transmission install shops? - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

IROCdan330 · 06-02-2005, 04:07 PM

I've got a place to build me the trans, but they don't do install, and school will be over in 2 weeks which will be the length of time for the trans to be built. So, I'm looking for a shop that will drop my 700, and put the new one in and everything, for relatively a small amount of money. thanks.

Tru2Chevy · 06-02-2005, 07:06 PM

Driveway?

That's where I did mine.....

- Justin

IROCdan330 · 06-02-2005, 07:13 PM

i dont gots the tools/space in my driveway...ask Jon, he knows

would one of you guys want to volunteer by chance?

Fasterthanyou · 06-02-2005, 09:41 PM

It certainly isn't an easy job when the engine bay is as busy as yours. Getting to the upper bolts is a royal PITA. I'd find a local reputable shop that has old technitians. The older guys are more likely to do it right without breaking anything.

IROCdan330 · 06-03-2005, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fasterthanyou

It certainly isn't an easy job when the engine bay is as busy as yours. Getting to the upper bolts is a royal PITA. I'd find a local reputable shop that has old technitians. The older guys are more likely to do it right without breaking anything.

blah...3 foot extension, 14 mm flex socket...and a 3/8" drive air ratchet got the bolts out for me in 10 minutes. I was told by a local shop that itd be 300 bucks at the most looking at a 5-6 hour job. I think itd be less. Beings...4 bolts for driveshaft, 4 bolts for torque arm (2 in reality but to loosen the hanger)...what is it 3 bolts for the cross member, 4 10mm for the little plastic cover deal...3 bolts for the torque converter to flexplate...and the 6 or 7 bolts for the bellhousing. Getting the dipstick/TV cable down through there might be a pain though.

Fasterthanyou · 06-03-2005, 07:39 PM

You're forgetting the trans cooling lines. The trans itself is rather heavy. Getting the trans seperated from the engine will require you to have some ability to pull the trans straight back AND stabalize the engine. You'll need some way of preventing the engine from falling into your radiator! So when it's all said and done it can be a PITA. I'm impressed you got to the 2 upper bolts on the bellhousing without an issue.

badzracing · 06-03-2005, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fasterthanyou

You're forgetting the trans cooling lines. The trans itself is rather heavy. Getting the trans seperated from the engine will require you to have some ability to pull the trans straight back AND stabalize the engine. You'll need some way of preventing the engine from falling into your radiator! So when it's all said and done it can be a PITA. I'm impressed you got to the 2 upper bolts on the bellhousing without an issue.

Yeah...it sounds pretty easy on paper, but in reality, it is a PITA.

IROCdan330 · 06-04-2005, 09:12 AM

the trans cooler lines are sooo easy now. beings we thought it was retarded to have to try and disconnect them with the trans in the tunnel before dropping it...we cut them midway, flared them, and unioned them. Actually...one is running from the transcooler so its a hose with a hose clamp...the other one is a flare/nut. But yea you are right Jon about the whole engine tilting thing...my engine likes to tilt back however...when we dropped it in and the trans wasnt in yet, we had to put a block of wood between the oil pan and the k member. otherwise it titled backwards just a tad. and with regards to the upper bolts...its sooo much easier when its on a lift.