Want to build a First Gen - Need Resources

[wretched73]

https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/196...664449155.html

[KevinW]

Well, that one is looking promising! Craiglist map is showing around New-Egypt which is close to Cream ridge (around my neck of the woods!). Phone number comes back from that area (cell phone).

The L78 (375 hp) cannot be proven without the original engine or documentation. X66 (Big Block) may be there on tag, but without a pic, can't really tell.

Will need a bunch of metal work obviously, std black interior looks factory, aftermarket shifter (they cut trans tunnel ). Might have been Garnet red originally, not a bad color combo.

Correct BB heater box, but looks like a small block radiator. Wrong master cyl, so either it does not have disc brakes (and then not a SS396) or some swapping has gone on. Heater core is probably shot based on the loop.

Some detailed detective work needs to be done before you pay real Big Block prices!

Most likely a clone with body issues. But if you are up for a challenge, it might be worth contacting owner Rob. I see a 70s Chevelle in the pics, so he know chevys, but that is also not a good thing if you are looking for a good price

[KevinW]

Actually, correct BB radiator is on the floor by the gold Chevelle. Make sure that is included in deal!

[BonzoHansen]

I don't know. Seems like you'd be paying for provenance you don't care about.

"What I want is to build a restomod/pro-touring first gen"

If that statement holds true then keep looking for a physically better car. They are out there at that price level.

[KevinW]

The Black one has already been deleted from CNJ.

Here is a blue one for $13,500 from the same seller as the black BB above in Cream ridge nj.

https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/196...681091601.html



Interior looks to be factory and in pretty good shape, Its a "late"built after Jan 1969 based on the curved headrests. Auto trans with console TH350, small block (emblems say 350), aftermarket cowl hood, but alternator mount is all wrong, components they used did not work together. Again with the power drum master cyl (what is it with this guy?).

Trunks floor has issues, rest of body probably does too! Paint and body work look to be poor quality. This will be a strip it and start from a bare body project.


Or you can go with a Real Project! again in Cream ridge but different seller for $1,200

https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/196...649185332.html

[B4C]

Originally Posted by KevinW

The Black one has already been deleted from CNJ.

Here is a blue one for $13,500 from the same seller as the black BB above in Cream ridge nj.

https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/196...681091601.html

That guy is a flipper.

[BonzoHansen]

So what you want is out there. Ready to write a check?

[qwikz28]

Close, but I am looking for a car that doesn't already have an LS and suspension so I can use my drivetrain and pick out my own suspension, etc. The built cars I've found are just way too expensive.

Whether I'm still ready to write a check or not, I'm not sure anymore. My wife is trying to talk me into selling my car and getting something safer, like a new Camaro, instead so I can drive my daughter around with me. I started this thread about a month prior to finding out my wife and I were expecting. Now, my daughter eight months old and she's really attached to me. We have to trick her by distracting her with toys if I need to leave. I'd love to enjoy the car with her, but wonder if now is the right time. I found this thread, and it gives me hope that I can still exercise my dream, but wonder if I'm being foolish: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...#post112263073

I'm very much an immediate gratification kind of guy, so it's hard for me to be patient and kick the project down the road.

[BonzoHansen]

I put 3 point belts in the back of my Z

[V]

Jake, I have 2 kids and 3, or 4, project vehicles (maybe even 5 if you wanna be technical). One day I do plan to get to all of them. Some are kid friendly, others not so much, but I figure by the time I finish them, maybe my boys will be off to college so its all good. If you have a dream to use your drivetrain in a 1st gen, do it, even if it takes years. maybe tear your car apart now and keep the motor trans stored on the side. That way when you do move forward, you truly know the condition of the motor unlike buying a used one. However, if the project takes too long, the motor will be outdated(Ask me about my 6k mile LT1 in my '79 vette, lol).

[qwikz28]

Well, this is spot on to what I'm looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Chevro...4383.l4275.c10

Silver 69 Coupe. Big block, manual, black interior. Clean, with no rust (some surface rust in the truck, actually). A nice platform to drive around and enjoy for a few years and then upgrade into a pro-touring car in a few years. Is it crazy to put an offer on a classic car sight-unseen across the country?

[KevinW]

Well, you can put a bid in but make sure you can fly out to ohio to see the car before you bid over $25K to make sure body work was done well. It's an X44 with 10 bolt non SS, non Z, so engine and trans are not original. But that might be in your favor since you want to LS/6speed it. Selling the 396 and trans will get you back a few bucks I predict the reserve is in the mid to high 30s. He has to recoup what he spent on the engine/trans, plus paint and body work

What I see: Dash top metal was replaced, so you know it had rust issues around the windshield/cowl. The black stripes are not done well, but it you can live with it, OK.

Fenders/grill/ front end looks straight and aligned well, nice job there! repro cowl hood and repro interior panels.

Fender emblem was installed way too low! If they drilled holes fender is screwed But rest of paint and body work looks well done. GM door sticker put in wrong place, you can just take them off.

Missing lower steering column cover, which means tabs in dash are broken (they can be glued back on).

