Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Calendar
Go Back   NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Camaros, Firebirds and the People that own them > Member's Projects

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-24-2017, 04:49 PM   #1
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Question 79 Camaro block terminal question

Hi everyone -
I inherited my brothers 79 Camaro Berlinatta recently after 10 years sitting in his garage.
He never got to finish the work he started and it’s now a tribute project to him. We started by checking if the engine could be hand cranked after oiling each cylinder and letting it sit for a week. It turned fine. Next we got a new battery to replace the one that made a big mess in the engine bay. Cleaning the surface rust is the least of the problems. The starter ended up being bad so we started changing the braking system. After removing the booster assembly we found a Terminal block just to the right of the booster for the engine harness. (Fig.1) http://www.njfboa.org/forums/attachm...1&d=1508881686
Each terminal has some black semi-malleable crud on it. My question is, can this be cleaned off and then sealed with a good silicone? The wiring is in good shape but it will be tested before the new engine goes in.
Your help is much appreciated.
Thanks….
- Rich
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bloktermnl3.jpg (19.8 KB, 29 views)
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2017, 04:57 PM   #2
The_Bishop
 
The_Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,643
iTrader: (3)
Looks like it has undercoating or sound deadener sprayed on it. Might be a bear to clean off.
__________________
1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6 View Post
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
The_Bishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2017, 06:58 PM   #3
PolarBear
Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
 
PolarBear's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
iTrader: (16)
Looks like the grease they put in from the factory, it's all dry and hard now. I wouldn't bother trying to clean it off
PolarBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2017, 07:57 PM   #4
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
iTrader: (27)
that's factory goop, leave it alone.

Welcome! where are you located?
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2017, 09:33 PM   #5
TaKid455
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 586
iTrader: (1)
Inside is electric grease and exterior is a petroleum base sealant. Leave it. Its all there to prevent corrosion and water/ moisture leakage. You can clean the wires with carb cleaner along with the terminals. Reapply electric grease and carry on.

Last edited by TaKid455; 10-24-2017 at 09:33 PM.
TaKid455 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2017, 10:47 AM   #6
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Thanks for the reply's...
I thought it was something like that. It's kind of brittle now and I was thinking to clean it up. can I put the new grease right over the old? And maybe make a plastic cover for it. Just looks so ugly.
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2017, 10:48 AM   #7
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
I'm in Stanhope.
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2017, 11:30 AM   #8
IROCZman15
10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,116
iTrader: (8)
nice ! awesome project, especially as a tribute project. !
I am over in Roxbury. There are a few of us in this area. Larry (TAKid455) is just down the road in Hackettstown, and he knows 2nd gens really well.
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified

IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2017, 01:19 PM   #9
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
iTrader: (27)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franksride View Post
Thanks for the reply's...
I thought it was something like that. It's kind of brittle now and I was thinking to clean it up. can I put the new grease right over the old? And maybe make a plastic cover for it. Just looks so ugly.
I'd leave it alone unless you are redoing everything under the hood. You really can't see it once everything is together
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2017, 07:26 AM   #10
TaKid455
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 586
iTrader: (1)
Clean off old grease before applying new grease or , if it works as is, leave it.

I do have some camaro parts if you need stuff.

And welcome neighbor!
TaKid455 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2017, 01:16 PM   #11
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Thanks 4 the help

I cleaned it up with contact cleaner and I'll leave it at that for now.
Doing a complete brake job before I do any thing else.
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2017, 01:20 PM   #12
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
I'll probably need some advice soon. The last complete build I did was on a 69 GTO back in the 80's. This project brings back some great memories.
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2017, 01:22 PM   #13
PolarBear
Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
 
PolarBear's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
iTrader: (16)
What kind of advice?
PolarBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2017, 01:59 PM   #14
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Almost ready to pull engine

All that's left to do is to cut the rusted exhaust bolt flanges. Gonna try the dremel since it's smaller. If not the 3" angle grinder is next. I'm hoping I can start the complete break line install by next week after we pull the engine out. Lots of de-greaser and elbow grease to remove all the sludge. After the break lines are in I need to figure out where the cut outs for the new clutch pedal go. We're swapping the the 305 and TH350 with a new 4 bolt and 5 speed manual. Gonna be a while before this thing runs. Another work stopper is the rear. It's a 2.41 posi and I'm researching changing the the gears to 2.73's since I'm told they are compatible with a series 2 carrier.

