Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Calendar
Go Back   NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Tech Forums > Brake, Chassis and Suspension Tech

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 09-24-2017, 02:40 AM   #1
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
best way to bleed rear brakes

I just replaced all my hoses and metal lines along with the master. I bled the abs unit and i get fluid out of the front calipers but not the rears. Ive read the abs needs to activate. Others say use a scanner, gravity bleed or stop hard on a gravel roadway or even hit the brakes as the car is on jack stands or even bang on the sensor at the rear wheels or unplug the battery and abs electrical connections then bleed. I dont have that type of scanner unless a store loans them out. Which way should I go about doing this.
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 07:33 AM   #2
deadtrend1
11 second club / Moderator
 
deadtrend1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
iTrader: (11)
Old school style. Have someone pump the pedal with slow full pumps. Third pump they hold, you crack open the bleeder and close it. Repeat. If you get nothing, pull the bleeder out completely and make sure its not clogged
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57

1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
deadtrend1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 09:05 AM   #3
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
iTrader: (12)
Yup, exactly what Tim said has always worked for me. Very rarely do you have to bleed the abs unit.
__________________
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 10:23 AM   #4
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
Hmm that's what I was doing........
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 05:13 PM   #5
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
Looks l the fitting for the main front to rear at the valve is the wrong size length wise. It's abut 1/8 shorter than the original and does not hold the flare flush and tight. What a pita. How hard would it be if I cut the new fitting off and add the old correct fitting. I'm worried about trying to double flare stainless
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 05:15 PM   #6
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
Here is the old vs new fitting.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170923_131428.jpg (95.7 KB, 25 views)
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 06:39 PM   #7
6spdg37s
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 692
iTrader: (0)
never had to bleed the module done tons of GM cars /trucks (the brake lines rot out )lol
6spdg37s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 07:50 PM   #8
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
iTrader: (12)
So when the fitting is tight, does the line have play in it? And the stainless has a bubble flare as well? If it were leaking, you should have fluid coming out there. You didn't say either way, just curious. You could even take the rear feed line off and bleed with your finger at the module like you would a master. If you still don't have fluid/pressure, try at the feed line into the module. Nothing there, bleed the master. Fun times! Let us know how you make out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdg37s View Post
never had to bleed the module done tons of GM cars /trucks (the brake lines rot out )lol
It depends, I've done many complete systems on gmt-800's and have had to bleed the abs module sometimes. Other platforms as well, never an f-body personally.
__________________
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 10:41 PM   #9
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
Yes when the fitting is tight the line has play in it. I looked closer as my friend pumped the pedal and I can see fluid and air pushing and pulling. Im going to call the Co. who made them in the morning
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2017, 11:09 PM   #10
Featherburner
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,676
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cycomiko View Post
Yes when the fitting is tight the line has play in it. I looked closer as my friend pumped the pedal and I can see fluid and air pushing and pulling. Im going to call the Co. who made them in the morning
Where did you get the lines?
__________________
John
Featherburner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2017, 08:24 AM   #11
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
iTrader: (12)
If you can get your hands on a hydraulic flaring tool, I'd cut the flares and reuse the old fitting.
__________________
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2017, 10:43 AM   #12
WildBillyT
Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
 
WildBillyT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
iTrader: (10)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider View Post
If you can get your hands on a hydraulic flaring tool, I'd cut the flares and reuse the old fitting.
Yeah, that would be rough to do with a manual flaring tool.
WildBillyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2017, 03:09 PM   #13
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
Classic tube made them. They wanted me to cut the original fitting and send it to them and they would add it to a new line. I matched one up from the parts store and sent it to them.
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2017, 09:49 AM   #14
JL8Jeff
Hippy Mod, Bergermeister Meisterberger, Moderator
 
JL8Jeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ewing
Posts: 6,213
iTrader: (3)
On my 2001 Silverado I replaced the brake lines with stainless lines and it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping. This seems to be common with stainless lines. But I tried doing the quick stop on a gravel road (and rebleeding multiple times) to work the air through the ABS and could never fully get rid of it so you might need to go to a shop that has the equipment to allow bleeding through the ABS. I wouldn't wait until an emergency situation to find out one side has air and the other doesn't, you could end up in a spin.
__________________
69 Z28 JL8 4 wheel disc brakes - being restored
09 Silverado Z71
JL8Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2017, 09:53 AM   #15
PolarBear
Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
 
PolarBear's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
iTrader: (16)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff View Post
it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping.
I've found that you need to tighten and loosen 6-8 times when you first install them and they will finally seat and not leak after the initial install. I've done it that way on 5 cars now and no leaks

