Not this again. - Page 98 - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

LS1ow · 03-07-2020, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Bishop

To be honest, I always blue-locktite torque converter bolts on top of proper torque to avoid this sort of nonsense. There's a ton of vibration and torque on those particular bolts.

Will be using some when reinstall happens.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

Did it egg out the flexplate?

Going to opt for a new plate anyway, I would imagine it did so rather safe than sorry

LS1ow · 03-09-2020, 10:08 AM

Boy was that a disaster.

As stated in previous update, the solid trans mounts were NOT our friends here.

The 2 on the passenger side, near the starter were no problem.

Moved up to the next bolt, about 1 o'clock position, and turns out, nothing there. Was going off a pic of a 60e bell to remember bolt positioning, i could have swore there was a bolt there. but i guess not.

I know the 60e has 8 bolts that hold it it, i already got 2 out, and there was 6 remaining, so i assume this is normal and i just forgot? (fast forward to the end of the job, there was no paint missing from that bolt hole on the trans, so no bolt was ever put in at any point. The other holes that had bolts in them, all had paint removed from install & removal of bolts)

Moving on, The top center bolt was really not much of an issue, a little fighting with the swivel joint but thats it. some electricial tape on the joint and it was out in no time.

On to the bolt at the 10 o' clock spot, this was the first real pain. fought with it for a while, but with the solid engine mounts not allowing the trans to droop at all, it was a major pain. After fighting for about 30 mins, we ended up pulling the driver side coils and valve covers off. That gave my buddy enough room to reach down behind the head and guide the swivel on. Broke it loose with the ratched from the bottom, and he turned it out by hand from the top.

3 to go.

The one below the dowel on the driver side proved to be nearly as much of a pain as the previous, and prob the most frustrating. It was a clear as day shot at it, just to shallow of a space to fit anything. Couldnt get the socket with the swivel on. couldnt get the socket with the ratchet directly attached to it on. Got a box wrench on, but didnt have enough meat so it slid off. large flap of skin missing from my finger due to that btw.

Ended up using a larger pry bar to massage the inside of the trans tunnel enough to fit the extension and swivel on. broke her loose and we were on our way.

Pulled the final bottom 2 out with no theatrics. Trans slid off the motor no problem. quick flick of the wrist with the pry bar and we were on the transjack(thanks kirk)

cleaned up for the day and headed home. We will see what today brings.

KirkEvil · 03-09-2020, 02:12 PM

Sounds miserable. For those top bolts I always committed to pulling the intake right from the start and laying on top of the valley. You can pretty much reach everything from there with a box wrench.

How oveled are converter bolt holes in the flexplate?

LS1ow · 03-09-2020, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KirkEvil

Sounds miserable. For those top bolts I always committed to pulling the intake right from the start and laying on top of the valley. You can pretty much reach everything from there with a box wrench.

How oveled are converter bolt holes in the flexplate?

pulling intake may be how it goes back together. well see what the next few days entail.

Unsure of flex plate, going to see today. Worth dropping the coin for a better than stock unit??

KirkEvil · 03-09-2020, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1ow

pulling intake may be how it goes back together. well see what the next few days entail.

Unsure of flex plate, going to see today. Worth dropping the coin for a better than stock unit??

Worth your peace of mind, maybe

Knowing you have a shiny billet anodized orange reactor plate man candy in a place no one sees... Pricele... Actually still not worth it

wretched73 · 03-09-2020, 08:54 PM

On the truck forums, guys run 600+ WHP on stock flex plates. I would think you'd be fine.

Would a 60e and 80e flexplate be the same? I wouldn't want to buy a nice billet piece then find out when you upgrade the trans that you need a different flex plate

KirkEvil · 03-09-2020, 09:20 PM

60e flexplate only has 3 bolt holes for converter. 80e plate has 6 holes to use 3 or 6 bolt converters. Flexplate sizing and spacing is the same, fit difference is between the trans is made up by the converter housing

LS1ow · 03-10-2020, 08:45 AM

figured as much. i wasnt sure if getting a fancy flex plate would yield same results as getting a fancy flywheel on a stick.

will just opt for new gm unit

LS1ow · 03-16-2020, 01:37 PM

Does ARP offer Bellhousing to block bolts? I dont want to reuse the ICT billet ones i have.

