GTA Project Begins...

[Paul Huryk]

As I posted the other day, picked up a really nice, low mileage, 99% original 1989 L98 GTA about a month ago.

After going over the car, taking notice that almost everything is original (it does have a hypertech chip, K&N and an aftermarket head unit), made up a list of things I want to do to bring the car into the 2010's in terms of performance.

I'm only going to do bolt-ons at this point - don't want to ruin the car at this point.


Engine:
SLP air foil and removed the screens of the MAF (done today)
March underdrive pulleys
Magnaflow y-pipe and 3.5" Mufflex cat back
Probably worth about 20hp and should sound a lot better
It's my first TPI car, so any suggestions are welcome!

Brakes:
It has the 12" rear PBR setup, so just a swap to Baer/LS1/C5 brakes - any kit fits under the CTW wheels

Wheels:
CTW Motorsports' wheels

Suspension:
Global West subframe connectors
Global West RCA
Global West Panhard
Global West front and rear springs
Global west tracklink (already have this)
Poly swaybar bushings and englinks
Global West wander bar
Koni SA struts & shocks
STB

Interior:
Just want to replace the factory 4"x6" dash speakers

Exterior:
Typical rear spoiler cracking, will replace

[1320B4U]

headers...dyno dons if your familiar w/them are the best for tpi/3rd gens.

[88WS-6]

Originally Posted by 1320B4U

headers...dyno dons if your familiar w/them are the best for tpi/3rd gens.

I agree with doing the headers, that will maximize the cat-back gains. Hooker 2055s are good too, but Dyno Don's are the best. Plugs and wires would be a good idea at the same time too.

How are the seats? You may want newer seat belts because all the original ones are always shot and don't retract or lock like they should.

What about tires? I'm assuming the ones you have are in good condition, but what size are you running with the CTWs? 275 40s right?

As far as the TPI goes, the Firebird factory intake always left a lot to be desired. Camaros utilized air from in front of the radiator, but the Firebird set up just ends in that pocket behind the headlight. There is a really cheap e-bay intake ($60?) that makes a pretty good difference. I could try to find the link if you'd like.

Are you ever going to autocross it? If you do you should double check some rules before a few of the mods, especially sub frame connectors. Any support perpendicular to the frame rails or connecting a rail to another suspension piece will usually bump you into highly modified classes.

I think that's all I got for now.

[greenformula92]

Originally Posted by 88WS-6

I agree with doing the headers, that will maximize the cat-back gains. Hooker 2055s are good too, but Dyno Don's are the best. Plugs and wires would be a good idea at the same time too.

How are the seats? You may want newer seat belts because all the original ones are always shot and don't retract or lock like they should.

What about tires? I'm assuming the ones you have are in good condition, but what size are you running with the CTWs? 275 40s right?

As far as the TPI goes, the Firebird factory intake always left a lot to be desired. Camaros utilized air from in front of the radiator, but the Firebird set up just ends in that pocket behind the headlight. There is a really cheap e-bay intake ($60?) that makes a pretty good difference. I could try to find the link if you'd like.

Are you ever going to autocross it? If you do you should double check some rules before a few of the mods, especially sub frame connectors. Any support perpendicular to the frame rails or connecting a rail to another suspension piece will usually bump you into highly modified classes.

I think that's all I got for now.

Yeah I have the hookers on mine. Little bit of a pain with all the emissions stuff on them

[Paul Huryk]

Originally Posted by 1320B4U

headers...dyno dons if your familiar w/them are the best for tpi/3rd gens.

Thinking of doing headers, but I don't want to spend 20+ hours pulling off the new manifolds and putting headers in (I'm being lazy). So I picked up the magnaflow y-pipe and will use that along with the 3.5" mufflex cat-back. I am going to get a set of Dyno Don's to replace the 18 year old Arizona speed headers on my Camaro, along with a bigger motor (383 or 396).

The seats and seat belts are in rediculously good shape - no reason to think about changing them.

The original wheels are in almost perfect shape - no scrapes or dings. The tires the previous owner had on it are Cooper Xenon all seasons, which ride like marshmallows and handle like a wet noodle. I stuck a set of black CTW wheels with 275-40-17 Conti Extreme DW tires on it - rediculous improvement in handling and it rides firm (but not harsh) with a dead stock suspension.

Matt - the previous owner put in a K&N filter, and I pulled the MAF screens and put in a SLP airfoil yesterday. I certainly would like the change the intake setup for a better cold air system - too bad SLP CAI are very hard to find now. If you find the link, send it my way please. You are 5 minutes away from me - why don't you stop by some time?

I don't think I'm going to autocross the car - going to be a street ride. I find it amusing with the rules governing subframe connectors push a car into the heavily modified class when newer cars have them engineered in from the factory...

[88WS-6]

Everything sounds good then.

Originally Posted by Paul Huryk

Matt - the previous owner put in a K&N filter, and I pulled the MAF screens and put in a SLP airfoil yesterday. I certainly would like the change the intake setup for a better cold air system - too bad SLP CAI are very hard to find now. If you find the link, send it my way please. You are 5 minutes away from me - why don't you stop by some time?

Old link, but they sell these all over ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-88-1989-...item1e6894d4e9


I've been busy, but if I get a chance I'll stop by. I'd like to check out the GTA and the CTWs.

[greenformula92]

It didn't take 20 hours lol. It is definatly a 5 or 6 hour job and then if your doing the rest of the echaust too you have to factor that in