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I was able to hold the top of the cage down with a block and a prybar and then was able to get the bolt loose. Keep spraying it with penetrating oil and try and get it out next weekend .
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01-16-2009, 08:36 AM
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#67
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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What he said....you have an impact gun or are you doing this by hand?
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-16-2009, 05:07 PM
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#68
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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everything by hand, ill try what u guys said later tonight.
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01-17-2009, 10:26 AM
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#69
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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update 1-17-09
Last edited by usp55; 01-17-2009 at 10:29 AM.
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01-17-2009, 12:58 PM
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#70
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usp55
Well i got it out by cutting the bolt with my hack saw.
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hmmm and my post that said "cut it" was deleted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by usp55
and with that I've hit the first thing i really cant do for the car, weld a plate for the body mount. Is there anyone in the area that is a welder by trade? id like to get that hole reinforced. Name your price.
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i bet paul could do it. not sure of his schedule or turn around though if that matters. i'm sure its something he has had to do on more than one restoration.
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01-17-2009, 01:24 PM
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#71
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
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That can be fixed.
Don't harm that small hole, that is for alignment.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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01-17-2009, 04:52 PM
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#72
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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That looks like an easy fix. Make a cardboard template out of 1/8" steel and find a welder.
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01-18-2009, 11:10 AM
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#74
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 1,044
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nice site amargari
it was also recommended by member from another firebird forum to use "A very large heavy washer works really well for a patch on the frame. Grind away the rusted metal until the washer fits into the hole and but weld it in (get one with the right size inner hole). Grind the weld off and you will never be able to tell there was a patch."
seems like a good easy solution
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01-18-2009, 11:30 PM
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#75
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Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amargari
I bought the Goodmark repair kit and it is not a direct fit. Just buy some steel and drill a hole in it.
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Despite what that site says and what Goodmark says. that repair kit is for 67-69 camaro and nova. It CAN be used like the link shows, and is what I used, but was not intended for that application
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