KirkEvil · 03-16-2020, 03:16 PM

You can buy any bolt from them as a build your own kit off their website

MyFirstZ · 03-17-2020, 07:51 AM

When I pull my trans with the solid motor mounts i loosen the three subframe bolts and let it come down a little bit. I know I'm not auto but it helps tremendously. For me it also helps getting off the input shaft and clearing the clutchs

LS1ow · 03-18-2020, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyFirstZ

When I pull my trans with the solid motor mounts i loosen the three subframe bolts and let it come down a little bit. I know I'm not auto but it helps tremendously. For me it also helps getting off the input shaft and clearing the clutchs

in theory, i should be able to do this and not have it effect the alignment at all, right?

LTb1ow · 03-18-2020, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1ow

in theory, i should be able to do this and not have it effect the alignment at all, right?

In theory.

I just run the two side bolts on each side of my trans.

LS1ow · 03-18-2020, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

In theory.

I just run the two side bolts on each side of my trans.

nah i can deff get the bottom 2 in as well.

LS1ow · 03-18-2020, 03:05 PM

rear main from GM is here. Huzzah

LS1ow · 03-30-2020, 12:37 PM

All this crap going on kinda put a damper on my motivation to do this.

Long story short, i was looking at the little bit of trans fluid left in the bottom of the container that leaked everywhere, and noticed it was awfully metallic whenever the work light shined on it lol so a phone call was made.

After discussing a few options, coming up with a nice deal that involved a trans, greenbacks, a few hour ride, and some bootlegging(thanks for PA closing liquor stores) the day after the state of PA shut down, i headed out there and ended up with one of these.

Level 3 Invincible, good for 900hp

You have to remove the Bell and tailshaft housing to retain them and swap onto the new unit. This is also the answer to why i was looking for a T50 Torx Plus socket on IG and FB last week, about 70 people messaged me and said "ya i got it" and then sent me a pic of a regular Torx. Ended up just ordering a set from napa. Got them next day, did the job.

Will i ever use them again? hopefully not, but for anyone that needs them ever, Mick has. I went threw 2-3 torx bolts before calling GM to see what it is. Heres a pic of the difference.

Since i messed up a few Torx, i figured the bolts prob arent in the best shape to be reused. so i ordered a new set from GM, and these joints showed up...

What in the blue **** are those? They are "mortorq" bolts... and we are waiting for my snap on guy to get me a size 4. i guess GM decided a Torq Plus wasnt oddball enough, so we made the bolt head a pin wheel.

V · 03-30-2020, 02:56 PM

Just jam a 3/8 square drive in that bitch

LTb1ow · 03-30-2020, 05:29 PM

ohhhh yeaaa

LS1ow · 04-06-2020, 09:02 AM

Anyone know the torque specs for both the Bell housing to the trans as well as the tailshaft housing to the trans?

LS1ow · 04-13-2020, 01:55 PM

With crankcase ventilation being a potential issue, addressing the catch can situation was on the short list of things to do.

Rather than just run some Napa fuel hose as lines, i opted to spend some coin and up the quality. Opted for the -8an stuff off mighty mouses recommendation. Seems overkill, but whatever.

Ordered up some an bungs to weld on, some of then AN to pushlok fittings, and some pushlok hose.

On the passenger side i am cutting of the factory nipple and placing the bung there, on the driver side i will be drill into the valve cover and welding there.

LTb1ow · 04-13-2020, 08:10 PM

Did you buy a can?

LS1ow · 04-14-2020, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Did you buy a can?

ive had one, just upgrading the lines and location of the bung.

KirkEvil · 04-14-2020, 11:07 AM

Is there enough room between that fitting and injectors for an elbow?

LS1ow · 04-14-2020, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KirkEvil

Is there enough room between that fitting and injectors for an elbow?

Surprisingly i thought of this, but yes. barely

LS1ow · 04-15-2020, 09:20 AM

AN bungs added to valve covers

also deleted the second nipple on the pass side cover, and the nipple on rear of the driverside cover. Holes were pretty small, so they were just welded and welded until full, then smoothed.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iQBw5n]

and perhaps most importantly, added a bung for trans temp on the 60e.