Dash area looks pretty good, dash pad might need replacing, console looks to be repro, seats look good and might be original, no rips, but foam might be shot.

Seat belts are missing, expensive to get back, but if you are going with 3 point, then all good! Steering wheel looks to be repro. Hurst shifter is an aftermarket, not an original 69 version. Am radio is there, dash does not look cut, which is good!

moving under the car, floor is very undercoated, might mean it is hiding areas. Trunk might have had a patch, I see a seam, not sure why it is there.

Exterior color was 63 B, Champagne with black vinyl top, 711 black standard interior, 08E build (last week of aug 1969), vin is 124379N679586 which aligns well with the 08E date.

Champagne paint is the rarest of Camaro colors, only 0.5% of Camaros in 69 came in that color, around 1,215 cars out of 243,085! I like that color!

If they just did a little more research and painted it the original color it would be worth a whole bunch more $$, :sigh:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/supe...etallic-paint/

[qwikz28]

Kevin, you've taught me well because I noticed a few of those things (especially the fender emblems).

But, the wrong engine and color are fine by me like you say. Same with the steering column and seatbelts, both of those would be replaced in the upgrade phase.

There's no way I have the time these days to fly out to Ohio to see the car. Nor would I have any idea what I would be looking for. The undercoating worries me, to be honest, but the car looks like enough of a driver to feel like it should be good enough. Also, I would need get the car for below $35k for it to make sense with tax and shipping. Maybe I'll follow your advice and max the bid at $25k for now...

[KevinW]

Good luck! You should contact the seller and ask some serious questions about how the car drives, noises, clunks, etc, shipping and anything else you can think of. That will see if suspension has been sorted out and establish a dialog between you two. It will show if he is a serious seller and you are a serious buyer.

You do need to bid at least over $10,200 to get yourself on the board, don't go up to your max right away. You save that until your last bid 1 min before auction ends If you do not put a bid in, seller will not have as much incentive to discuss the car with you.

I just saw the BIN price of $39,500, like I said he is looking for mid $30s to recoup what he spent.

I think this auction will not meet the reserve, which will give you time to continue the dialog and maybe go out to see the car and negotiate the old fashioned way using the flaws to get the price where it needs to be.

[KevinW]

Here is a little game to play about 69 VIN tags. first is the VIN tag from the silver car auction. Then some random pic from google. Which ones are original and which ones have new sheet metal work?

[qwikz28]

WTF, was that just glued on?

Kevin, those are good ideas, but I'm going to still bid to put myself on the map. Cincinnati is about a 9 hour drive from me, so I'm thinking if I can negotiate and get more information over the course of the upcoming weeks, I'll actually be able to drive out there in a rented pickup, check it out, and tow it home if looks as good in person too.

Time to start asking questions and looking serious...

[qwikz28]

It looks like this guy might be a consignment dealer. Look at all the cars on his YouTube channel:

https://www.youtube.com/user/Stingraydog427/videos

[KevinW]

Wow, yes he is! time to find the real owner!

As to the Vins, the factory dash vin uses two 1/8" holes that rosette rivets hold the vin plate and a backer plate. When installed the vin is nicely centered in hole and the rounded corners of the vin plate match the cutout in the dash.

Repro dashes have a square hole without rounded corners and holes are not drilled in the right place. If you just mount up the vin without checking, you get offset vins.

I had to replace my dash and had the body guy weld up the repro holes and drill then in the correct place. I wish I would have had him weld/round the corners too :sigh:

[qwikz28]

I sent an email. We'll see. For some reason, he posts driving videos of other cars, but he didn't for this one. I'll ask him to do that when he responds.

The dealer definitely has a ton of positive feedback on eBay which puts me at ease a little. I'm thinking of seeing if there is a reputable shop around there that I could pay to inspect it for me.

[KevinW]

There are some negative feedback in with the positives, but it does appear he works with buyers.

[qwikz28]

This guy's email is as funny as his eBay descriptions:

The previous owner had it restored and the work done. Runs and drives great. No rattles or strange noises. Suspension is basically stock type stuff in good working order. With the new wheels and tires it will require an alignment. I’m trying to get it done on my end if I can get Scheduled in

It’s not heavily undercoated...it’s semi gloss black paint on the underside

Very nice car..very good car....the stuff works and it runs and drives excellent

I can sell outright if you are interested

Please let me know thanks Dan

[B4C]

https://poconos.craigslist.org/cto/d...736631131.html

[KevinW]

https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/196...749137917.html

Piscataway, pretty close by! $15,000

1969 Camaro Z28 (styling) - One owner since 1983, stored in garage since 1987. I have had this car since I was 16 and planned to restore it with my son when he was 16. It never happened and he is 22 now. Time to let someone else have the fun. Has not been driven since 1991.

Motor: 1970 350 LT1 (corvette motor)
Trans: Turbo 400 (with quicksilver shifter)
Rear: (411:1 and extra set of 488:1 gears in good condition)
Narrowed rear with Sommers Brothers Axles

Needs work and not a real Z of course, but maybe worth a look see!

[sweetbmxrider]

Its gone

[BonzoHansen]

It seemed really cheap just based on above info