Last edited by Franksride; 12-03-2017 at 02:02 PM.
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2017, 05:07 PM   #15
TaKid455
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 586
iTrader: (1)
You will need a spacer to do such. You can run up to 4.11 with such. You will also need longer bolts.

Regarding stories of spacers, when installed properly,, they are fine. I've run them an a few applications with big torque.

There should be an indention on the firewall for the clutch rod. Everything else bolts on.
TaKid455 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2017, 05:42 PM   #16
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Hey guys this is Danny (his son). I’m gonna be posting for a bit cuz my dads feeling a little under the weather and I’m gonna be taking over the project for a bit. At this point we have torn the engine out completely. The tranny is ready to come out but I ran into a problem. I’m trying to drop the drive shaft but it seems that it does not want to come out. I took out all four bolts out of the yolk and the drive shaft will not drop from the rear. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and hopefully it can be done tommorow. The tranny is a turbo 350. Due to the limited space in my garage we had to do a two part drive train pull.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 305EDF7A-E7FA-4363-918E-BD5250E2D89C.jpg (41.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 220240F0-4EC5-479D-BA87-F1BD3EB10F94.jpg (26.1 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 38B60B31-10F7-4F75-9A7A-A16CB2791AEC.jpg (42.4 KB, 12 views)
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2017, 07:24 PM   #17
deadtrend1
11 second club / Moderator
 
deadtrend1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
iTrader: (11)
Get a small prybar behind there and try and wiggle the ujoint out. Its common for the caps to rust into place. Be careful not to loose the needle bearings, unless youre replacing the joint anyways...
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57

1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85

Last edited by deadtrend1; 12-19-2017 at 07:24 PM.
deadtrend1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2017, 02:32 PM   #18
LS1ow
Power Member / trans break does not equal transbrake
 
LS1ow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Meadowlands
Posts: 4,513
iTrader: (15)
Social Networks:

Pop a small prybar or a large screwdriver if thats all you got behind there and have it at.
__________________
99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
LS1ow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 04:41 PM   #19
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Thanks 4 the advice

It worked. dropped the back but now we spent an hour trying to pull it out of the th350. Some say bang the hell out of it but I'm don't wanna damage anything since it's going in another car. Never had this happen even on my old pontiacs. The all just pulled out of the trans nice and easy. Any suggestions.
Thanks.
Rich
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 05:55 PM   #20
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
iTrader: (27)
getting the trans out?
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 07:41 PM   #21
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
getting the trans out?
I’m trying to pull the drive shaft out of the transmission. I dropped it from the rear with no problems but it’s stuck in the transmission at this point. Any suggestions? Isn’t supposed to slide right out? Thanks!
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 08:10 PM   #22
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
iTrader: (27)
Yes it should slip out. I can't remember that happening to me. Maybe a punch and light taps with a hammer on the yoke.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop

Last edited by BonzoHansen; 12-21-2017 at 08:11 PM.
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 08:39 PM   #23
Franksride
 
Franksride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
Yeah I tried that. I tried unbolting the tail of the tranny (4 volts) and she ain’t budging.
Franksride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 12:42 PM   #24
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
iTrader: (12)
That won't help. Probably twisted the splines. Maybe its rusted real bad which isn't good either. Try some penetrating oil between the yoke and tail shaft.
__________________
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 12:44 PM   #25
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,152
iTrader: (27)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider View Post
That won't help. Probably twisted the splines. Maybe its rusted real bad which isn't good either. Try some penetrating oil between the yoke and tail shaft.
Time for overdrive! (looking for the bright spot!)
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Camaros, Firebirds and the People that own them > Member's Projects


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Sponsor List














All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.