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Old 02-18-2009, 08:02 PM   #1
LTb1ow
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Block Assembly

Just want to get a few quotes for a future project. How much to balance a rotating assembly and assemble the shortblock? No machining just installing the crank, rods and pistons into the block.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:16 PM   #2
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Just want to get a few quotes for a future project. How much to balance a rotating assembly and assemble the shortblock? No machining just installing the crank, rods and pistons into the block.
bottom end assy. consisting of the following, setting crank end play, filing rings, de-burring pistons, putting pistons on the rods (bushed not pressed) , will be around 500$
machine the rods for a stroker for cam clearance not included (some engines will require this mod)
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:18 PM   #3
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500 does not include balancing?

And its just freshening up the LT1, reusing stock crank. So hopefully no clearance for rods will be needed.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:19 PM   #4
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500 does not include balancing?

And its just freshening up the LT1, reusing stock crank. So hopefully no clearance for rods will be needed.
stock crank, new pistons and rods? and if so what brand, and type.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:26 PM   #5
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Yes. Forged pistons, maybe H rods.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:31 PM   #6
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balancing pricing i can have for tomorrow. ill give u a total on balancing and assembly.
any reason why u want an h beam rod, and want to use the stock crank? what type of power level are u building this for? any power adder?
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:33 PM   #7
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Well I want to redo the bottom end to feel safe spinning it past 6200. I have a 100-150 shot waiting to go on and I may get a small turbo kit for it depending on a few things.

A lot of people typically do a 355 and reuse the stock crank but I want to do this as budget minded as possible without cutting corners.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:42 PM   #8
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have the crank journals been checked? block machined or are u going std. bore?
just so u know u can use an i beam rod and save some $ there, the reason i say this is, u are going to use a stock crank that can only support around 500hp and i beams can support up to 600hp. a stock block and crank are usually only good for up 2- 500hp, unless u have one of few that sonic check well and u can get away with 600hp. i put 450 passes on eagle sir rods and cast eagle crank and never had an issue. also when i freshened the engine i re-used the crank. u can ask melissa that engine went round after round after round. i made 19 passes at a rental @ island and i got there late!
all my runs were 10 second runs so it wasnt nursed.. my point is if u dont have to spend x-tra $ dont.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:44 PM   #9
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350. So I guess std. bore?
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:46 PM   #10
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millage on engine?
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:47 PM   #11
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70k. Still had cross hatching when I pulled the heads over the winter.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:50 PM   #12
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are u gonna have anything checked?

mic.cylinder bore
measure crank journals
sonic check
check block decks
install new cam bearings
etc..etc..
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:50 PM   #13
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That was the plan.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:52 PM   #14
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hate to be a nag, these are just things that need to be addressed so u dont build a grenade
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:55 PM   #15
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Which is why I want someone who has done a few builds, assemble mine. I don't mind the questions.

Basically whats a good price range to get the bottom end prepped, and assembled?
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:02 PM   #16
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im going to get a pricing sheet together for u, and ill email it or pm to u as soon as it is composed. prob by tomorrow night. if thats ok wit ya
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:03 PM   #17
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Sounds great man!

I will PM you my email.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:04 PM   #18
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okie dokie
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