Last edited by PolarBear; 09-30-2017 at 09:53 AM.
PolarBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2017, 11:04 AM   #16
Featherburner
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,676
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff View Post
On my 2001 Silverado I replaced the brake lines with stainless lines and it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping. This seems to be common with stainless lines. But I tried doing the quick stop on a gravel road (and rebleeding multiple times) to work the air through the ABS and could never fully get rid of it so you might need to go to a shop that has the equipment to allow bleeding through the ABS. I wouldn't wait until an emergency situation to find out one side has air and the other doesn't, you could end up in a spin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarBear View Post
I've found that you need to tighten and loosen 6-8 times when you first install them and they will finally seat and not leak after the initial install. I've done it that way on 5 cars now and no leaks
You could also buy some copper flare washers for the, particularly tough ones.
https://www.grainger.com/product/5WRW0?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166 588641592!!!!82128342357!&ef_id=Vh7mqgAABOsDfonE:2 0170930150158:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588641592-device^c-plaid^82128342357-sku^5WRW0-adType^PLA
__________________
John
Featherburner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2017, 11:46 AM   #17
PolarBear
Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips
 
PolarBear's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hamilton, Mercer county
Posts: 4,141
iTrader: (16)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Featherburner View Post
You could also buy some copper flare washers for the, particularly tough ones.
https://www.grainger.com/product/5WRW0?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166 588641592!!!!82128342357!&ef_id=Vh7mqgAABOsDfonE:2 0170930150158:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588641592-device^c-plaid^82128342357-sku^5WRW0-adType^PLA
Never seen those before. Would probably be a b*tch to put in out of position, but there's no need for them with the stainless
PolarBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2017, 08:05 AM   #18
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
An update. The new line is in and is nice and snug but I still can't get fluid to the rear. I've tried everything gravity vacuum etc. It was killing me then I decided to check the two fittings on the master and wallah the front bore fitting is not pushing fluid and the master is weeping behind it also. Is it a defective unit? Did I not bleed all the air out? Is it toast? Should I try to bleed it or just put the old one back on and return it. The old one was fine......
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2017, 08:50 AM   #19
WildBillyT
Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
 
WildBillyT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
iTrader: (10)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cycomiko View Post
An update. The new line is in and is nice and snug but I still can't get fluid to the rear. I've tried everything gravity vacuum etc. It was killing me then I decided to check the two fittings on the master and wallah the front bore fitting is not pushing fluid and the master is weeping behind it also. Is it a defective unit? Did I not bleed all the air out? Is it toast? Should I try to bleed it or just put the old one back on and return it. The old one was fine......
You are talking about a leak between the booster and master, correct? If so, I believe a seal in the master is bad.
WildBillyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2017, 09:23 AM   #20
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
iTrader: (12)
I'd put the old one back on if the new one is leaking between the booster and master. As for there being no fluid coming out, it could be some trapped air, not fully engaging the master, or a defective unit.
__________________
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2017, 09:38 AM   #21
JL8Jeff
Hippy Mod, Bergermeister Meisterberger, Moderator
 
JL8Jeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ewing
Posts: 6,213
iTrader: (3)
Did you bench bleed it first? Sometimes air gets stuck if you don't bench bleed it. I have one of those bleeder kits and you can watch the fluid go through the clear lines and see if there are tiny air bubbles or if the front is pushing fluid and the rear isn't. I remember having to really push the pedal all the way on one of my vehicles to get the rear fluid moving.
__________________
69 Z28 JL8 4 wheel disc brakes - being restored
09 Silverado Z71
JL8Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2017, 10:49 PM   #22
cycomiko
 
cycomiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sicklerville,NJ
Posts: 143
iTrader: (0)
Ok Finally! I installed the old still working master and all is ok. The new master kit did not come with a bleeder kit just the screw in plugs and we bled it on the car with the plugs in and didnt see any bubbles. I even bought a universal bleed kit and the fittings dont fit. Lol This car fought me to the end on this job. No problems with the abs either. Thanks Guys.....
cycomiko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2017, 11:33 AM   #23
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,342
iTrader: (12)
I usually just stick it in a vise, one guy pushes the plunger with a screwdriver and the other guy holds two cups to catch fluid and puts fingers over holes before the plunger is released. It has never given me an issue. Glad you got it sorted though!
__________________
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Tech Forums > Brake, Chassis and Suspension Tech


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Sponsor List














All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.