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Old 04-30-2012, 07:38 PM   #76
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How long do you anticipate it being at the body shop? I would drive the car for a good bit, like 500 miles, to break in the motor in and make sure nothing is wrong. Worst thing for a new motor is to be idling around a shop for a month. Unless, does Golen break the motor in for you?
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:01 PM   #77
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It goes to the shop in June I'll bring it up and down the parkway a few time from point to manahawkin. The shop will have it for 3 months.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:36 AM   #78
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Got my new 3" aluminum drive shaft in today. What a difference between the stock one and this new one. Figured I would spend alittle extra here I don't want anything breaking.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:40 AM   #79
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I hope that's not just an LS1 driveshaft...
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:14 AM   #80
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He mentioned 1350 u joints so they at least did something.....
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:35 PM   #81
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Are the ls1 drive shafts 3" thick in diameter stock? And are they aluminum or steal?
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:47 PM   #82
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Yes, 3 inch, and their aluminum.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:34 PM   #83
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Man the ls f-bodys got all the good sh.t . Better motor better suspension, better brakes, hell GM even gave them a damn better drive shaft. I can't wait for my buddy to get home from over seas, got his 2002 silver ss all ready to be purchased.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:37 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by bigz28man View Post
Man the ls f-bodys got all the good sh.t . Better motor better suspension, better brakes, hell GM even gave them a damn better drive shaft. I can't wait for my buddy to get home from over seas, got his 2002 silver ss all ready to be purchased.
I think you misinterpreted here, having an LS1 drive shaft behind your engine is a BAD thing.

If its not an LS1 shaft, then carry on, my bad.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:27 PM   #85
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got the driveshaft in, fits perfectly. placed it into position, bolted it in and rotated the rear rear tires with it. no issues, so off to finishing the motor up. Need help with something though. I'm not happy that i couldn't get the BMR front k-member...funds would not allow for it. how hard would it be putting a new one in? Do i have to drop the motor or can the motor stay up in the car while i change the stock k-member out to the new k-member?
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #86
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so in post #8 i listed the specs on the comp cam thats in this new motor. I know in a few days I will be starting this car. does anyone know how healthy this motor will sound? taking into consideration I'm going with hooker long tube headers and no cats, and no mufflers.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:08 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigz28man View Post
so in post #8 i listed the specs on the comp cam thats in this new motor. I know in a few days I will be starting this car. does anyone know how healthy this motor will sound? taking into consideration I'm going with hooker long tube headers and no cats, and no mufflers.
It'll be very loud and sound nasty. Pretty sizeable cam so it would sound great even with high flow cats and mufflers.
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:44 PM   #88
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Its going to be obnoxious.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:57 PM   #89
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It going to sound pretty mean. I ran a CC306 in the car before my latest build which has similar specs to your cam.

No cats with the cutout open.

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Old 05-03-2012, 03:59 PM   #90
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Thanks guys, I will be looking into some kind of mufflers after I figure out how to do a true daul setup with h-pipe .
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:49 PM   #91
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some photos from the other day as i was installing my drive shaft
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File Type: jpg 2012-04-28_13-36-45_211.jpg (97.6 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 2012-04-28_13-48-05_177.jpg (98.1 KB, 38 views)
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:29 PM   #92
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I can't believe its going to the body shop. It looks very good.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:25 PM   #93
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so i got everything put back together, i still have the cooling system to hook up. So i decided to try to fire it up, IT'S ALIVE., ran for a few seconds and shut her off. tried starting it again about a half hour later, wouldn't start. DAMNIT
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:52 PM   #94
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ok anyone have any ideas why it didn't refire? I'm not going to try it again till i have the cooling system hooked up. I'm going to check the basics (spark, fuel, and so on)
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:53 PM   #95
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Yup, start with the basics.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:07 PM   #96
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just throwing this out there, i have not installed the front two O2 sensors, would that cause the motor not to refire, seems like a long shot seeing that it fired up in the first place. going to install them when i get back to it and see what happens. keeping my fingers crossed that the issue goes away after they are installed.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:53 AM   #97
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Nope, they don't start working till the motor enters closed loop. You are going to have issues if you don't have some piping after the collector as air will rush into the collectors and cause the o2's to go lean.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:54 AM   #98
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wait.... why is it going to the body shop ?! car looks great as is.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:19 AM   #99
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the car looks good, but the paint is from 97 and the car has been growing clear coat peel and spider cracks in the paint. As far the piping after the collectors, that is not together yet so maybe... we'll see. I'm not loosing to much sleep over it right now cause there is still a few more things needed to be done. On a different note, who ever is going to the swap meet today, I'll be in a red orange county choppers t shirt and black adidas pants, say hello if you see me.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:41 PM   #100
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Need advise. So I got everything put together, started the car, back firing like it was in rage or something. So I went checked the wires going into opti relized the number 3 and and 5 were swapped. Fix that start the car again, no back firing, idols at 1000 rpm with ease. Problem lies here, check engine light is on, my buddy plugged his scanner in and the scanner is not picking up the cars PCM.....why? Do I need a special scanner? Second problem, the car temp gage was between half and 3/4, and still looked like it was going to continuing to rise. I'm thinking maybe its just air in the line but the feeder hose was ice cold the return was hot/warm. Does that make any sense? I shut the motor down before it got any hotter. I plan in the afternoon to work the air out the line..does anyone else feel that's my problem?

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